With the mods you have, some quick and simple-ish adjustments can be made to help turn in and balance handling:

1. Toe - I have mine set 1/32" toe out and after several thousand miles am still showing even and not excessive wear. The benefit is a sharper turn in and less vagueness in the steering.

2. Damping balance. If you're having trouble understeer, increase grip on the front end. In an environment such as AutoX, you should be running a very stiff setting as it is. In addition, soften up the front or tighten down the back a little. This will lend more grip to the front.

If you want to consider purchasingnew bits n' pieces and don't already have grippy wheels and tires (always the best mod for racing) look into an adjustable rear sway bar. The front bar is plenty large, the rear's got some catching up to do and the adjustability will help you dial in your car the way you like.


Also some general tips for AutoX: The Mustang does not like trail braking. Make sure you get all of your braking done before each turn and use the throttle to help steer the car through bends.

 

I wanted to thank everyone for all their input. This is great stuff. I'm still taking it all in......

The FedEx guy just dropped off my adjustable end links. That was fast!Now I have something to do (beside mow the lawn)

 

The thing with brakes and first time track events is that you can't know exactly what you need. I recommened the combo of 2500/HPS's, and if there would have been 2500 rears, I'd have recommended those because they are very streetable.

However, the car is nose heavy, and the front brakes do in fact do most of the work. And in fact many road-raced pony cars have very successfully used not very aggressive rear pads. And often that's what we want. The rear brakes will still work, it's not like they won't be there and ineffective. They are not worked to the degree the fronts are, and if you put "too much" pad in the rear there can be bad results. Most notably being over biased to the rear, and in the case of race pads, severe rear rotor wear as the pads don't get up or remain at temps needed for a number of race compounds.

The first time is a shake down. After his track day, we'll be able to get a better read on what changes (if any) might be necessary on the pad front. He upgraded the fronts to something that won't disintegrate and should hold up fine, especially for a first time on a road course (and a not really fast one from what I understand).

 

Sam

You are correct - the first track we hit is fairly slow, probably up to about 100 mph.

I'll let you know how it all works out.

 

And here is why we don't need or want killer rear pads on the back. This is a picture of my '07, setup for F-stock autox. Taken this Sunday at a local event. Car is on Koni's, stock springs, stock pads front and rear, and a set of 295/30-18 Hoosier's. In fact it's probably more stock than many cars belonging to members here.

http://www.whoistouching.us/gallery/...mp;id=P4270027

Adding too much rear bite to a rear that lightly loaded will only cause the ABS to come in prematurely.

You'll also note that while the car is on stock springs the majority of the "dive" is actually the tail headed up more than the front slamming the ground (just check the wheel gap).