TIRES/wheels????
Hey guys, im looking for a set of tires for the track. I have the stock 18's bullits w/ kumho 245/50/18 tires on them.
I'm thinking of getting a set of 17 bullit tires, not sure if i should get 17 x 8 or 17 x 9???
So should i get a pair of 17 for the rear w/ some dr for the track?
whats a good tire size for 17 to go w/ my 18's up front?
Is their a tire i can just slap on for the summer that has some kind of dr compound but also can be driven in the rain? Even though im not planning on doing any autocross, i still like to have some kind of side wall.
I pretty much want a everything TIRE. lol, that be great. A all weather dr tire... Pretty much im pulling 1.9s 60ft on my kumho street tires w/ my pretty much stock gt (catback) and im looking for 1.8's 60ft.
what do you guys think?
I'm thinking of getting a set of 17 bullit tires, not sure if i should get 17 x 8 or 17 x 9???
So should i get a pair of 17 for the rear w/ some dr for the track?
whats a good tire size for 17 to go w/ my 18's up front?
Is their a tire i can just slap on for the summer that has some kind of dr compound but also can be driven in the rain? Even though im not planning on doing any autocross, i still like to have some kind of side wall.
I pretty much want a everything TIRE. lol, that be great. A all weather dr tire... Pretty much im pulling 1.9s 60ft on my kumho street tires w/ my pretty much stock gt (catback) and im looking for 1.8's 60ft.
what do you guys think?
MT ET Street Radials. Ive ordered some with stock 17x8 rims. I got 275/40 out back. Left stock pirellis up front. For track use only. If your pulling 1.9s with stock, you should easily get 1.8's with some DRs
ORIGINAL: whtcanbrwnd04u
MT ET Street Radials. Ive ordered some with stock 17x8 rims. I got 275/40 out back. Left stock pirellis up front. For track use only. If your pulling 1.9s with stock, you should easily get 1.8's with some DRs
MT ET Street Radials. Ive ordered some with stock 17x8 rims. I got 275/40 out back. Left stock pirellis up front. For track use only. If your pulling 1.9s with stock, you should easily get 1.8's with some DRs
Ya; i just wana pull some 1.8 60's. But im not sure if their a tire that i can drive to the track and do that and still drive it around town in the rain, etc(nitto?). I all ready know a guy on here that smashed his GT in the rain cuz of his DR'S. I also believe they were MT.
One more question, will my stock 245/50/18 up front work ok w/ 275/40/17 out back?
275/40's want to be on (at least) 9" wide rims (you probably get a little better grip on 9's vs 8's as a side benefit). Are you sure about 245/50-18's? The OE size is 235/50-18. Understand that the 275/40-17 is 1.3" shorter than the 235/50-18 and 2" shorter than a 245/50-18 if that's what you really do have. Physically, it'll work, but I'll avoid commenting on the likely appearance.
Anyway . . . . Save the DR's for the track.
For at least two reasons. The obvious one you already know about.
And the other is that if you waste all the DR's heat cycles doing street driving, they won't be as good at the track. Tires do not remain at constant "stickiness" over the full life of the tread. Some tires lose more and lose it fasterthan others, but all tires lose grip with time and use. Put this little scrap of information away and let the guys in similar cars who think it's cool to drive around on their race tires wonder why they keep losing to you.
Norm
Anyway . . . . Save the DR's for the track.
For at least two reasons. The obvious one you already know about.
And the other is that if you waste all the DR's heat cycles doing street driving, they won't be as good at the track. Tires do not remain at constant "stickiness" over the full life of the tread. Some tires lose more and lose it fasterthan others, but all tires lose grip with time and use. Put this little scrap of information away and let the guys in similar cars who think it's cool to drive around on their race tires wonder why they keep losing to you.
Norm
Drag radials SUCK. Drag radials are the reason i'm not married - a dirty little word we call COMPROMISE. The thought of a 40 series, radial tire for drag racing amuzes me. I know, I know, Joe Blow NMRA runs them in the 10.5 Pure Street whatever class with the back-halved cars and goes 9.20's. Guess why - because the car is back-halved and on a 8" converter with a brake. It's not the tires I promise.
Norm is spot-on.Heat cycling of ANY tire hardens it, making it less effective.
The best bet is to get REAL slicks, and put them on at the track. You will go faster, and they will last longer, making them both cheaper and better performing. I guarantee a 26x8 slick will do you better than a 10.5 drag radial. Aww no back seat? Small price to pay for faster runs and a perfect excuse for not having to haul other people around.
Norm is spot-on.Heat cycling of ANY tire hardens it, making it less effective.
The best bet is to get REAL slicks, and put them on at the track. You will go faster, and they will last longer, making them both cheaper and better performing. I guarantee a 26x8 slick will do you better than a 10.5 drag radial. Aww no back seat? Small price to pay for faster runs and a perfect excuse for not having to haul other people around.
ORIGINAL: RodeoFlyer
Drag radials SUCK. Drag radials are the reason i'm not married - a dirty little word we call COMPROMISE. The thought of a 40 series, radial tire for drag racing amuzes me. I know, I know, Joe Blow NMRA runs them in the 10.5 Pure Street whatever class with the back-halved cars and goes 9.20's. Guess why - because the car is back-halved and on a 8" converter with a brake. It's not the tires I promise.
Norm is spot-on.Heat cycling of ANY tire hardens it, making it less effective.
The best bet is to get REAL slicks, and put them on at the track. You will go faster, and they will last longer, making them both cheaper and better performing. I guarantee a 26x8 slick will do you better than a 10.5 drag radial. Aww no back seat? Small price to pay for faster runs and a perfect excuse for not having to haul other people around.
Drag radials SUCK. Drag radials are the reason i'm not married - a dirty little word we call COMPROMISE. The thought of a 40 series, radial tire for drag racing amuzes me. I know, I know, Joe Blow NMRA runs them in the 10.5 Pure Street whatever class with the back-halved cars and goes 9.20's. Guess why - because the car is back-halved and on a 8" converter with a brake. It's not the tires I promise.
Norm is spot-on.Heat cycling of ANY tire hardens it, making it less effective.
The best bet is to get REAL slicks, and put them on at the track. You will go faster, and they will last longer, making them both cheaper and better performing. I guarantee a 26x8 slick will do you better than a 10.5 drag radial. Aww no back seat? Small price to pay for faster runs and a perfect excuse for not having to haul other people around.
ORIGINAL: Norm Peterson
275/40's want to be on (at least) 9" wide rims (you probably get a little better grip on 9's vs 8's as a side benefit). Are you sure about 245/50-18's? The OE size is 235/50-18. Understand that the 275/40-17 is 1.3" shorter than the 235/50-18 and 2" shorter than a 245/50-18 if that's what you really do have. Physically, it'll work, but I'll avoid commenting on the likely appearance.
Anyway . . . . Save the DR's for the track.
For at least two reasons. The obvious one you already know about.
And the other is that if you waste all the DR's heat cycles doing street driving, they won't be as good at the track. Tires do not remain at constant "stickiness" over the full life of the tread. Some tires lose more and lose it fasterthan others, but all tires lose grip with time and use. Put this little scrap of information away and let the guys in similar cars who think it's cool to drive around on their race tires wonder why they keep losing to you.
Norm
275/40's want to be on (at least) 9" wide rims (you probably get a little better grip on 9's vs 8's as a side benefit). Are you sure about 245/50-18's? The OE size is 235/50-18. Understand that the 275/40-17 is 1.3" shorter than the 235/50-18 and 2" shorter than a 245/50-18 if that's what you really do have. Physically, it'll work, but I'll avoid commenting on the likely appearance.
Anyway . . . . Save the DR's for the track.
For at least two reasons. The obvious one you already know about.
And the other is that if you waste all the DR's heat cycles doing street driving, they won't be as good at the track. Tires do not remain at constant "stickiness" over the full life of the tread. Some tires lose more and lose it fasterthan others, but all tires lose grip with time and use. Put this little scrap of information away and let the guys in similar cars who think it's cool to drive around on their race tires wonder why they keep losing to you.
Norm
there 245/50/18w/ me being lazy and having back problems, i dont wana change the tire all the time. but ill change it before i head to the track but ill prob wana leave them on for a bit after. Slicks sound like a bit much for a stock car no? i'm not trying to rip out my drive shaft w/ slicks lol.
I just plan on doing some basic bolt one like gears, intake, tune.
I pretty much wana know if there a tire i can pull 1.8's atleast and drive it in the rain if i get stock in it like a day later.
Im thinking 255 or 275/45/17 w/ 17 x 9 w/ my stock 245/50/18 up front. I think the height of the tire will ok enough between the two.
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