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Adjustable Pan Hard Bar ?

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Old Aug 28, 2009 | 10:36 AM
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Default Adjustable Pan Hard Bar ?

My question is- would an adjustable pan hard bar increase ride quality on rough roads.ie feel less of the bumps? Car is lowered approx 2" front & rear H&R RSS struts & springs ( car is 95percent track use )- which I otherwise love.. Thx.
Old Aug 28, 2009 | 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by 14901490
My question is- would an adjustable pan hard bar increase ride quality on rough roads.ie feel less of the bumps? Car is lowered approx 2" front & rear H&R RSS struts & springs ( car is 95percent track use )- which I otherwise love.. Thx.

No. A Watts link can... But as we discussed--you have some seriously stiff springs there--more than you need, way more in fact. It's going to ride really firm with 630/515 rates, let alone with the fact you lowered it 2". This is what I was trying to warn you about Sam....

Here's some free advice. You need to learn about dynamics and how parts work. You bought those H&R's from some guy who you think is knowledgeable. Fine, but as you know I'd have never recommended those because the springs are so stiff, and the dampers are not tuneable. You seem to buy stuff based on very vague recommendations.

Your Stillen bars are a prime example. Because of how they bolt on the axle instead of the body, you increased unsprung weight. Yes the cost is nice, but you added unsprung weight that just makes the axle more clunky over bumps and probably precludes you from running a Watts link (as it also bolts to the axle). The thing is you need to add some to get the geometry gains from the Watts, you didn't need to add the weight to get an adjustable rear bar.

In short you are taking every weight loss drug that someone claims to work, then asking "now what"? It has been suggested here, and to you directly by me that you take some time and learn. But you don't seemingly want to do that, and that makes it impossible for anyone to make a good recommendation that's actually based on performance and not just the desire for an easy sale.
Old Aug 28, 2009 | 11:39 AM
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agreed the springs may be too stiff. but not a big deal to change right? The H&R srtut(front have a combined rebound & compression clicker)recommendation actually comes via a winning Mustang race team. so I consider that a good source. Also have not tracked the car yet w new struts & springs. sO this is just my initial street impression . Going to the Glen Mon & tuesday.As I said I am overall please with the changes .But by nature am a "tweaker" & am always looking for better.. Ps are you saying IM over weight!( weight loss drug comment) KIDDING

Last edited by 14901490; Aug 28, 2009 at 11:41 AM.
Old Aug 28, 2009 | 11:49 AM
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also I did seriously consider getting the Koni sports from you. But how can I buy something that's not available ?
Old Aug 29, 2009 | 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 14901490
agreed the springs may be too stiff. but not a big deal to change right? The H&R srtut(front have a combined rebound & compression clicker)recommendation actually comes via a winning Mustang race team. so I consider that a good source. Also have not tracked the car yet w new struts & springs. sO this is just my initial street impression . Going to the Glen Mon & tuesday.As I said I am overall please with the changes .But by nature am a "tweaker" & am always looking for better.. Ps are you saying IM over weight!( weight loss drug comment) KIDDING
Curious - what winning Mustang team would that be? Are they running the stuff they told you to put on your car? I HIGHLY doubt it. 630/515? AND huge bars? I'm confident you're not going to be happy when you get on track with that setup, as it is well - insane. Who set your car up?

At 2" drop, have you corrected your geometry? Considering you are indicating you didn't even change your panhard rod i'm guessing that's a no.

Seriously, you need to be careful. At the rate you are going you are likely to hurt (a) Your car (b) yourself (c) someone else's car (d) someone else (e) all of the above.

As far as your initial ride quality question - those springs and bars will make your car ride like a dump truck. The panhard rod wont change much with all of that going on.
Old Aug 29, 2009 | 07:24 PM
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so if i do find the springs too stiff, which would you recommend?
Old Aug 29, 2009 | 07:29 PM
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actaully the 2" drop was at the fender - he said its more like 1.5 measured underneath.
Old Aug 29, 2009 | 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by RodeoFlyer
Curious - what winning Mustang team would that be? Are they running the stuff they told you to put on your car? I HIGHLY doubt it. 630/515? AND huge bars? I'm confident you're not going to be happy when you get on track with that setup, as it is well - insane. Who set your car up?

At 2" drop, have you corrected your geometry? Considering you are indicating you didn't even change your panhard rod i'm guessing that's a no.

Seriously, you need to be careful. At the rate you are going you are likely to hurt (a) Your car (b) yourself (c) someone else's car (d) someone else (e) all of the above.

As far as your initial ride quality question - those springs and bars will make your car ride like a dump truck. The panhard rod wont change much with all of that going on.
I do drive within my limits & am cautious whenever I make changes to the car to get comfortable with them .I am REALLY not a Yahoo on the track

Last edited by 14901490; Aug 30, 2009 at 06:52 AM.
Old Aug 30, 2009 | 03:15 AM
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There are 101 factors in choosing your spring rates, your bars being just one.

I knew something was fishy. I looked up the H&R kit you are talking about, and it uses conventional springs. That makes the rates make a lot more sense. A loose rule of thumb is to halve those numbers in comparison to coilover springs, giving you roughly* 315/250, which isn't too bad, maybe a little soft up front in my experience - but those big bars are going to hurt you. If it were me i'd put stock bars back on, or at least take them with you. One wheel bumps will really upset the car with bars that big, and you sacrifice grip for a reduction in body roll, which isn't really a good trade.

Soft springs or soft bars - pick one.

Last edited by RodeoFlyer; Aug 30, 2009 at 03:30 AM.
Old Aug 30, 2009 | 05:49 AM
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Originally Posted by RodeoFlyer
There are 101 factors in choosing your spring rates, your bars being just one.

I knew something was fishy. I looked up the H&R kit you are talking about, and it uses conventional springs. That makes the rates make a lot more sense. A loose rule of thumb is to halve those numbers in comparison to coilover springs, giving you roughly* 315/250, which isn't too bad, maybe a little soft up front in my experience - but those big bars are going to hurt you. If it were me i'd put stock bars back on, or at least take them with you. One wheel bumps will really upset the car with bars that big, and you sacrifice grip for a reduction in body roll, which isn't really a good trade.

Soft springs or soft bars - pick one.
The Stillen bars are adjustable & he set them all the way soft for best grip to start. Figured I'd go from there.

ALSO - THANKS for taking the time to look up & clarify the spring rates - it IS appreciated!

Do you mean just putting the stock REAR bar back on , or both?

Last edited by 14901490; Aug 30, 2009 at 06:35 AM.



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