itchy5

Has anyone installed the Steeda UCA chassis mount. It comes with their Competition UCA or Street/Competition UCA? There are two holes in the mounting bracket on the chassis end of the UCA. Which one do you use? We tried to use the first one because it would be easier to adjust, but we had trouble making it short enough to make the pinion flange angle less than the drive shaft angle. This was probably operator error on my part, but anyway. We dropped the gas tank again, removed the mount, put the UCA in the hole further towards the front of the car on the UCA mount (which makes adjusting the jam nut a royal pain in the ****) We, reinstalled and now the pinion angle is better, but I was just wondering what other people had done.

steelcomp

Steeda's competition UCA is longer than stock, thus the two different holes, and it mounts in the forward most mounting hole. The rearward hole is for UCA's that are stock length. Adjusting pinion angle with any adjustable UCA is a PITA. Easier with adjustable LCA's. I don't know about you, but I also had to roll the edge of my gas tank to clear the mount and rod end in the UCA. Longer UCA is definately needed on these cars.

itchy5

I bought the street/Comp UCA. It has a bushing instead of the spherical joint. I also had to bend the edge of the gas tank to fit it in place. It's a really nice piece, but a total pain in the *** to adjust. The jam nut on the chassis mount end, is almost impossible to get to. I think it is designed so that you can remove the rubber bumpstop and get the wrench on the jam nut, but once it is installed I couldn't get it out.

Can't wait for my post alignment driving on monday afternoon

Fullsayl

You know, you might PM F1fan, Norm Peterson, or Rodeoflyer. They all have extensive experience tweaking the suspension on our cars and they probably have some useful info for you on this one

HTH
~Matt

itchy5

I was waiting for F1Fan to respond. I figured since his many posts are the reason I bought most of the suspension parts and have an angry wife, he owed me a response

steelcomp

All good guys with good advice. I've been tweaking on mine the same, just don't have the time to spend on the internet.
FYI...I've heard of the street UCA coming loose and unwinding which will change pinion angle. Might want to use some locktiite on the jam nuts. With a bushing instead of a bearing, there's a lot of twisting transferred into the shaft of the UCA and it's inevitable that it's going to loosen one of the jamb nuts. I've got a few hundred miles on mine (comp UCA with the bearing) with no issues, except that if your car is lowered, the UCA will hit the floorpanwhen hittinghard bumps or dips.

itchy5

The only other issue I had was that we could not use a replacement UCA to Differential Bushing Bolt. That bolt is a flag bolt, but the steeda UCA does not have the required stop for the flag. Maybe I am just a poor mechanic, but we couldn't hold the flag bolt well enought to apply the correct torque (129 ft-lbs) So I used a 10.9 hex bolt with plenty of loctite so that we could hold the hex head while torquing the replacement nut.