arganout, i noticed you said you road race, what break set up has worked for you? any suspension set up advice? i am coming from running a 350z with brembos, this is my first real MUSCLE car.

 

I haven't 'raced' my car but last year participated in 6 lappiing days on tracks ranging from short flat circuits to 2 days running 20 and 30 minute sessions at the Mosport GP circuit.

Based on my experience the high speed tracks are easier on brakes because they get more time to cool off between corners. The short flat point and shoot tracks can be hard on brakes, especially with an SC to help get the car moving between corners.

Check this current thread for my comments on brake mods https://mustangforums.com/forum/s197...etup-ever.html

If you are going to race then the rules applicable to your class will of course also affect any changes you make.

 

these are 1.6 to 2.1 long courses 20min sessions about 3 practice sessions with three ***** out timed lap at the end of the day only have one real hard breaking point(about 120mph to 10mph and power out of a hairpin) every thing else is trail breaking to make apex. i have always used the pad/line/fluid set up but have never used a car this heavy. i guess i will just have to try it, the cheapest set up is the brembo 4 piston set up from the gt500. i just droped about 1500 in suspension(ouch!)

 

The biggest cost of the GT500 setup is getting wheeels that clear the calipers.

A front brake cooling kit also really helps.

 

To be clear - I do not Race as in wheel-to-wheel competition. I do participate in DEs on race tracks, did 13 days last season. In my opinion, to participate in TT or DE events you need:
- SS lines
- Race oriented pads - I used Hawk DTC60 and HT-10 successfully. Other populars are the Carbotech XP10/XP8 and EBC Yellowstuff (latest compound, more of a novice to intermediate compound, not full out race)
- Hi-Temp fluid - I use ATE superblue
- Brake cooling ducts

The stock calipers and rotors are fine. Especially for short (less than 30 min) events. I have found this true even on Beaver Run - a brake eating track. Caliper and rotor upgrades are high dollar propositions, unless they are absolutely needed, like participating in endurance events or if I was extremely hard on brakes, the stockers are fine for the majority of users.

As for suspension - in very general terms you will benefit from: lower, stiffer springs; upgraded dampers (Koni or D-Spec); poly/rod end combo rear control arms and pan hard bar. Those are the biggies. There are lots of older threads that go into detail about this subject. If you have any interest in buying used, let me know. I will not be tracking the Mustang this year (bought a Corvette) and will be selling off all my aftermarket stuff.

 

So you moved to the "Dark side".

What Corvette are you going to be running and in what class?

 

Thanks for all that info, it was exactly what i wanted to hear. And yes, i would be interested in the panhard and trail arms. tell me how much for both items.

 

LOL - Dark Side - funny you should say that, its black on black. Its a 99FRC (fixed roof coupe) with a built motor, heads, lopey cam, long tubes, roll bar, 5 point harnesses, corbeau seats. Haven't gotten use to it at all yet, bad weather, but I can say its a big difference. The steering is stiff, the clutch is stiff, the shifter is stiff, the ride is rough, you sit so low you feel like you are on the ground. But ohhhh the handling and power. The Stang is a MUCH better daily driver though. No race class, wife won't let me and it cost too much anyway, I'm only doing DEs.

 

I have the front set of GT 500 Brembos I got off a totaled 500. Do you know if they would clear the FRPP 18" Bullitts?

 

The safest way to tell is to see if they sell the same wheels for a GT500. If not then there is a risk they won't fit as the GT500 claipers are large.