GT takeoff suspension on a V6
#12
#13
I can understand not having the rear sway, though. It's not really a necessity. The panhard bar is what keeps the axle centered on the rear end. Just the 3 control arms don't offer enough lateral rigidity to keep horizontal motions of the axle in check, so we have to have the PHB.
#15
No need to feel foolish.
If anything, the rest of us tend to get a little lazy when we talk about PHBs and such, assuming that everybody knows that these cars come with them as OE. It's easy to forget that not everybody knows things like this.
Just to point out that we all learn little things from time to time, I'll bet that there aren't very many here who know already that the rear drive axles on at least some 18-wheeler tractors (incorrectly, "cabs") use PHBs for lateral axle location - and that one axle's PHB is mounted to the right frame rail and the other axle's PHB goes to the left frame rail. I didn't until a couple of weeks ago.
Norm
If anything, the rest of us tend to get a little lazy when we talk about PHBs and such, assuming that everybody knows that these cars come with them as OE. It's easy to forget that not everybody knows things like this.
Just to point out that we all learn little things from time to time, I'll bet that there aren't very many here who know already that the rear drive axles on at least some 18-wheeler tractors (incorrectly, "cabs") use PHBs for lateral axle location - and that one axle's PHB is mounted to the right frame rail and the other axle's PHB goes to the left frame rail. I didn't until a couple of weeks ago.
Norm
#17
PM returned to the OP.
And all S197 have PHB's. In fact really only the springs, bars, dampers are the only suspension parts any different between most of all of the versions. Some small exceptions where say GT500's use different LCA bushings...
And all S197 have PHB's. In fact really only the springs, bars, dampers are the only suspension parts any different between most of all of the versions. Some small exceptions where say GT500's use different LCA bushings...
#18
Sam, thanks for the PM.
I think what I'm going to do is print this out, go to the dealer and beat them into submission so they'll do the "new" upper strut mounts and get that clunk out of the way.
Then, I'll spend a little dough and get the take off front and rear sway bars and all new poly bushings.
From there, I'll see where it goes, but I would like to bring the car down a little bit, but I don't want to sacrifice ride quality. I'm going to need tires soon so lowering may have to wait.
Anyone know of a good, long wearing 235/55ZR18 (current size) tire?
I think what I'm going to do is print this out, go to the dealer and beat them into submission so they'll do the "new" upper strut mounts and get that clunk out of the way.
Then, I'll spend a little dough and get the take off front and rear sway bars and all new poly bushings.
From there, I'll see where it goes, but I would like to bring the car down a little bit, but I don't want to sacrifice ride quality. I'm going to need tires soon so lowering may have to wait.
Anyone know of a good, long wearing 235/55ZR18 (current size) tire?
#19
Sam, thanks for the PM.
I think what I'm going to do is print this out, go to the dealer and beat them into submission so they'll do the "new" upper strut mounts and get that clunk out of the way.
Then, I'll spend a little dough and get the take off front and rear sway bars and all new poly bushings.
From there, I'll see where it goes, but I would like to bring the car down a little bit, but I don't want to sacrifice ride quality. I'm going to need tires soon so lowering may have to wait.
Anyone know of a good, long wearing 235/55ZR18 (current size) tire?
I think what I'm going to do is print this out, go to the dealer and beat them into submission so they'll do the "new" upper strut mounts and get that clunk out of the way.
Then, I'll spend a little dough and get the take off front and rear sway bars and all new poly bushings.
From there, I'll see where it goes, but I would like to bring the car down a little bit, but I don't want to sacrifice ride quality. I'm going to need tires soon so lowering may have to wait.
Anyone know of a good, long wearing 235/55ZR18 (current size) tire?
But the shocks, I'd change those straight away. Car will be better damped, feel more solid, ride better and track better. I'm not condoning not adding a rear bar or changing bars, but I think it's a bit premature to jump to changing both bars when you'd get more benefit from changing dampers and possibly only having to add a rear bar only.
The clunk can be other things beyond back shock mounts (I've not had one fail yet in 3 cars I personally see/drive all the time). Make sure your swaybar endlinks are tight and that they ball joints there aren't the issue....
Tires: 235/55-18? That's not stock. Either 235/55-17 or 235/50-18 are OE Ford 17 and 18" sizes.....
#20
It sounds to me like your front strut mounts are the problem, if everything else is tight.
Regarding GT takeoff parts, I'd like to add a few comments (as I almost did the same thing: a complete replacement of springs/struts/shocks/sway bars).
Springs: the rear springs are the same on a V6 and GT; verts are different ones than for coupes. The front springs on the V6 are a little softer than the GTs; the slightly stiffer gt springs might raise your front a little, maybe. So for stock springs, you already have GT springs in the rear.
Shocks/struts: the set for the GT are slightly different than the V6, for the different front spring rates. I don't know why the rear shocks are different since the springs are the same, perhaps for overall handling with other components.
Sway bars: the front gt swaybar is larger than the v6 front sway; both use the same hardware to attach to the car, so you an take off the v6 bar and put on the GT with the same hardware. For rear sway, moany v6s dont have one (mine didnt). Putting the gt rear sway bar on is very easy (6 bolts).
The V6 already has a panhard bar and a brace, so you're set with that alrady.
You can reuse the hardware when swapping parts.
Will you notice any difference with this setup? Probably a little better cornering.
(and +1 on asking: no question is too 'stupid'. If you don't know, just ask. A few people may reply with snide remarks, but as you can see, most of us are willing to help. We all have to start somewhere...I was in the same boat 3 years ago...knew NOTHING about these cars!)
Good luck, and get that bad boy fixed!
Regarding GT takeoff parts, I'd like to add a few comments (as I almost did the same thing: a complete replacement of springs/struts/shocks/sway bars).
Springs: the rear springs are the same on a V6 and GT; verts are different ones than for coupes. The front springs on the V6 are a little softer than the GTs; the slightly stiffer gt springs might raise your front a little, maybe. So for stock springs, you already have GT springs in the rear.
Shocks/struts: the set for the GT are slightly different than the V6, for the different front spring rates. I don't know why the rear shocks are different since the springs are the same, perhaps for overall handling with other components.
Sway bars: the front gt swaybar is larger than the v6 front sway; both use the same hardware to attach to the car, so you an take off the v6 bar and put on the GT with the same hardware. For rear sway, moany v6s dont have one (mine didnt). Putting the gt rear sway bar on is very easy (6 bolts).
The V6 already has a panhard bar and a brace, so you're set with that alrady.
You can reuse the hardware when swapping parts.
Will you notice any difference with this setup? Probably a little better cornering.
(and +1 on asking: no question is too 'stupid'. If you don't know, just ask. A few people may reply with snide remarks, but as you can see, most of us are willing to help. We all have to start somewhere...I was in the same boat 3 years ago...knew NOTHING about these cars!)
Good luck, and get that bad boy fixed!