LCAs Clunking???
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 322
From:
I was just going to order bmr adjustables
I have Eibach Pro Kit Springs and was told I should get the adjustable lca's. I'm glad I read this...should I forget it for now or can I use the Gt500's (hadn't considered that)? I can't stand the wheel hop.
1st Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 58
From:
bump for a few answers to the red questions
take to top
i have the BMR combination LCAs, with the poly-end forward on the car, and the rod-ends rearward on the axle.
?1) does anyone have the exact nut/bolt/ washer specs/sizes i need to do this?
i want to make only one trip to the hardware store.
?2) which type/color of loctite??
I also have the BMR relocation brackets, but i doubt that makes a hill of beans of difference.
?3) lastly, probably a stupid question, but do the washers go on the rod-end bolts? or the poly-bushing bolts?.
clunk-clunk.
2+ on embarrassing.
thanks.
doc
?1) does anyone have the exact nut/bolt/ washer specs/sizes i need to do this?
i want to make only one trip to the hardware store.
?2) which type/color of loctite??
I also have the BMR relocation brackets, but i doubt that makes a hill of beans of difference.
?3) lastly, probably a stupid question, but do the washers go on the rod-end bolts? or the poly-bushing bolts?.
clunk-clunk.
2+ on embarrassing.
thanks.
doc
6th Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 7,635
From: state of confusion
Some medium-strength grade ought to be enough. You don't want to have to heat the bolt/nut/joint to take it apart as is usually required with the 'red' stuff.
Whichever ones are running out of thread as the joint is tightened. Both if you're not sure.
Norm
?3) lastly, probably a stupid question, but do the washers go on the rod-end bolts? or the poly-bushing bolts.
Norm
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2
From: va
i have griggs lca's and they clunk, and sometimes they squeak but the good news is they pulled 7 tenths of my 1/4 et and now i have a decent 60 foot time. i have gone back to my guys twice for tightening and re-greasing.....but the noises come back
6th Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 7,635
From: state of confusion
Norm
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 16
From: MD
Interesting tidbit
Polyurethane can be noisy if done WRONG.
WRONG #1 You cannot blend anything into Polyurethane.
Not even Graphite!
Nothing like this works because the family of Urethane
plastic does not like impurities.
(the word Polyurethane means blends of different Urethane plastics)
Graphite does not work for a couple reasons. If you put just a little in
the Urethane then the graphite is fully encapsulated by the Urethane
and the Graphite never touches the metal sway bar or a-arm shaft.
If you add a lot, then the Polyurethane falls apart because
it does not stick to the graphite (remember, graphite is a slippery lubricant).
You might as well throw handful of dirt into it.
Wrong #2 You cannot put in a grease zirk and tell people to grease it.
Polyurethane must have the right lubricant to make it quiet.
There are some lube greases that are bad for Polyurethane.
So there are all these greasable bushings caked up with the
wrong grease and the Polyurethane bushings are still Noisy.
Wrong #3 You cannot cost reduce your Polyurethane products and
expect a long and quiet life. Polyurethane is like anything else
important to you. It comes in many different grades. Polyurethane
can be designed and tempered a lot like steel.. If you design it to cure too
quickly it becomes harder. Harder Polyurethane is Noisier. Shorter molding
time means less cost. So between the correct chemistry and mold design,
it costs just a little more to do it right. But it sure pays off.
WRONG #1 You cannot blend anything into Polyurethane.
Not even Graphite!
Nothing like this works because the family of Urethane
plastic does not like impurities.
(the word Polyurethane means blends of different Urethane plastics)
Graphite does not work for a couple reasons. If you put just a little in
the Urethane then the graphite is fully encapsulated by the Urethane
and the Graphite never touches the metal sway bar or a-arm shaft.
If you add a lot, then the Polyurethane falls apart because
it does not stick to the graphite (remember, graphite is a slippery lubricant).
You might as well throw handful of dirt into it.
Wrong #2 You cannot put in a grease zirk and tell people to grease it.
Polyurethane must have the right lubricant to make it quiet.
There are some lube greases that are bad for Polyurethane.
So there are all these greasable bushings caked up with the
wrong grease and the Polyurethane bushings are still Noisy.
Wrong #3 You cannot cost reduce your Polyurethane products and
expect a long and quiet life. Polyurethane is like anything else
important to you. It comes in many different grades. Polyurethane
can be designed and tempered a lot like steel.. If you design it to cure too
quickly it becomes harder. Harder Polyurethane is Noisier. Shorter molding
time means less cost. So between the correct chemistry and mold design,
it costs just a little more to do it right. But it sure pays off.
Thread Starter
4th Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,496
From: NJ
I had to order the bolts from tennesee and when I put them in the noise was definitely reduced. At first I even thought the problem was fixed. No cigar though, I don't remember if it gradually came back or what but It's back now--though better than originally.
