Steering and grip
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 151
From:
RE: Steering and grip
I installed the Strano adjustable end links on the front swaybar and changed my alignment to 1/8" to out and there was a dramatic improvement in turn in last week at the track. I haven't had "wandering" issues while driving on the street with this setting.
Former Sponsor
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,936
RE: Steering and grip
The first thing you need to know about balance is this: A lot of thing effect it, and there is no single "right answer".
You say the car is still a little biased toward understeer. Ok, but when? In what situations? For example, it's very hard to get to the limit in any sort of hard, but not insane street driving. Much easier to get to a limit in an enviroment like an autox or track day, and the balance of the car will change @ 100% vs. 90%.
Further,I know from my years of teaching folks to drive that most times when people are really complaining of understeer, it's true... and also a result of carrying too much speed into a corner, or trying to brake and turn at the same time. And the biggest mistake made is folks try and setup the car around a driving mistake. You might get the car to turn better by loosening up the tail a lot, but then it'll be a lot more nervous in transitional moves. And being that this is your first time autoxing, I assure you that you have a lot to learn and that with simply getting instruction and seat time thecar's behavior will magically change for the better without touching a thing on the car.
As for the springs. Yes, he has GT500 springs on the car. They have a working rate of about 10 lbs/in more than the "normal" GT springs, and are wound slightly differently. Both sets use the same rear springs. And lets not forget that this particular car is also supercharged and does carry a bit more weight anyway. Not that the springs are the issue, they aren't. Frankly you can't really feel anything less than a 10% change in rate, let alone 10 lbs.
Adjustable front links help front end grip on turn in by getting rid of pre-load on the front swaybar. The tire gets loaded less abruptly. Understeer generally starts @ turn in and continues throughout. This is an item that helps that early corner scenerio. And as you have read above, it works.
You could use more negative camber. Really when you -1.5 which is a lot, going a bit more won't really cause much more tire wear on the street. Of course you'll get some more, but you'll also add front grip which, when cornering makes life easier on the outside of the tire (and makes the car faster).
I drive my car all over with -2.1....
And the tires.... street tires on a powerful, but nose heavy car when pushed to the limit will cause two things. First is more corner entry understeer, followed by more power on oversteer when compared to increasingly sticky tires. The grippier the tire, generally the better the balance in and out of corners.
You say the car is still a little biased toward understeer. Ok, but when? In what situations? For example, it's very hard to get to the limit in any sort of hard, but not insane street driving. Much easier to get to a limit in an enviroment like an autox or track day, and the balance of the car will change @ 100% vs. 90%.
Further,I know from my years of teaching folks to drive that most times when people are really complaining of understeer, it's true... and also a result of carrying too much speed into a corner, or trying to brake and turn at the same time. And the biggest mistake made is folks try and setup the car around a driving mistake. You might get the car to turn better by loosening up the tail a lot, but then it'll be a lot more nervous in transitional moves. And being that this is your first time autoxing, I assure you that you have a lot to learn and that with simply getting instruction and seat time thecar's behavior will magically change for the better without touching a thing on the car.
As for the springs. Yes, he has GT500 springs on the car. They have a working rate of about 10 lbs/in more than the "normal" GT springs, and are wound slightly differently. Both sets use the same rear springs. And lets not forget that this particular car is also supercharged and does carry a bit more weight anyway. Not that the springs are the issue, they aren't. Frankly you can't really feel anything less than a 10% change in rate, let alone 10 lbs.
Adjustable front links help front end grip on turn in by getting rid of pre-load on the front swaybar. The tire gets loaded less abruptly. Understeer generally starts @ turn in and continues throughout. This is an item that helps that early corner scenerio. And as you have read above, it works.
You could use more negative camber. Really when you -1.5 which is a lot, going a bit more won't really cause much more tire wear on the street. Of course you'll get some more, but you'll also add front grip which, when cornering makes life easier on the outside of the tire (and makes the car faster).
I drive my car all over with -2.1....
And the tires.... street tires on a powerful, but nose heavy car when pushed to the limit will cause two things. First is more corner entry understeer, followed by more power on oversteer when compared to increasingly sticky tires. The grippier the tire, generally the better the balance in and out of corners.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,471
From: California
RE: Steering and grip
ORIGINAL: 2007GT/CS
Answers:
[ul][*]Running 5zigen FN0r1-c 18x9.5 45mm offset with BFG g-Force KDW 275/35ZR18 on all 4 corners at 30 psi[*]+0.10 toe in, Camber -1.5, Caster dunno - told them to set it to stock specs. I was looking for something I could drive around everyday and not change for the occasional auto-x. Perhaps this is unrealistic?[*]Vogtlands came in a box with the same part number as what I ordered and everything looked factory packed/sealed(?). That being said -even if there was no funny business - maybe not the greatest choice? The car exhibits minimal braking dive and settles quickly from any change in attitude. I do like that part. I can feel every pavement snake and rock - don't mind that too much.[*]The LCAs are pointing slightly up toward/on the axle end. I have some relocs but have not installed them.
Still on the stock front bar. Stock end links on everything as well.[/ul]
If we could come out of this with a list that says, "try this first, then this, etc." that would be most helpful. Not afraid to hear, "you need to switch part a for part b" as long as it is backed by sound reasoning. Also not afraid to hear. "that's as good as x gets. If you want more buy an Evo [:'(]".
Was my first time racing and I was running low 62s. The guys in my class that won were running 58 on race rubber (17x9 Enkei wheels with 35mm offset). I absolutly know I was totally outclassed in driving skills (going to SCCA school weekend after this) but puttering with the car setup gives me something to do in the meantime... Hopefully I can pick up some additional tech advice there too.
Thanks!
Answers:
[ul][*]Running 5zigen FN0r1-c 18x9.5 45mm offset with BFG g-Force KDW 275/35ZR18 on all 4 corners at 30 psi[*]+0.10 toe in, Camber -1.5, Caster dunno - told them to set it to stock specs. I was looking for something I could drive around everyday and not change for the occasional auto-x. Perhaps this is unrealistic?[*]Vogtlands came in a box with the same part number as what I ordered and everything looked factory packed/sealed(?). That being said -even if there was no funny business - maybe not the greatest choice? The car exhibits minimal braking dive and settles quickly from any change in attitude. I do like that part. I can feel every pavement snake and rock - don't mind that too much.[*]The LCAs are pointing slightly up toward/on the axle end. I have some relocs but have not installed them.
Still on the stock front bar. Stock end links on everything as well.[/ul]
If we could come out of this with a list that says, "try this first, then this, etc." that would be most helpful. Not afraid to hear, "you need to switch part a for part b" as long as it is backed by sound reasoning. Also not afraid to hear. "that's as good as x gets. If you want more buy an Evo [:'(]".
Was my first time racing and I was running low 62s. The guys in my class that won were running 58 on race rubber (17x9 Enkei wheels with 35mm offset). I absolutly know I was totally outclassed in driving skills (going to SCCA school weekend after this) but puttering with the car setup gives me something to do in the meantime... Hopefully I can pick up some additional tech advice there too.
Thanks!
Oh you don't seem to mention if the problem wasduring atrack lapping session or an autoX event.Runninglaps on a track allows the tires to come up to temp and tire pressures to stabilize whereautoX is done on cold tires usually after waiting for what seems like hours which is more than enough to leave you with cold tires and (s)low tire pressues. For autoX you need to start with your targettire pressures cold. So for example if the car was working well at 38psi and the car has been sitting and the tire airgot cold you need to add air so your tires are at their optimum pressure from the drop of the hammer or you will be slow.
O.K. based on what you posted as I mentioned above the first thing I noticed isyour tire pressures, are these cold or hot readings? With a 9.5" wide wheel and 274/35x18tires all around I would imagine youneed to start with a cold pressure of about 35-38psi all around and see if your turn-in improved as the tires warmed up and the pressures came up to nominal, you may also want to try lowering the rear tire pressure a couple of pounds to help loosenthe rear of the car up once you have stable hot tire pressures. Do you have access to acontact tire pyrometer? If not get one, that wide 275 section tire low 35 series sidewall and 9.5" wide wheel should have given you a sharp steering car at the wheel even with the wrong springs. Combine these wheels and tires with that toe setting and you should have aresponsive feeling steering wheelwhich tells me that your tire pressures may be significantly off. Look here first.
To get the rear end to come arounda little better and to make transitions faster you will also have to work on your damper settings. Don't change any parts or alignment yet as they seem O.K. but realize that with the slightly higher ride height springs you have and a stock front bar yourcar andis probably rolling more than you think it is and the front outside tire is probably being overworked especially being so underinflated. So we're back totire pressure again.
Didn't we have this discussion previously about these Vogtland springs? AFAIK that Vogtland part number is for a GT500 which weights about 450-500lbs. more than aGT and at least half of that is right over the front tires between the iron block, blower and trans. I would imagine that what Vogtlandhas doneis simplyincrease thefront spring rateanduse the same spring as a GT at the rear based on the ride heights given for these springs on Sam's site.Thismay have something to do with your handling imbalance but I'd work on tire pressures and damper settings first. Maybe with damping andtire pressures that work rightthe imbalance will be reasonably workable and you can address the handling balance issue later as your driving progresses.
HTH!
4th Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,471
From: California
RE: Steering and grip
ORIGINAL: Sam Strano
The first thing you need to know about balance is this: A lot of thing effect it, and there is no single "right answer".
You say the car is still a little biased toward understeer. Ok, but when? In what situations? For example, it's very hard to get to the limit in any sort of hard, but not insane street driving. Much easier to get to a limit in an enviroment like an autox or track day, and the balance of the car will change @ 100% vs. 90%.
Further,I know from my years of teaching folks to drive that most times when people are really complaining of understeer, it's true... and also a result of carrying too much speed into a corner, or trying to brake and turn at the same time. And the biggest mistake made is folks try and setup the car around a driving mistake. You might get the car to turn better by loosening up the tail a lot, but then it'll be a lot more nervous in transitional moves. And being that this is your first time autoxing, I assure you that you have a lot to learn and that with simply getting instruction and seat time thecar's behavior will magically change for the better without touching a thing on the car.
As for the springs. Yes, he has GT500 springs on the car. They have a working rate of about 10 lbs/in more than the "normal" GT springs, and are wound slightly differently. Both sets use the same rear springs. And lets not forget that this particular car is also supercharged and does carry a bit more weight anyway. Not that the springs are the issue, they aren't. Frankly you can't really feel anything less than a 10% change in rate, let alone 10 lbs.
Adjustable front links help front end grip on turn in by getting rid of pre-load on the front swaybar. The tire gets loaded less abruptly. Understeer generally starts @ turn in and continues throughout. This is an item that helps that early corner scenerio. And as you have read above, it works.
You could use more negative camber. Really when you -1.5 which is a lot, going a bit more won't really cause much more tire wear on the street. Of course you'll get some more, but you'll also add front grip which, when cornering makes life easier on the outside of the tire (and makes the car faster).
I drive my car all over with -2.1....
And the tires.... street tires on a powerful, but nose heavy car when pushed to the limit will cause two things. First is more corner entry understeer, followed by more power on oversteer when compared to increasingly sticky tires. The grippier the tire, generally the better the balance in and out of corners.
The first thing you need to know about balance is this: A lot of thing effect it, and there is no single "right answer".
You say the car is still a little biased toward understeer. Ok, but when? In what situations? For example, it's very hard to get to the limit in any sort of hard, but not insane street driving. Much easier to get to a limit in an enviroment like an autox or track day, and the balance of the car will change @ 100% vs. 90%.
Further,I know from my years of teaching folks to drive that most times when people are really complaining of understeer, it's true... and also a result of carrying too much speed into a corner, or trying to brake and turn at the same time. And the biggest mistake made is folks try and setup the car around a driving mistake. You might get the car to turn better by loosening up the tail a lot, but then it'll be a lot more nervous in transitional moves. And being that this is your first time autoxing, I assure you that you have a lot to learn and that with simply getting instruction and seat time thecar's behavior will magically change for the better without touching a thing on the car.
As for the springs. Yes, he has GT500 springs on the car. They have a working rate of about 10 lbs/in more than the "normal" GT springs, and are wound slightly differently. Both sets use the same rear springs. And lets not forget that this particular car is also supercharged and does carry a bit more weight anyway. Not that the springs are the issue, they aren't. Frankly you can't really feel anything less than a 10% change in rate, let alone 10 lbs.
Adjustable front links help front end grip on turn in by getting rid of pre-load on the front swaybar. The tire gets loaded less abruptly. Understeer generally starts @ turn in and continues throughout. This is an item that helps that early corner scenerio. And as you have read above, it works.
You could use more negative camber. Really when you -1.5 which is a lot, going a bit more won't really cause much more tire wear on the street. Of course you'll get some more, but you'll also add front grip which, when cornering makes life easier on the outside of the tire (and makes the car faster).
I drive my car all over with -2.1....
And the tires.... street tires on a powerful, but nose heavy car when pushed to the limit will cause two things. First is more corner entry understeer, followed by more power on oversteer when compared to increasingly sticky tires. The grippier the tire, generally the better the balance in and out of corners.
I have to agree, fast is slow in andfast out. This is even moreimportant when driving an overpowered car in a parking lot.
Cheers!
Former Sponsor
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,936
RE: Steering and grip
I don't really think there is a notion of "wrong" springs here given the relatively small range that most all S197 lowering springs live in. More front spring rate doens't necessarily mean you need more rear rate. And again, the working rates aren't all that different, the winding of the springs are.
Different car, but on my Camaro, I run 600 fronts, 150 rear. Stock is 292/115. I also increased the front bar size from 30 to 35mm, rear went from 19 to 22. My car does not push. It's not a Mustang, and I'm not saying that the exact formula should apply. I'm simply trying to show that more front spring relative to the rear doesn't necessarily equate to a push.
For me, we have a new autoxer, on street tires, with street pressures, with a street alignment, and who is also somewhat guessing on shock settings. The shocks won't change the steady state balance, but will effect response, and that in turn can alter how the car rotates at the limit.
I for one continue to believe that I can't fix this car or driver online. There are far too many variables. What I am sure of is that the car can easily made to be balanced in most siuation regardless of what springs are on it--it's just a matter of what else is being used in conjunction with them.
Different car, but on my Camaro, I run 600 fronts, 150 rear. Stock is 292/115. I also increased the front bar size from 30 to 35mm, rear went from 19 to 22. My car does not push. It's not a Mustang, and I'm not saying that the exact formula should apply. I'm simply trying to show that more front spring relative to the rear doesn't necessarily equate to a push.
For me, we have a new autoxer, on street tires, with street pressures, with a street alignment, and who is also somewhat guessing on shock settings. The shocks won't change the steady state balance, but will effect response, and that in turn can alter how the car rotates at the limit.
I for one continue to believe that I can't fix this car or driver online. There are far too many variables. What I am sure of is that the car can easily made to be balanced in most siuation regardless of what springs are on it--it's just a matter of what else is being used in conjunction with them.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,471
From: California
RE: Steering and grip
ORIGINAL: Sam Strano
I don't really think there is a notion of "wrong" springs here given the relatively small range that most all S197 lowering springs live in. More front spring rate doens't necessarily mean you need more rear rate. And again, the working rates aren't all that different, the winding of the springs are.
Different car, but on my Camaro, I run 600 fronts, 150 rear. Stock is 292/115. I also increased the front bar size from 30 to 35mm, rear went from 19 to 22. My car does not push. It's not a Mustang, and I'm not saying that the exact formula should apply. I'm simply trying to show that more front spring relative to the rear doesn't necessarily equate to a push.
For me, we have a new autoxer, on street tires, with street pressures, with a street alignment, and who is also somewhat guessing on shock settings. The shocks won't change the steady state balance, but will effect response, and that in turn can alter how the car rotates at the limit.
I for one continue to believe that I can't fix this car or driver online. There are far too many variables. What I am sure of is that the car can easily made to be balanced in most siuation regardless of what springs are on it--it's just a matter of what else is being used in conjunction with them.
I don't really think there is a notion of "wrong" springs here given the relatively small range that most all S197 lowering springs live in. More front spring rate doens't necessarily mean you need more rear rate. And again, the working rates aren't all that different, the winding of the springs are.
Different car, but on my Camaro, I run 600 fronts, 150 rear. Stock is 292/115. I also increased the front bar size from 30 to 35mm, rear went from 19 to 22. My car does not push. It's not a Mustang, and I'm not saying that the exact formula should apply. I'm simply trying to show that more front spring relative to the rear doesn't necessarily equate to a push.
For me, we have a new autoxer, on street tires, with street pressures, with a street alignment, and who is also somewhat guessing on shock settings. The shocks won't change the steady state balance, but will effect response, and that in turn can alter how the car rotates at the limit.
I for one continue to believe that I can't fix this car or driver online. There are far too many variables. What I am sure of is that the car can easily made to be balanced in most siuation regardless of what springs are on it--it's just a matter of what else is being used in conjunction with them.
The range of spring rates being used on S197GT's is pretty large and I've seen anywhere from the stock 140lb. springs to 450lb. springs on S197GT street cars. I'm not endorsing these high rates just saying what I've seen on the street.
The old F-bodyCamerohas a muchheavier nose and avery different suspension configurationwith muchlower wheel rate ratio than the S197 chassis which isnearly 1:1. Your F-body is more like the last generation SN/95 and the spring rates you have chosenare nearly identical to thoseof a lot of fastSN/95 cars.
Did the OP say he was autoXing? If so then my previous post about tire pressures are even more important as the OP'stire pressures are well below the factory recomended pressures even if they were cold measurements. The OP has installeddifferent wheels and tires andin my experiencetire pressures rarely need to go down when going to a wider,lower profile tire.Generally speaking less air volume means you need to run higher pressure to carry a giventire load and optimizecontact patch. Which is why I suggested that the OPbeg, borrow or steal a tire pyrometer and see what is going on with his pressures and possibly alignment settings. Once the OPhas these issues under control or at least has some data to use to make adjustments he can consider other issues.
Nobody here canfully reslovethe OP's problems only the OP can resolve his handling issues. And this requires seat time and coaching to progress more quickly. Of coursehe canachive better balance even with the wrong springs but he will probably wind up needing to make some hardware changes to go along with his new and improved driving skills if he hopes to beat the other guys. I mean not everybody wants to or can afford to wear outa $1,000 set of tires faster just because it is possible to "make" the car's balance better with enough camber dialed into the front end. What if he wants to take the car on a road course? I'll tell you whatwill happen, another guy with an S197GT and a better balanced spring and barpackage and maybe slightly better geometry will run under him because he has more tire on the track andcan godeeper before braking and will be able to ease into throttle that much sooner and leave him wondering what he did wrong.
Handling feel is subjective and needs an experienced butt to tell the difference between fast and slow. Handling feelcan be verymisleading asyou canhave a car that feels like it is doing everything right and still be slow on the clock.
HTH!
Thread Starter
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 889
From: Ohio
RE: Steering and grip
I love this forum!
Ok, lemme see if I can summarize:
1) Most of the problem is probably me. Driving too fast into the corner, braking and turning etc. Things that load up that outside tire out of proportion to the other three. Will work on that.
2) More tire pressure. Start with 40 or so and dial down from there. Get chalk and read. Get pyrometer and read. Those last two should tell me something about how pressure and alignment are working.
3) The cool endlinks are good. I'm also going to go ahead an put on the K-member brace I've got (shouldn't hurt). I'll re-eyeball those LCAs and make sure they are parallel.
4) Set the Konis to one full turn stiffer than full soft in front and 1 1/2 turns in the back.
5) More camberfrom -1.5 to -2.0. Zero out the toe (even some toe out?!?!). Any caster change?
6) When I've got some more experience *then* make additional adjustments.
I got a lot of good info in these posts. My apologies if I missed something. If so, please re-emphasize
Likewise if you've asked a clarifying question that I did not answer.
Here's a thought... since I'm going to SCCA autoX class weekend after this maybe either they will have or set up a skidpad or 8 where I can wring some things out in a more controlled manner.
Ok, lemme see if I can summarize:
1) Most of the problem is probably me. Driving too fast into the corner, braking and turning etc. Things that load up that outside tire out of proportion to the other three. Will work on that.
2) More tire pressure. Start with 40 or so and dial down from there. Get chalk and read. Get pyrometer and read. Those last two should tell me something about how pressure and alignment are working.
3) The cool endlinks are good. I'm also going to go ahead an put on the K-member brace I've got (shouldn't hurt). I'll re-eyeball those LCAs and make sure they are parallel.
4) Set the Konis to one full turn stiffer than full soft in front and 1 1/2 turns in the back.
5) More camberfrom -1.5 to -2.0. Zero out the toe (even some toe out?!?!). Any caster change?
6) When I've got some more experience *then* make additional adjustments.
I got a lot of good info in these posts. My apologies if I missed something. If so, please re-emphasize
Likewise if you've asked a clarifying question that I did not answer.Here's a thought... since I'm going to SCCA autoX class weekend after this maybe either they will have or set up a skidpad or 8 where I can wring some things out in a more controlled manner.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 245
From:
RE: Steering and grip
The soft turn-in is one of the first things I wanted to change in this car. I installed the steeda front control arm bushing kit. Definite improvement in turn-in! I'm still using the red soft material, vs the black harder stuff. These things install pretty easy, so if someone local had a set you could try them out.
http://www.steeda.com/products/steed...m_bush_kit.php
http://www.steeda.com/products/steed...m_bush_kit.php
Thread Starter
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 889
From: Ohio
RE: Steering and grip
ORIGINAL: SlideWRX
The soft turn-in is one of the first things I wanted to change in this car. I installed the steeda front control arm bushing kit. Definite improvement in turn-in! I'm still using the red soft material, vs the black harder stuff. These things install pretty easy, so if someone local had a set you could try them out.
http://www.steeda.com/products/steed...m_bush_kit.php
The soft turn-in is one of the first things I wanted to change in this car. I installed the steeda front control arm bushing kit. Definite improvement in turn-in! I'm still using the red soft material, vs the black harder stuff. These things install pretty easy, so if someone local had a set you could try them out.
http://www.steeda.com/products/steed...m_bush_kit.php
Former Sponsor
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,936
RE: Steering and grip
ORIGINAL: 2007GT/CS
I love this forum!
Ok, lemme see if I can summarize:
1) Most of the problem is probably me. Driving too fast into the corner, braking and turning etc. Things that load up that outside tire out of proportion to the other three. Will work on that.
2) More tire pressure. Start with 40 or so and dial down from there. Get chalk and read. Get pyrometer and read. Those last two should tell me something about how pressure and alignment are working.
3) The cool endlinks are good. I'm also going to go ahead an put on the K-member brace I've got (shouldn't hurt). I'll re-eyeball those LCAs and make sure they are parallel.
4) Set the Konis to one full turn stiffer than full soft in front and 1 1/2 turns in the back.
5) More camberfrom -1.5 to -2.0. Zero out the toe (even some toe out?!?!). Any caster change?
6) When I've got some more experience *then* make additional adjustments.
I got a lot of good info in these posts. My apologies if I missed something. If so, please re-emphasize Likewise if you've asked a clarifying question that I did not answer.
Here's a thought... since I'm going to SCCA autoX class weekend after this maybe either they will have or set up a skidpad or 8 where I can wring some things out in a more controlled manner.
I love this forum!
Ok, lemme see if I can summarize:
1) Most of the problem is probably me. Driving too fast into the corner, braking and turning etc. Things that load up that outside tire out of proportion to the other three. Will work on that.
2) More tire pressure. Start with 40 or so and dial down from there. Get chalk and read. Get pyrometer and read. Those last two should tell me something about how pressure and alignment are working.
3) The cool endlinks are good. I'm also going to go ahead an put on the K-member brace I've got (shouldn't hurt). I'll re-eyeball those LCAs and make sure they are parallel.
4) Set the Konis to one full turn stiffer than full soft in front and 1 1/2 turns in the back.
5) More camberfrom -1.5 to -2.0. Zero out the toe (even some toe out?!?!). Any caster change?
6) When I've got some more experience *then* make additional adjustments.
I got a lot of good info in these posts. My apologies if I missed something. If so, please re-emphasize
Likewise if you've asked a clarifying question that I did not answer.Here's a thought... since I'm going to SCCA autoX class weekend after this maybe either they will have or set up a skidpad or 8 where I can wring some things out in a more controlled manner.
Let me point out some issues I see:
Most performance tires today don't "roll over" like they did in the past. Case in point, I can run my stock Pirelli's at stock 32 psi and not roll them off the tread onto the sidewall. Meanwhile on Hoosier R-comps, that are bigger (less load per square inch), I run between 42 and 44 psi in front. That "test" is about as valid these days as the 1970's bounce test for shocks.
Shocks effect how fast an end of the car reacts, not the steady state balance. I don't run more rear shock than front in the Shelby (which has lowering springs), but do in my GT (on stock springs. Both cars have Koni's. And when I was running a GT more on D-specs and the Shelby was on D-specs I was running them the same way. Yes, there are times when some cars in some situations would want more rear shock than front. I don't think that a car with a new to autox driver, on street tires is one of them, and would recommend against that in this case. Furthermore pyrometers don't always tell you much that's helpful. A few years back I skidpadded on a 200' pad, and a 10 psi change in the tires I was running showed no tangible change in temps.
Just watch the tire wear, that will tell you if you need more pressure.
Pick the shock settings you like best on the street and leave them for now. Make the camber change. Do the linksto getrid of the pre-load on the bar. Go maybe to 40 front, 35 rear on pressure and don't do anything else.Ask folks to look at you tire wear and help with suggestions (just up ordown at an end), and only mess with thatat this point. That's even a touch much given your experience level right now, but seems you want to mess around.
This is all in my opinion... but I have a pretty good idea of how, and what to change, and how S197's act in this situation, as well as how inexperienced drivers act in this situation.