I was looking at those. I'll probably pick up a set when I get my adjustable sways.

 

Thanks for reminding me.
My front sway bar is adjustable (Steeda 555-1050) but I've never taken it off the center hole because of having to undo the stock front links. With the new Stranopart ones I'll have something else to play with this season.

 

It's a lways a good feeling to find more toys to play with

 

I agree!

Last year it was a big challenge just getting used to driving a 445 HP standard on a race track compared to driving a 2001 Focus auto on the street!

After 6 track days and at least 12 hours last year on various tracks, some with instruction, the learning progress was pretty good.

This year with the data logger and video camera to help measure the changes it is time to really tune up both the car and driver.

 

yes you are usually right about the red but .....these end links are a SOB ! ....and for some reason even if you use red you can still take the nuts off pretty easy ! you must use new nuts every time because they just dont hold there torque settings or use some red on them !

The Steeda and Maxmimum ones say use red period ! or they will come undone because they dont use a nylon lock nut just a standered one ...they do that because you can get a beeter torque on them the oem ones can give you a false reading sometimes

 

yes if you use hand tools you can do it either way , I just feel beter to hold the 8mm stud and turn the 18mm nut with a ratcheting wrench then torque to spec , but your way is good as long as you go slow !

The factory does it your way with air tools , have you ever looked at your factory struts ? they have the same type of design ...hold the nut and spin the **** out of the shaft....much faster at the factory that way

F.Y.I ... you can take some end links that have been popping for a while , take them off you car and rotate the 8mm stud and you can actually feel the ball joint clicking or popping very lightly , but when put under a load they make a lot of noise .

 

Another question:

When installing the camber bolts, do I have to put it in the top or bottom hole ? Read a few posts and it seems that there is no concesus on this.

Anyone knows what's the best ?


Also, I noticed that the Tokico's don't have the 8mm or any type of nut on top. I will I be able to hold the strut to torque the top nut ?

Thanks,

 

My adjustables have the 8mm hex head on top for holding it place during tightening. Yours should too. Hm...

As far as camber bolts, I put mine on top: I wanted the bottom to use the stock bolts as a fixed pivot point, and use the upper hole on top for making the adjustments. has not moved in over a month (since I adjusted them).

 

OK the D-Spec are now in, but have a question.

I find that the adjustemnt is very loose, I explain. When I adjust the front ones. I tight them (clockwise) until it stops and then go counter clockwise 4 turns, but when I do this the screw has no resistance it feels very loose, there's no resistance,

Is this normal ?

 

Yes it is very easy to turn the adjuster ****. To convince yourself that the adjustment is working set them at 0 turns and try driving the car