Eibach Sportline VS FRRP springs
10-16-2008, 08:24 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Indian Trail NC
Posts: 14
Eibach Sportline VS FRRP springs
Hey is anybody running Eibach Sportline Or FRRP lowering springs? I am going to be running the FRRP Dampers but I want the lowest center of gravity possible. I have read some reviews on the Sportlines saying that they are really harsh. I am running 20" X 8.5 255 30 tires in the front and 20x 10 285 30 rubber in the rear. My car is an 08 Bullitt but don't get me started on the factory setup. Does anybody have the FRRP spring and damper set installed? I want to do some SCCA solo and some pretty aggressive autocross track days with the car. It is not a daily driver and sees only about 100 miles every 2 months.
I really want the best handling best looking setup available. I don't mind a really firm ride. But it has to be manageable.
Thanks for any and all input.
Dave
I really want the best handling best looking setup available. I don't mind a really firm ride. But it has to be manageable.
Thanks for any and all input.
Dave
10-16-2008, 09:55 AM
#2
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
Miscellaneous rambling thoughts, in no particular order . . .
(1) Seat time. Solo/auto-X is unlike any driving that you've likely ever done, as the turns simply do not come at you as fast anywhere else nor do they vary as rapidly. Even before your first event ever you really ought to have more than 100 street miles in this car under your belt stretched out over the preceding month or two.
(2) Are you planning to compete in a particular class or just run it in whatever class it falls into? I think the 10" wide rear wheels and 285/xx tires alone put you in either STU or ESP. ESP if you're going to run on "R-compounds", STU if your "street tires" are rated (IIRC) 140 or higher for treadwear. If a "Novice" class is offered, sign up there.
(3) What do you think the Bullit suspension should be doing better than it does, and what are you doing while it is doing this? Anyway, in Solo/autocross, wheel hop is not generally a major issue, so you can skip past most of the drag race oriented "fixes" (most of them are wrong for auto-X). That the OE shocks and struts tend to be on the harsh side is known (this may apply to the FRPP pieces as well). For Solo, it's beginning to look like Konis = first choice, D-specs next, followed by everything else, with the FRPP's perhaps being toward the top of "everything else".
(4) "Best looking" means different things to different people. More "level", some unknown amount lower, or some combination? Since "best handling" and "lowest drop" do not necessarily go hand in hand, which of those has priority? Sportlines are not generally considered to be good competition springs, as they do not have enough spring rate for the amount of drop that they provide. Smacking the bumpstops in every maneuver is neither the tidy nor the quick way around a course, and that's probably what's responsible for the harshness complaints as well. Stick closer to 1" drop instead.
(5) Drive it the way it is and see what it wants when you drive it at auto-X intensity. At least start with something that you're sort of familiar with.
(6) Sam Strano
Norm
(1) Seat time. Solo/auto-X is unlike any driving that you've likely ever done, as the turns simply do not come at you as fast anywhere else nor do they vary as rapidly. Even before your first event ever you really ought to have more than 100 street miles in this car under your belt stretched out over the preceding month or two.
(2) Are you planning to compete in a particular class or just run it in whatever class it falls into? I think the 10" wide rear wheels and 285/xx tires alone put you in either STU or ESP. ESP if you're going to run on "R-compounds", STU if your "street tires" are rated (IIRC) 140 or higher for treadwear. If a "Novice" class is offered, sign up there.
(3) What do you think the Bullit suspension should be doing better than it does, and what are you doing while it is doing this? Anyway, in Solo/autocross, wheel hop is not generally a major issue, so you can skip past most of the drag race oriented "fixes" (most of them are wrong for auto-X). That the OE shocks and struts tend to be on the harsh side is known (this may apply to the FRPP pieces as well). For Solo, it's beginning to look like Konis = first choice, D-specs next, followed by everything else, with the FRPP's perhaps being toward the top of "everything else".
(4) "Best looking" means different things to different people. More "level", some unknown amount lower, or some combination? Since "best handling" and "lowest drop" do not necessarily go hand in hand, which of those has priority? Sportlines are not generally considered to be good competition springs, as they do not have enough spring rate for the amount of drop that they provide. Smacking the bumpstops in every maneuver is neither the tidy nor the quick way around a course, and that's probably what's responsible for the harshness complaints as well. Stick closer to 1" drop instead.
(5) Drive it the way it is and see what it wants when you drive it at auto-X intensity. At least start with something that you're sort of familiar with.
(6) Sam Strano
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 10-17-2008 at 05:16 AM. Reason: spellin'
10-16-2008, 10:13 AM
#3
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: CA
Posts: 1,700
unless you intend to play with your roll centers, the car doesn't do great after about an inch of drop. The Vogtland's and H&R's work well.
the FRPP dampers are slightly better crap than the crap stockers. Go with Koni's if you want adjustability. I had Bilsteins for a while and they worked well with my setup.
Pick the class you intend to run in and work your car around it's rules. Some simple mods will boost you into ridiculous classes.
the FRPP dampers are slightly better crap than the crap stockers. Go with Koni's if you want adjustability. I had Bilsteins for a while and they worked well with my setup.
Pick the class you intend to run in and work your car around it's rules. Some simple mods will boost you into ridiculous classes.
10-16-2008, 10:53 AM
#4
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Indian Trail NC
Posts: 14
Classes
Hey guys thanks for the info.
While I am new to most of the SCCA classes I am not new to racing. I have a good amount of track time under my belt in my 93 saleen SSC. But that said it mostly run what ya brung days that had limited or no passing that car was setup for 95% track time fully adjustable coil overs ETC. I will be running R compounds for track days. I am in the process of joining a private track club (palmetto motorsports club) at Carolina motorsports park offering many track days for all levels of experience. Right now with a 2 year old and a new baby on the way going the full coil over route is cost prohibitive to say the least. I pretty much blew my wad on the brakes and wheel tire combo. I am running 14in in the front and 13 inch in the rear.
As for the Bullitt suspension setup. There have been allegations that stock suspension parts were used where Bullitt specific parts were supposed to be in place IE springs, and roll bars. It is belived that due to production shortages stock parts were subbed in to keep delivery dates on track. I didn't believe until I saw evidence with my own eyes. At a pretty large Bullitt meet a few months ago we had 11 2008 Bullitts all with pretty spread out production numbers parked in a line and only 4 of them were at the same ride height. The rest were at the standard GT ride height. That is just some of the drama with the suspension. As I never planned on keeping the suspension stock It really only bugs me on the principle side of it.
I drive this car very rarely as I work offshore for at least 7 and a half months a year. I for sure do not want a car that rides the bump stops as that will send me into the grass. I want a setup that handles flat on the track and will eat up some of the nasty wheel well gap. Thnaks for the input.
While I am new to most of the SCCA classes I am not new to racing. I have a good amount of track time under my belt in my 93 saleen SSC. But that said it mostly run what ya brung days that had limited or no passing that car was setup for 95% track time fully adjustable coil overs ETC. I will be running R compounds for track days. I am in the process of joining a private track club (palmetto motorsports club) at Carolina motorsports park offering many track days for all levels of experience. Right now with a 2 year old and a new baby on the way going the full coil over route is cost prohibitive to say the least. I pretty much blew my wad on the brakes and wheel tire combo. I am running 14in in the front and 13 inch in the rear.
As for the Bullitt suspension setup. There have been allegations that stock suspension parts were used where Bullitt specific parts were supposed to be in place IE springs, and roll bars. It is belived that due to production shortages stock parts were subbed in to keep delivery dates on track. I didn't believe until I saw evidence with my own eyes. At a pretty large Bullitt meet a few months ago we had 11 2008 Bullitts all with pretty spread out production numbers parked in a line and only 4 of them were at the same ride height. The rest were at the standard GT ride height. That is just some of the drama with the suspension. As I never planned on keeping the suspension stock It really only bugs me on the principle side of it.
I drive this car very rarely as I work offshore for at least 7 and a half months a year. I for sure do not want a car that rides the bump stops as that will send me into the grass. I want a setup that handles flat on the track and will eat up some of the nasty wheel well gap. Thnaks for the input.
10-17-2008, 07:15 AM
#6
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Virginia
Posts: 40
unless you intend to play with your roll centers, the car doesn't do great after about an inch of drop. The Vogtland's and H&R's work well.
the FRPP dampers are slightly better crap than the crap stockers. Go with Koni's if you want adjustability. I had Bilsteins for a while and they worked well with my setup.
Pick the class you intend to run in and work your car around it's rules. Some simple mods will boost you into ridiculous classes.
the FRPP dampers are slightly better crap than the crap stockers. Go with Koni's if you want adjustability. I had Bilsteins for a while and they worked well with my setup.
Pick the class you intend to run in and work your car around it's rules. Some simple mods will boost you into ridiculous classes.
I can verify, as another 2008 Bullitt owner, that the Vogtland/Koni setup works very well on the track (Summit Point in my case). Of course, call Sam Strano.
Jim
10-17-2008, 07:36 AM
#7
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Indian Trail NC
Posts: 14
Hey guys thanks for all the input. It looks to me like I will either run a set of D-specs and steeda springs. Or run it like it is for the next 2 months and ***** up to a full coil over setup during the winter season.
I am also looking into the Watts linkage from steeda I hear only good things about it.
I am also looking into the Watts linkage from steeda I hear only good things about it.
10-17-2008, 02:53 PM
#8
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: College Station, TX
Posts: 2,179
yeah, i really want to do a watts link, but it's pretty far down on the suspension to-do list.
what kind of coil-overs are you looking at? i can't decide if the height adjustment would be worth it... i think it may be, college station roads suck the big one.
what kind of coil-overs are you looking at? i can't decide if the height adjustment would be worth it... i think it may be, college station roads suck the big one.
10-17-2008, 05:32 PM
#9
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Indian Trail NC
Posts: 14
Suspension
Well When I was at A&M I was in my uber redneck stage and drove a lifted K5 blazer so roads were not an issue.
That being said there are plenty I would never drive my Bullitt down. I'm not sure what setup yet, I am looking hard at the Eibach multi pro setup so I can cruise nice and soft with the wife and kid and firm as hell on the track. But I also need to install camber plates and strut mounts and all that so it will be a little ways off.
The watts link was ordered today I will post pics after install.
That being said there are plenty I would never drive my Bullitt down. I'm not sure what setup yet, I am looking hard at the Eibach multi pro setup so I can cruise nice and soft with the wife and kid and firm as hell on the track. But I also need to install camber plates and strut mounts and all that so it will be a little ways off.
The watts link was ordered today I will post pics after install.
10-17-2008, 08:22 PM
#10
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Harrisburg PA
Posts: 1,778
Wow, you are ready to drop some serious cash, those Eibach are about $2500. If you are that interested in high performance suspension you should check out Griggs, they have a complete SLA system for the front end. FWIW - I was at VIR this summer and met a guy with the H&R coil overs, he loved them, he was also blazing fast and on street tires.