siberian.mist

i was getting some steering wheel shake intermittently from 50+, replaced sway bar end link bushings and maybe im crazy but i still feel a very very very slight vibration at highway speeds(but definitely not as much), and i can live with it. i also have steeda sport springs, they are not as big of a drop as prokit and they are a little firmer.

i do have steeda competition end links and a j&m adj uca waiting to be installed, probably won't get around to it until july or so though.

you can easily install the end link bushings, the uca looks a little bit more difficult. you do not need adjustable lca's if you have an adjustable uca.

Archer1

A $200.00 set of FRP lowering springs (same as Eibach Pro) sure opens a can of worms... To make everything work as it's supposed to you need: 1) Camber Plates 2) Special Tie Rod Ends 3) Special Ball Joints 4) 18" or greater Wheels 5) Adjustable Panhard Rod 6) Adjustable Lower Control Arms 7) Adjustable Upper Control Arm 8) Lowered Lower Control Arm Mounts which have to be welded on. And For good measure a Front end alignment.
So far I am ok with just the camber plates. But I did cut the top nobbin off the rear bump stop and it still has only 3/4" between it and the frame at rest. Not a lot of travel! I'm not convinced this is a good mod but it does look better and some Shelby's come lowered this much without all the above mentioned hardware. So the jury is still out. I don't believe I have a pinion angle issue but those guys who jack up their truck 10" sure would. Lowering a Mustang 1 1/2" doesn't seem that radical.
It handles like it's on rails and it's smooth as a babies butt. I drove it 200 miles this weekend on some of CA's worst freeways and only have loose fillings to show for it.

johnrehder

The pinion angle needs a few degrees adjustment.

Orion_240

this is why I don't recommend just getting the new springs. Unless you drive at 25 mph you will need all the other goodies just mentioned!
Plus an alignment.

Archer1

Yeah and if you threw away your old springs :-( Not to mention all the work it would take to put the stock spring back in! The rear is not too bad but the front is a real pain if you do it in your own garage. Be sure you want to do this first.

VWILLO

I have all that front end stuff and the stock 17" bullits dont give me any problems. Also, couldn't detect any better performance, although the new parts are definately better quality. The pinion angle argument is nit-picking IMO. When driving, pinion angle is never in perfect alignment, that is why you have u-joints and any good LCA's stiffer bushing will make pinion angle change due to bushing deflection irrelevent. Only in an ideal world is the front and rear geometry stuff needed, for these cars good springs, dampers and some LCAs is all that is really needed, but man all that stuff sure looks good in the signature.

07 GT E UPP

Gee....I wonder what Sam Strano would say about this one..!!

157dB

I am pointing towards the rims.
Extrapolate on these dynamically balanced tires/rims
that have only been on there for 500 miles.
Are they aftermarket rims by any chance or OEM?
Do they have TPMS sensors in them and if so are
they attached with OEM factory crimped straps of
aftermarket worm gear clamps tightened up to 27 inch pounds?
I would suspect that the rotor clips are giving you
wheel mounting problems is aftermarket rims are being used.

VWILLO

Sam is one of the few who would notice a difference, he is a racer.

VWILLO

I have a slight vibration around 50-60 mph before and after my mods and with stock 17" Bullits and 18" Fan Blades. Everything balanced and aligned and bump steer set. Only thing left for me to try is bushings. Since I rarely drive that speed, I can live with it.