Stoenr

Looking for some input on what I should aim for on my camber settings.
Prokit, Dspecs, Bumpsteer kit going in tomorrow.

I have camber bolts on hand if need be, which I think they will be needed with the prokit.

Its a daily driver besides in the winter time, and I do a road course event or 2 a year.
Spirited driving always. I drive it like its stolen, and 1/2 the L.A.P.D. is behind me.
ok, thats a little far fetched, but you get the idea.

Where should I aim my camber to be?
Tires cannot be rotated front to back, only side to side, so this wont help much in wear.
Tire wear not a major concern for me since I get them at cost and install myself.
But I dont want to burn them up in one summer either, maybe 2

F1Fan? Norm?

jayel579

For track purposes you'll want at least -2 to -2.5 degrees camber with your tow at zero to 1/8" outward. Stock caster is at 7 degrees and that is plenty. These are all pending on how you want the car to feel. What you gain in one place you give back in another. It all depends on how you want the car setup.

These are strictly track settings you are not going to want them for the street. For the street your going to want about -1 degree camber with your tow 1/8" inward. You might be able to get away with -1.5 camber for the street but your going to have to rotate your tires often. I am experimenting with all of these settings myself this summer.

Stoenr

Need that happy medium as I will not be re-aligning it before and after track days.
Again, tire wear not a big deal, So I think I may go with the -1.5.
Still waiting more input

glgorman

I do a few track days and allot of autocross events and my camber is set a 1.5, keep in mind I run steeda comp spring so my car is probly stiffer than yours will be,I really cant see any tire wear problems. 1.3 is max from the factory form what I can remember, I'm thinking of going up to 2 and I don’t for see any issue, when I raced proto type cars we ran 3 to 3.5 degrees on the front, I know some people how ran older mustangs with almost 10 degreescamber.

Here is a little info on why you adjust camber.

You adjust the camber so the tire is exactly perpendicular to the road under corning load. You do this buy running acpoule hard laps then taking tire temps along the face of the tire and adjusting accordingly. the last proto type I ran had infer red sensors mounted on the body that read tire temps and recorded them in the data acquisition system.

For you,

If you are not goingto replace the sway bars, I would swoop out your suspension and before doing the alignment I would drive it around a couple corners to see what kind of body roll you have. If it’s really flat I would do 1.5 degrees but if it still rolls a bit I would say you could go up to 2 degrees and still have no problems.

Stoenr

Thanks for the input. Its done.
I will have to live with it


1.3-1.4 numbers kept bouncing back and forth on the left side camber

I wanted a little less on the left side to make it a tad more street friendly for road crown.

She drove straight as an arrrow with the steering wheel straight also.

Norm Peterson

Looks pretty good as long as you're not going to swap between two different sets of specs (I used to with a front-steer G-body). You might want to try for just a hair less toe - I think that converts to almost 1/16" total and I usually work my butt off shooting for 1/32" total using parallel strings.

MacStrut suspensions seem to tolerate static negative camber better than SLA's, at least if you consistently corner hard. I should look at the tires on my EP Mazda 626 (struts) which has been running beyond -2.5° camber for a while now, maybe there's something showing up there that you might find useful.


Norm

Stoenr

Thanks Norm. I cannot imagine doing this by strings, lol.

Sam Strano

Not all cars are the same. Some have better camber curves (gain or loss of camber due to body roll) than others. Negative camber is to maximize your contact patch under full cornering load. Too much is as bad as too little, actually it's worse because you sacrifice braking power and make the car more darty.

Really being one of the very few competing and winning in the S197 as well as having done so in older Mustangs let me tell you that the "old" wisdom (which was at times more than suspect) isn't really helpful on this car. This car is much more BMW in front, GM F-body in the rear than is it any previous Mustang.

And yes, while all out race cars might run a ton of camber they also don't have things to worry about like tire wear. Though at times they do blow tires because they weren't worn well (particularly in NASCAR). And anyone running anything like -10 degrees (I hope that not true) needs slapped.

Stoenr

Does the camber I have went with seem ok to you for the S197?

Sam Strano

Ok? It's ok. Not what enough for real track/autox use if you are looking for the best grip and tire wear.An okcompromise for the street.