Here's the article I promised to post. I hope it helps answer some questions.
The S197 Mustang’s tendency to nose-dive is mostly due to the big, soft, rubber bushings located on the vehicle’s front lower control arms. According to the engineers at Whiteline, the factory bushing can’t absorb all of the vehicle’s weight that shifts forward so it has a tendency to flex, changing the geometry of the control arm during braking. The result is that it allows the center of gravity to move over the vehicle and push down on the front end causing nose dive.
According to Whiteline Automotive the Anti-Dive kit is not just a bushing replacement. The Whiteline urethane bushing is designed to force the inertia under braking to move along the vehicle, rather than over it, by resetting the front to rear control arm geometry. This moves the vehicle’s energy along the vehicle, rather than over it. The bushing itself is also designed to be stronger than the factory, but not as hard as a full-race bushing, making it a good compromise for street driving and the occasional weekend race.
In addition, Whiteline added a built-in camber adjustment that improves steering response. For high-speed cornering enthusiasts, this two-point static caster adjustment (up to 0.75-degrees) allows you to exit out of corners faster, which can improve your lap times at autocrosses or on the road course. The mounting bracket itself is made from aircraft grade billet aluminum that has not failed under constant road course testing and is the same material used in the company’s popular road racing suspension products.
We visited the JBA Performance Center in San Diego, California, where the owner of a 2007 model GT recently upgraded his brake system; which only helped to dramatically pronounce the vehicle’s nose dive under braking. The installation required unbolting the Mustang’s rack and pinion steering unit and moving it forward slightly. This allows enough clearance to remove the lower control arm bolts. The lower control arm is removed from the vehicle and with the aid of a press, you can remove the factory bushing. The JBA technicians used a puller to push the bushing out from its center sleeve. If you don’t do this correctly however, you’ll merely push out the outer sleeve and be left with the bushing’s fluid all over the floor and the inner rubber still attached to the sleeve around the control arm spigot.
The Whiteline Anti-Dive sleeve is pressed into place on the control arm and the new bushing is greased and slid into position. The mounting brackets allow for offset mounting washers that, depending on how they are inserted, can increase or reduce the vehicle’s caster. We decided to increase the caster to add greater steering response and installed the washers so that the offset is positioned towards the center of the vehicle.
On the street and highway, there was a dramatic reduction in the vehicle’s nose dive under moderate to hard braking. We also didn’t notice any road noise from the vehicle and the ride was not changed from stock. On the street, you don’t really notice the caster change in the steering geometry but on a short road course, we could feel the difference in the steering response when turning into corners. Exiting corners at higher speeds, however, it was easier and quicker to unwind the steering wheel and accelerate out faster.
We were concerned at first that some of the factory bushings had heat shields to protect the bushing from the heat generated by the catalytic converters. The Whiteline Anti-Dive kit comes with heat shield brackets if your Mustang is so equipped. On this 2007, there were none but after several months of driving, the owner reports no effect of heat, discoloration or distortion of the urethane bushings.
The Whiteline Anti-Dive kit retails around $308 and if you’re handy with tools and have access to a lift you can install it yourself.
Global Performance Parts
4554 128th Ave.
Holland, MI 49424
JBA Performance Center
5135 Convoy St.
San Diego, CA 92111
The factory control arm bushing is large and flexes under braking, allowing for increased nose dive.
The Anti-Dive Kit from Whiteline Suspension uses polyurethane bushings and aluminum mounts that control the weight transfer along the frame of the vehicle.
With the vehicle properly supported, remove the wheels and begin by unbolting the spindle from the lower control arm.
Loosen the clamp for the steering column U-joint. This will allow greater movement of the rack and pinion steering.
Unbolt the rack and pinion steering unit and move it forward an inch or two. This will give you enough clearance to remove the front control arm bolts.
Here you can see how the extra clearance is necessary to remove the front control arm bolts.
At the rear of the control arm, unbolt the bushing mount from the frame and the entire control arm can be removed.
Here you can see the large control arm bushing that must be removed.
Using a press and this puller, we made sure that the bushing gets pressed out from the center sleeve. If you miss, you’ll end up with fluid all over the place and the rubber bushing will still be attached.
The new Anti-Dive sleeve is inserted over the control arm spigot using a press.
The Anti-Dive urethane bushing is installed and the control arm, along with the rack and pinion unit, steering U-joint and spindle are bolted back into position.