I found a great deal on a set of adjustable sways the front are 4 way and the rear are 3 way. But They are listed as GT/GT500 coupe set . Will they also bolt to a v6 ?
They are cheap enough that I may just use the rear one and leave the front v6 sway stock.

 

I think I found the answer .

 

They should bolt right up, but will probably be a bit too heavy for your ride. Running a V6 is going to be lighter and will probably generate some understeer.

Jazzer

 

Jazzer -

They have 4 positions front and 3 rear. Please explain to us why you think they will generate some understeer, and what that has to do with it being a V6.

 

Didn't handle this well, sorry pepes

 

and this is going to turn into a mess soon..

 

Hey lets keep it a happy discussion.
I like all points of view . Thats how I learn something new and become a better mustangforums member .

I like a car with some amount of oversteer so with a stock front sway plus the 4 way front that adds up to 5 different stiffness settings for the front .

The front sway is also 7%-70% stiffer than a GT front sway But I see what you are saying Jazzer. If they are 7% stiffer than a GT sway and a GT sway is stiffer than a V6 sway that is a big difference in the v6 and the 4way GT upgrade sway will be a big difference . that has the potential to produce a lot of understeer. Also the V6 engine bay is a little lighter too.
The three settings on the back will more than likely be a little stiffer than on a GT 7%-70% stiffer.
The fact that they are adjustable front and rear gives me confidence that they will do the job of making a v6 handle much better than just a stock v6 front sway by it self .

The total settings with the adjustable sways + the stock sway will give me a total of 15 different setups .
That sounds good to me especially since you still have other factors to adjust that have an effect on over/under steer.
Tire pressures fro one example.

I think they will fit since GT takeoffs get put on v6 mustangs all the time.

I love this stuff.

 

Okay "Jazzer" (please)

If you want to reduce things to name calling i'll say you are an ignorant TOOL. You CONTINUALLY give BAD information on here. You don't know what you are talking about most of the time, and don't even own an S197. This is WRONG of you.

I don't have nor claim to have "tremendous" knowledge of cars. It is clear form your posts, however that I have much more than you, which is little at best. Buying a GR40 kit doesn't make you knowledgeable. I only respond to questions that I know the answer to or have input based on EXPERIENCE and EDUCATION. You need to get some seat time and read some damned books.

If you do your research, the only people that I am ****ty to are the ones like you that give bad information to people and lead them down the wrong path. Yes, people like you do make me angry and yes I do enjoy pointing out that you are ignorant and an *** for spreading the disease. I go out of my way to pick on you because you constantly do a disservice to the members of this forum.

Yeah - I drive pretty well, BECAUSE I have a great driving coach and a sorted car. I have surrounded myself by the best in the business of what we do and have listened and learned. I have spent time in shops helping pros work on their cars to learn all the little tricks. There's not much of what I know that was learned on this forum. That's because of guys like YOU.

In the future if you want to attack me do us all a favor and do it via p.m. moron

 

Yeeeeeehawwww ( Just kidding )

I love you guys. If your not for sure about the out come of somthing or an mod and have an opinion about it at least put it in the form of a Question that way someone can think about it and research it and form their own opinion.

At least Jazzer said probably and not state it as a fact.(YOU gotta give him that)

 

Not to pick on you, but I'm afraid that this isn't nearly enough information on which to base any conclusions. The sixxer comes with no rear bar (unless it's a package car), so ratios of only bar stiffness are meaningless (consider this: a rear bar that's some % stiffer than some other rear bar is how many times stiffer than no bar at all? DIV0! = ?). For that matter, I'm not sure if 7% - 70% stiffer also applies to the rear bar even if it is correct for the front one. If you want to have any feel at all for what might happen, you'd have to throw more specific bar stiffness numbers - I'm talking about bar end rates in lb/in, spring rates, and motion ratios here - into a lateral load distribution spreadsheet and see which settings bias the load transfer more to your (estimated!!!) liking.

I know that you want a "looser" car, but I'm afraid that what you think you want is TOO loose. If you'd ever driven a car at speed through a sequence of turns and known that either adding throttle or allowing any deceleration whatsoever would have you looking at where you just came from I don't think you'd be quite so set on this.


What adjustability means is that you have a better chance of getting it dialed in more closely to your preference, assuming that the range of adjustments is wide enough for that to happen.


Unless you're autocrossing and need to use pressures to crutch the car's behavior, it's best to not need tire pressures for anything more than final fine-tuning. Get the basic handling close with springs/bars/shocks/struts/other first.


Norm