So maybe the OP should buy a set of 2010 rear shocks?

 

Well, it remains to be seen to what extent they are "better". I'm sure they will be, but at what cost? Literally, OEM parts aren't dirt cheap from the dealer, and considering the cam kit for camber adjustment for us autoxers is $100+ for a few bolts, I wonder what the shocks will cost.

And they are still OEM shocks. Built to a price, and not intended to last much past when Ford is off the hook for warranty.

 

Doesn't Roush offer a rear only Shock?

 

Yes as their shocks, struts, and springs are sold by the axle.

 

Norm,

Thanks, great comments.

I was just using the Sensatraks & BBodies as an example of how folks spent thousands of dollars on trying to make their 3.5 ton 94-96 Impala SS into a Corvette only to return them back to a highway cruiser with cheap shocks. Maybe my problem is that I'm trying to turn this GT into a interstate high speed runner that ready isn't a characteristic of the design.

Bilsteins are always my default answer for FBodies. I'm surprised that the S197 Bilsteins cost so much more than those that I can get for FBodies - - - or Corvettes for that matter.

I'm looking for front and rear balance, so I would be doing both. Never used Tokico before, but the cost-point has my interest.

 

You're perhaps thinking about 4th gen F-bodies? What happens is struts are a good bit more expensive than shocks for either a stick axle or (more particularly) a SLA front suspension.

I don't have any experience with the D-specs, but from most everything I've seen here the ride-handling balance has to be better than Tokico's Illumina line (which I do have on other cars). FWIW.


Norm

 

Norm,

Yup, I'm talking about 4Gen FBodies. You can buy front & rear Bilsteins all day for around $350. The best I have seen Bilsteins for the S197 is just over $600.

Too Bad, I'm a big fan of Bilsteins.

Thanks Again,

 

The front struts are a lot larger on the Mustang than on the F-body, hence the higher cost.

signed,
Familiar with both S197's and F-bodies in PA

 

Qualifying statement: I'm no suspension expert.

That said - I put the Tokico HPs on mine - it helped the back (pitch), now my front needs more help. LOL.

Good thread though - I'll continue to follow.....

 

The rear springs are too soft and the rear swaybar is too thin. The car was designed like this so amateurs would not have an issue with too much oversteer when taking a corner on the fuel or in rainy conditions. With this configuration the car wants to push around the corners instead of the rear end sliding out. I agree on a stock GT the rear end is not doing what the front is. Roush sells rear only springs that are a little stiffer and will drop the car 3/4" in the rear. This will level the car out. Steeda has a rear sway bar only that is alot thicker. I think the swaybar only will significantly tighten up the rear end without sacrificing ride quality on your daily driver. The combination of all of the above will plus shocks will tighten the rear up significantly and the thing will corner like it never has before.