planning on lowering my gt to get it sitting low and level any thoughts on the best set of lowering springs.it has stock 18's on it now but plan on putting 20's on it later.

 

best is such a relative term....

what are you going for looks? handling? will up upgrade the shocks/struts too?

 

Big Poppa, if you want to lower your ride but not go crazy with the suspension mods, I recommend the Roush Stage 1 Springs. They are DESIGNED to work with your stock Ford suspension AND without putting any additional strain or wear on them. They will lower your new Steed 1/1/4" in the rear and 3/4 - 1" in the front. With a correct four wheel alignment, you will NOT need an adjustible panhard rod and with the alignment there will be no shifting of the rear end from side to side. The ride is more firm than stock. It is similiar to a Track Pack car.

I was able to talk my dealer into installing the Roush Stage 1 springs BEFORE I took new car delivery. The dealer will also be honoring the 1 year Roush warranty. With Jack Roush being so closely coupled with Ford, it is nice to get a suspension kit that the dealer has confidence in and I get a warranty without a hassle!

There are a lot of other excellent choices besides Roush so good luck in your research and choice.

 

any of you major brands are a great choice.

FRPP
Steeda
Eibach

With springs it is suggested that you get matching shocks and struts. Stock shocks are designed to work with the stock springs. Also, relocation brackets, adjustable control arms, and pan. bar are a good idea too. Just to be safe. The best thing to do with suspension is lots and lots of research!! There is soooo many different choices out there it can be very overwhelming. I pieced together different brands to make my full suspension, if i were to do it again i would go with the FRPP package. Has everything you need, for a nice price.

 

https://mustangforums.com/forum/s197...ale-cheap.html

 

Why do you say the FRPP package has everything? It does not as far as I can tell. No adjustable pan hard bar; No LCA relocation brackets, No upper strut mount bearings, etc.

General question - how far does the Camber go out when you drop 1 to 1.5 inches and do not install caster/camber plates?

 

I installed the Steeda Sport Springs about three weeks ago and they were just what I was looking for. The rear came down about 1.25 inches and the front came down an inch. It wasn't drastic but just enough and the ride quality has stayed the same.

 

KSVENOM: Quote:
"With a correct four wheel alignment, you will NOT need an adjustible panhard rod and with the alignment there will be no shifting of the rear end from side to side. The ride is more firm than stock. It is similiar to a Track Pack car."

The FRPP is good all round package that has matched components that work well together. Sure, it is not hard-core but the person who wants a reasonable compromise brtween street and track at a decent price, it makes sense. I use it on track days and nobody says I am slow with it. If you find the ride is too stiff, try 30 psi in the tires and pump 'em up a bit when the spirit moves you. Some people go overboard on handling mods that won't be felt if you just want a street car.

The front camber goes to -1.4 on my "06. Again I find this a good compromise between wear and excellant turn-in for improved handling. I don't reccommend resetting the camber with camber bolts. If you want to be able to adjust camber, go with the plates. But in my opinion, don't bother.

I don't understand the term 4-wheel alignment on the Stang. Only the fronts are adjustable and I suspect an adjustable panhard may be required to center the rear. Try lowering the car first as factory manufacturing tolerances may work in your favor.

Cheers.

 

How do you perform a correct wheel alignment without an adjustable pan hard bar on a lowered car? If you lower the car, the pan hard bar will push the axle over towards the drivers side, will it not?

I am just trying to figure out how this all works. I would like to lower the car, only about 1 inch or so, but I want to keep the geometry all correct.

 

When you lower the car, yes the car moves over, but if it were built slightly off due production tolerances, this may actually line everything up or bring it close enough. I have noticed some Shelby 500s off-set without being lowered.
I say do the lowering first and then measure. Might save you the cost of a new panhard bar. Just a suggestion. My '06 required the adjustable when lowered and your's may too.

BTW, the FRPP (nee Eibach) springs lower the car 1.5 ".

Cheers.