BMRFabricationSales

You will only notice a difference if your a serious corner carver. They do help more on the convertible models vs the coupes. We do offer a couple different versions for cars with or without the engine cover. I will post you a link to our site. Give me a call if you have any questions.

http://www.bmrfabrication.com/2005MustangCHASSIS.htm

Sam Strano

A STB won't hurt anything, and you might see some difference in feel, but it's nothing super huge. It does stiffen the towers a bit and on this car does actually do something.

That said, it'd not be the part I'd recommend. Swaybars would be a good thing if you want less roll, but I would not do those before a quality set of dampers (shocks/struts), and here are the reasons why:

You don't want a harsh ride. The stock shocks ride worse than my Koni's do. And I get to see the difference every day with my girlfriend's V-6. We have all stock GT springs and bars on the car, as well as my take-off GT dampers. Not only is my car much more composed over bumps, it's less crashing when you hit them. Add to that it changes direction much more quickly as the additional damping slows roll rate. And the slower roll rate fools a lot of folks into feeling the car actually rolls less. If you find the response better, the tracking better, and that the roll rate is cut down to where it doesn't bother you anymore, then you might not opt for swaybars.

I don't think bars are a bad thing to do in general, though you can go too big on the rear bar (and most are). But the shocks are the place to start. Ford builds them to a price, and while they aren't hateful, they aren't great and get worse with miles.

Note: You could also opt for Tokico D-specs. They are cheaper than Koni's (though they are going up on 11/1 by about $60 a set), but don't feel they are built as well. In fact I had used them previously and was pretty pleased considering the price until I broke one (and I'm not the only one). But I do think the Koni's work better, and others here have had both and tend to agree. I can think of at least two others on this forum who've had D-spec and Koni's both.

LawsonEOD

As for the brace a simple test I used on my Jeep when building it. To truely see if something was moving or flexing under stress as in between strut towers. Place helmet cam under hood. Secure a fixed wire on the part you are concerned about. Place a segmented back drop behind the wire and then drive the car under your test conditions. The video does not lie. The wire will or will move and indicate how much movement or none movement is happening. Then you decide if you want to do something about it.

Sorry not tring to steal the thread and this seems the best place to start on this forum as I have a new toy (08 GT) in the garage to go along with my Jeep and Buell. How about some suggestions for an 08 Gt to lower/balance the stance, improve handling in the corners, and reduce nose drive under hard braking and tail drop under heavy footed starts. I like details about products. I read a lot about differant strut and shocks on here for lowered cars. But I can not seem to find much on their total travel, max extension/compression lenghts and rates. How each compares to stock items. What other parts to complete the setup and keep the front and rear ends true and squarly under the vehicle. My back ground is with motorcycles and lifted Jeeps/4X4's with three and four link suspensions. Thanks and I look forward to learning about a new type of motorsport.

07musclemustang

ummm ok lemme get my helmet cam....

Stoenr

He does bring up good points tho.
I can see my STB thru the hole in my cowl hood, but cannot see any movement. But I only see the top arch.

LawsonEOD

The camera can be any video camera that fits under the hood while under operation. I only suggested the helmet cam because that is what I have and they generally have high video quality. JMHO.

Texotic

everybody says it's just eye candy... if it turns out that it does help, i may get me one. my guess is that if you're going to do it, go ahead and get one of the 3-point ones, because i would think that would give you a bigger chance of seeing a difference.

houstonnw

Have you read the Griggs Racing article on their new GR40 system for the S197 Mustangs?

Here's a quote:

I don't think that Griggs or MM sell a strut tower brace for the new Mustang. That's enough for me!

RodeoFlyer

MM doesn't sell much at all for the S197 yet, so I wouldn't use the lack of one being avilable yet as the barometer.

I've had one on the car and off, and found absolutely no discernable difference.

The 3-point pieces are a crock -that's not the firewall they attach to. It's just a cowl panel. There isn't any rigidity there.

chabbz182

you won't notice it without some suspension mods.