ponyman

I have a squeaky rear.

Okay so I recently finished 90% of my rear suspension (only missing the UCA stuff). The front is done too but no noise up there.

Here is the list for reference: BMR (combo adj LCA, LCA reloc bracket, adj panhard, panhard support, swaybar (w/ old style endlinks)), Roush extreme lowering springs, Tokico d-spec shocks.

I have taken every bushing apart and regreased everyone (inside and out). I have zerk greased all of them and I still have squeaking.

It sounds like it *might* be the panhard rod bushings at the axle. The other options are the Tokico's at the body (don't think they can squeak at the axle), or possibly the springs at the body perch.

I'm really at a loss for how to eliminate the squeaking on a more permenant basis.

Did anyone put any grease on the top of the springs at the body perch? I'm thinking that might help, but I'm not sure if that would be a good idea or not. Wondering if the swaybar pushing might be "bad", but I just don't know. And it is really hard for me to locate the squeaking.

Any thoughts?

F1Fan

Hi Ponyman,

Did you lube the exterior surfaces of the bushings that touch any brackets? Like the Panhard Bar bushings that touch the chassis mount? If it is polyurethane and it touches anything metal justlube it. The upper damper bushings won't likely squeak as they are rubber as are the lower damper mounts (which don't touch anything anyway) andbothof thespring seats. Did you lube the outside of the poly bushings at the axle end of the anti-roll bars? Believe it or not the poly bushing on the anti-roll bar end bushings can squeek under the brackets. GuesshowI know this? But based on what you are saying you've already doneyou may not havefully torqued all of your suspension fasteners and something is just loose enough allowing movement to occur where it should not. Also not all squeaksare caused by urethane bushings rubbing metal,sometimes you can get squeaks from metal on metal again caused by not achieving complete torqueon all fasteners.

The only way to achive propper torque is to use a known good torque wrench on every fastener using the factory shop manual specs. Locktite helps to prevent loosening once you get the torque right.

HTH!

<<EDITED:missing thoughts>>

Margarita Girl

My car doesn't squeak, it creaks.[&:]

I'm dropping it off on Tuesday and the shop is putting it on a lift to lube and check that all bolt are tight.

Margarita Girl

Back from shop and been driving for a few days.

Creaking noise is gone. Crossing my fingers it does not return. [:-]

F1Fan

Hi Margarita Girl,
So did they say what they did to make the noise go away?

Cheers!

Margarita Girl

They lubed everything on the front end and put an impact gun to any nut that would have been touched when my struts were replaced. Said they found one nut noticably loose on the strut tower, but all else looked fine.

F1Fan

Hi Margarita Girl,

I've found that a lot of shops are sloppy and justgun everything. This is no good becauseimpact guns cannot measure torque and different guns are capable of widely varying torque values. For example I have a 1/2" IR gun that claims tocapable of 600ft/lbs. and another3/8" IR gunthat claims to be capable of 230ft/lbs. when set to the maximum settingbutcannot even hit 85ft/lbs. unless you sit there with the gun hammeringfor10-15 seconds. It might see 200ft/lbs. if you hammer on it for a30-40 seconds but no way is 2-3 seconds going to get even close to modest 85ft/lbs.of say a front roll bar end-link. If the mechanic does not use a gun to initial assembly and a torque wrench for final assembly you never had a chance.

I've personally seen and we have all read about alot of noises in cars withaftermartket suspension installedand it's usually been tracked down to fasteners that are not at Ford specified or propertorque for a particular fastener size and grade.This is one of the biggestreasons there are so many problems found with aftermarket suspension a few miles down the road with noises. You need to install the suspension complete with a first pass at torque and then drive it a few milesand re-torque to finaltorque specs once the parts allsettle down. This is most apparent with new struts and strut mounts and where the most problems arise. I suppose no mechanic wants to take the time to do it "right" because it comes out of his own pocket up front. But all that skipping the test drive and re-torque does is make a customer unhappy when they discover a noise that is attributed to a loose bolt or nut and the time comes out of the mechanic's time anyway. IMO all this does is make the mechanic look bad and to me looklike he did not pay attention to his work or missed something. Butthe fact of the matter is that a mechanic that has notfigured this out yetis probably not a great mechanic anywayand is not likely to learn from his mistakes, your inconvience, time and money.

HTH!

Margarita Girl

F1: I had new springs and struts installed by the same shop that installed my 4.10 gears. I chose that shop for their reputation with gear install, and had them put on the suspension stuff while they had the car. I admit this was a mistake on my part. Ended up costing me more than it should have, and like you said, a rushed job.

The shop I had lube and tighten is a friendly/local/convenient place (also less expensive) that also changed my oil. They do not do alignments so eventually, I'll need a third referral for that. And who do I have put exhaust on? And for Christmas I want a NOS installed with purge kit. [8D] At least I was able to install my sequentail tail lights and intake/tune by myself. Oh, and I painted my calipers.

F1Fan

Hi Margarita Girl,

Well if it turned out O.K. and didn't hurt you or the car but cost a bit more money I suppose it turned out O.K.if not ideal no? Is that local shop you likenice to you and receptive to your wishes and suggestions? If so maybe it would help to develop the relationship a bit with a sixer and thank you note, it can't hurt unless you think itcould be taken the wrong way. I don't know you personally but you seem nice and arealways so upbeat so don't take this the wrong way either. 8^)

What kind of exhaust, axle backs?Do you have any hand tools? Axle backs are simple and only require a floor jack, two jack stands,a few sockets and wrenches and an hour to install inyour garage or driveway. They are literally an unbolt and replace item with good access to all of the fasteners. If this is not at all your thing do likeI suggest and find some local Mustang people, they are EVERYWHERE and I'm sure one of themis a sucker for helping out with this sort of thing like I am if you just bring a case of beer with you to lubricate the works. Then you can bask in the glow a job well done and admire thenew foundsound of your pony.

The ZEX kit is an easy kit to install and is perfectly safe up to a 75 shotas included with the kit which is a pretty good kick in the pants when the juice is flowing. Of course you can also go with thesmallerpills (jets) for a 50 shot and make the bottle last a little longer and the power more manageable under tire so to speak when it hits. I'm very proud of you for doing theCAI, tunesequentiallight moduleson your own. But painted calipers? I suppose it's sort of likeamani-pedi for the careh? I can't say it's because you're a girl asa lot of the boyshave painted their calipers too. Hey how did you get yourwheels off to paint the calipers? Do you already have a floor jack, jack stands and mechanics tools? If notjust buy amedium set of mechanics tools with both SAE and metric sockets and wrenchesfrom Sears online for your birthday or some other national holiday (or maybe just to help the economy!) and you can do theZEX kit install yourself, seriously! There is seriousmoney to be saved by doing your own labor, more than enough to pay for the tools and have enough left over to buy more stuff! I do all of my own suspension, steering,brake and top of the engine work. Of course I have a few tools I've been buying over the years by saving on installation costs. 8^)

HTH!
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