Everything S197 handleing ( lets learn somthing )
#1
Everything S197 handleing ( lets learn somthing )
I started this thread to be a devoted mustang handling adjustment Thread. Theory is fine here to .
Feel welcome to cut and paste whole post from other threads as long as it is a complete thought or has relevance to what is being discussed .
(not the whole thread though )
Driving style and preferences on setup is also welcome .
I know this is a large topic but maybe someday we can come back and read this thread over and still get some great information out of it.
I will start off by asking what is actually adjustable on the stock 05-09 S197 ?
Also what can be adjustable with a bolt on part?
I hope we can get a really good idea about what each mod dose when bolted on .
Just because we may not understand exactly what every mod dose maybe someone dose and will chime in with a helpful bit of understanding and make us a better suspension tuner for it.
Almost anything goes . As long as it is on the evolution of the changing thread .
Oh yea If you cut and paste someone else's post from another thread on MustangForums please give them credit for it.
Feel welcome to cut and paste whole post from other threads as long as it is a complete thought or has relevance to what is being discussed .
(not the whole thread though )
Driving style and preferences on setup is also welcome .
I know this is a large topic but maybe someday we can come back and read this thread over and still get some great information out of it.
I will start off by asking what is actually adjustable on the stock 05-09 S197 ?
Also what can be adjustable with a bolt on part?
I hope we can get a really good idea about what each mod dose when bolted on .
Just because we may not understand exactly what every mod dose maybe someone dose and will chime in with a helpful bit of understanding and make us a better suspension tuner for it.
Almost anything goes . As long as it is on the evolution of the changing thread .
Oh yea If you cut and paste someone else's post from another thread on MustangForums please give them credit for it.
#3
Great ! If we get to a specific part maybe we can link to it if the link is really in depth .
Just as long as people don't just start to post link after link without any explanation of the link posted .
Just as long as people don't just start to post link after link without any explanation of the link posted .
#4
May be not but there has to be a few alignment tricks out there that would be nice to know . Or some free mods like the ones that OE stock classes do .
Or dirt cheap mods that may only make a small difference ( but there dirt cheap )
Like I read that some Oe stock class drivers have loosened the bolts on one sway bar to make the bar bushings have a little slack . Made a difference in the handling of the car .A Free OEM advantage . ( not recommended for someone who is going to leave it that way forever )
Or dirt cheap mods that may only make a small difference ( but there dirt cheap )
Like I read that some Oe stock class drivers have loosened the bolts on one sway bar to make the bar bushings have a little slack . Made a difference in the handling of the car .A Free OEM advantage . ( not recommended for someone who is going to leave it that way forever )
Last edited by clintster77; 01-17-2009 at 12:43 PM.
#7
Heavy duty strut mounts seem to be good for lowered cars that have a higher likelihood of bottom out .
Lcas ( lower control arms ) seem to be a culprit of wheel hop in stock form . It is more critical to replace them with aftermarket Lcas if it is lowered or has more than stock power to the rear wheels. When lowered pinion angle is altered so relocation brackets or adjustable Lcas are needed .
In stock form I would at the minimum replace the bushings with poly bushings if a cheap upgrade is desired .(just my personal opinion)
#8
I have none of these aftermarket parts so this is only what I have read and I am not an expert
Heavy duty strut mounts seem to be good for lowered cars that have a higher likelihood of bottom out .
Lcas ( lower control arms ) seem to be a culprit of wheel hop in stock form . It is more critical to replace them with aftermarket Lcas if it is lowered or has more than stock power to the rear wheels. When lowered pinion angle is altered so relocation brackets or adjustable Lcas are needed .
In stock form I would at the minimum replace the bushings with poly bushings if a cheap upgrade is desired .(just my personal opinion)
Heavy duty strut mounts seem to be good for lowered cars that have a higher likelihood of bottom out .
Lcas ( lower control arms ) seem to be a culprit of wheel hop in stock form . It is more critical to replace them with aftermarket Lcas if it is lowered or has more than stock power to the rear wheels. When lowered pinion angle is altered so relocation brackets or adjustable Lcas are needed .
In stock form I would at the minimum replace the bushings with poly bushings if a cheap upgrade is desired .(just my personal opinion)
Re-location brackets are not for adjusting your pinion angle. They are for changing anti-squat. Pinion angle is changed by control arm length.
Changing out the bushings in the stockers isn't worth it IMO, considering the GT500's are $100 from the dealer.
#9
I would like to contribute if I may... there are a thousand-and-one threads about lowering, but this one is jam packed full of all the information one needs:
https://mustangforums.com/forum/s197...ustang-gt.html
and while not directly handling related, this is a wonderful resource for anyone digging into the suspension, or any other area of the car for that matter...
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=1
https://mustangforums.com/forum/s197...ustang-gt.html
and while not directly handling related, this is a wonderful resource for anyone digging into the suspension, or any other area of the car for that matter...
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=1
#10
Heavy duty strut moutns aren't "for lowered cars". They are for everyone because the stock ones suck. It just happens that when you are changing springs you have them out already.
Re-location brackets are not for adjusting your pinion angle. They are for changing anti-squat. Pinion angle is changed by control arm length.
Re-location brackets are not for adjusting your pinion angle. They are for changing anti-squat. Pinion angle is changed by control arm length.
Hey I found this thread titled UCA, LCA and relocation brackets
LINK is LCA and relocation brackets
On LCA and relocation brackets Thread a BMR sponsor chimes in and post that
"our relocation brackets will not change your pinion angle. The holes are drilled on an arc so the only thing that changes is the angle of your lca's and the instant center of your car. "
This is a theory about how relocation brackets effect pinion travel.( It may be wrong)
If a car is lowered the Stock Lcas will be at a different angle . The angle will be as if the stock springs are already compressed . This is undesirable for launch because the stock Lcas are already on their arch . The farther in the arch you get the more dramatic the change as the suspension travels . Now if you put a relocation kit on a lowered car this restores the Lcas back to at least stock angle .What this dose is put it back within its acceptable travel arch . Since the Uca and the Lcas work together to keep the pinion angle correct during travel the change is slight when relocation brackets are added but it still changes because the Uca and the Lcas are different lengths so they are on different arch's.