UberHax0r

ok, I think I'm slowly getting closer to what I will purchase in a month or so for my suspension upgrade. here's the shopping list so far, along with prices and website I found it on. if anyone finds parts cheaper let me know (or even if you think I could get a better quality part). any feedback is welcome

Tokico D-specs:
$503
hotpart.com

Eibach Pro Kit springs:
$180
ebay seller: uprproductsonline

adj. panhard:
$125
hotpart.com

BMR adj. lower controls "combo":
$260
lethalperformance.com

BMR solid upper control, spherical:
$176
lethalperformance.com

BMR upper control bushing:
$35
lethalperformance.com

BMR uca mount:
$136
lethalperformance.com

BMR lca relocation brackets:
$135
lethalperformance.com

CHE K-member brace:
$165
lethalperformance.com

BMR rear sway bar 7/8":
$200
lethalperformance.com


Grand Total (parts): $1915, not including shipping/handling charges

so, where can I make improvements here? I followed Al's guide pretty closely, so I think I'm on the right track, but any suggestions or feedback is always appreciated

jayel579

Well....... I am going to echo a lot of the suspension gurus on this forum but what does the car do suspension wise that you don't like? What are you goals or purposesfor improving the car? To say I want it to handle better is a blank statement. These cars are pretty darn good right off the showroom floor and for 90% of the people out there with these cars no improvements are needed. By no means am I saying there isn't room for improvement or am I telling you how to spend you money. Buy whatever you want, just come up with a better plan then a shopping list.

UberHax0r

I don't track the car, never been to a drag strip with it, and I don't plan on it. It's my daily driver, but I want to lower it. With all of my previous (FWD) cars all I needed was shocks/struts and springs. it seems it takes a lot more to comfortably lower these mustangs.

as I said, I don't race or anything. just cruise to work and back throughout the week. I hate the wheel hop on slightly rainy days and the squat irritates me. I just want a firmer ride, but not like I'm riding on cement shocks [8D]. I'm mainly after the lowered look though.

Texotic

from what i've read recently, i'd say go with some Koni shock instead of the D-Specs if you can afford it. most of BMR's parts are mainly designed for drag racing, if you plan on doing AutoX or road racing, i'd get the Steeda Competition 3rd Link instead of the BMR. i'd also go with Steeda relocation brackets and rear sway bar.

RodeoFlyer

If you strictly want just to lower the car, forget about the control arms and swaybar. Add in a set of front endlinks from StranoParts.com though.

THEN decide what you want/need.

Your stated goal at this point is less than half the cost you have listed.

DeStonn

If your car is a daily driver you are wasting money. If you lower it get new shocks/struts, adj. panhard bar and if you must have LCAs DON"T get the rod ends because the vibration and noise is annoying in a daily driver.

I am getting rid of my "combo" spohn and BMR relocation brackets and replacing them with just the Steeda billet LCAs because they are light, strong and have bushings. I couldn't take the vibration and noise any longer.

F1Fan

Hi UberHaxOr,

I can save you alittle bit ofmoney and aggrivation. Consider this setupif youwant a car with a practical ride heightbut with aslightly lowered stancewith acomfortable ride but still very solid roadhandling DDstreet car. This setup will ride and handle better than the BMR kit you are considering.

Here is what I suggest for $1,800 or so all ordered from Steeda and Brother's.

DSP12Tokico D-Specs $550
555-8215/16 SteedaSport Springs $260
555-2551 Steeda AdjustableStreet Panhard bar $160
555-2555Steeda HD Panhard bar brace $80
555-4109 Steeda Comp/Street UCA/UCA mount kit $280
555-1065 Steeda Front and Rear Anti-Roll bar kit, spec the 22mm rear bar$360
M-5538-A FRPP GT500 LCA's $100 Brother's Performance Warehouse

HTH!

EDIT: I'm making the Steeda Sportspring suggestion based on your location in Indy and the deep spoiler in your sig photowhich I'm assumming you want to stay attached to your car. I'm also making some concessions to comfort and DD noise reduction. If this is your first real performance car I suggest you wait and seehow the car drives and handles with poly and rubber bushings before jumping off a cliff with poly rod end combos as even the 50/50 combos are noisier.

GotMunchies?

If you just want a lowered car with better ride quality, you won't need sway-bars or control arms. Start with this package, see what you think, and then move on from there:

1. Tokico D-Spec (widely considered the best bang-for-buck strut/shock to hit the market, our D-Spec was designed with Mustangs in mind and is adjustable for ride comfort or aggressive handling).
2. Eibach Pro-Kit springs (~1.5" drop) or Steeda Sport Springs (~1" drop)
3. Steeda adj. Panhard rod and brace (You'll need an adjustable panhard rod to center the rear axle after lowering the car, the new rod and brace will also shore up the rear end making it more controllable and giving the driver better feel during cornering)
4. Steed HD Strut mount (the HD front strut mount allows camber adjustment on the front wheels, will be necessary after lowering the car to correct for the changes in suspension geometry) Alternatively, you could get camber bolts. I would reccomend the strut mount.

~$1200 - ~$1300
This is your most basic initial suspension upgrade. Try this out and address any problems you find after this. Most likely, your next step would be control arms.

F1Fan

Hi GotMunchies?

In my previous post Iwas going to suggestsomething simple but wanted to showthe OP that he could put together something significantlyquieter, better handling, better performing and smoother riding for less money than the BMR stuff helisted. He also complained about wheel hop which is whyI selectedthe best UCA on the market, Steeda's UCA/UCA mountsystem and included FRPP GT500 LCA's to help minmize NVHwhile still improving rear axle control.

But as I mentionedIMO simpler for a first pass might be a better choice given that the OP hasnot had a high powered rear drivecar before. As much as I likedSteeda's Heavy Duty strut mounts on mycar before I installed Steeda's Coilover systemI think the OPwilldojust fine with these simpler core suspensionparts and make better use of the same $1,300in your list. These parts allowfor more options in suspension adjustment and better rear axle control and improved sideview IC (Instant Center) geometry.As you say the OP can always add anti-roll bars later ifhe finds the balancenot to his liking.

DSP12 Tokico D-Specs $550
M-18183-A FRPP GT500 Strut Mount$66
M-5538-AFRPP GT500 LCA's $100
5.81260K Eibach Camber Bolt kit $30
555-8215/16 Steeda Sport Springs $260
555-2551 Steeda Adjustable Street PanhardBar$160
555-2555 Steeda HD Panhard Bar Brace $80

Cheers!

EDITED for typos and clarity.