Lowering
11-18-2009, 08:03 AM
#2
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 40
Adjustable Panhard is all you should need as you will be about 1/4 to 1/2 inch off after you lower. Make sure you use loctite on it too.
I would suggest looking into adjustable shocks/struts if you can spare another $500. I road around for about 8 months on just my pro-kit drop before I added them. It is so nice to not feel every single bump again. Also it would be good to only have to mess with the suspension one time and not have to take it apart 2-3 times.
I would suggest looking into adjustable shocks/struts if you can spare another $500. I road around for about 8 months on just my pro-kit drop before I added them. It is so nice to not feel every single bump again. Also it would be good to only have to mess with the suspension one time and not have to take it apart 2-3 times.
Last edited by esab; 11-18-2009 at 08:07 AM. Reason: added shock/strut stuff
11-18-2009, 08:15 AM
#3
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: pa
Posts: 386
Alright so i dont need those correction bolts right? just adj panhard bar? any reccomendations? BMR, Steeda? i have till summer to get the shocks/struts but we'll see,i mean the stock ride with the springs was bad? also i think i wanna tackle that horrible bump steer lol do i need relocation brackets or nah just LCA? and also do i need UCA?
11-18-2009, 09:34 AM
#4
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 40
You do not need any bolts unless you go lower than pro-kit. For panhard bars, any work great, adjustable being better IMO. Like I said above though, make sure you slap some loctite on it when you tighten it up.
The ride was not too bad wih just the springs/phb, but you will definately feel the difference. My wife hated getting in my car after I dropped it because of the ride. This was actually a bonus as I didnt have to worry about her taking my car for anything. Now that I added the shocks/struts that smoothed out the ride, she is back to trying to steal if every so often.
I can't answer about the LCS question, will leave that for someone else to hopefully tackle.
The ride was not too bad wih just the springs/phb, but you will definately feel the difference. My wife hated getting in my car after I dropped it because of the ride. This was actually a bonus as I didnt have to worry about her taking my car for anything. Now that I added the shocks/struts that smoothed out the ride, she is back to trying to steal if every so often.
I can't answer about the LCS question, will leave that for someone else to hopefully tackle.
11-18-2009, 09:45 AM
#5
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: pa
Posts: 386
okay sweet, ill see about investing in the Shocks/struts..So i gotta get a Adj Panhard bar, okay, did you do the install yourself? how do you adjust the panhard bar correct? i never done this before so i would'nt know how to do it, is it hard?..thanks bro
11-18-2009, 10:32 AM
#6
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 40
I had a friend help me out on the install. First time we did it was my car, but we have done his car and I did 2 others since.
Please note this is definately not a "professional" installation and there will probable be people shaking their heads reading this.
1. Car should be on jackstands.
2. Take your stock PHB off, lay it on the floor.
3. Put the adjustable next to it and adjust it for the same length to get a start length, only tighten one side (rightside was my choice) leaving the other to adjust once installed.
4. Put the A-PHB on the car and measure/eyeball your fender to wheel distance. You can use a measuring tape and string method for best results.
5. Tie a nut with a length of string 8-10 inches long. Hold the string to the top center of your rear fender so the nut dangles to the center of your wheel. Measure the distance from your wheel to the string. Do the same to the other side and adjust the PHB so they match.
Make sure to loctite the PHB adjustable nuts.
Make a line across the nuts and PHB with a sharpie just so you can check to make sure it has not moved from vibration. Shouldn't with the Loctite, but I like to be sure.
Please note this is definately not a "professional" installation and there will probable be people shaking their heads reading this.
1. Car should be on jackstands.
2. Take your stock PHB off, lay it on the floor.
3. Put the adjustable next to it and adjust it for the same length to get a start length, only tighten one side (rightside was my choice) leaving the other to adjust once installed.
4. Put the A-PHB on the car and measure/eyeball your fender to wheel distance. You can use a measuring tape and string method for best results.
5. Tie a nut with a length of string 8-10 inches long. Hold the string to the top center of your rear fender so the nut dangles to the center of your wheel. Measure the distance from your wheel to the string. Do the same to the other side and adjust the PHB so they match.
Make sure to loctite the PHB adjustable nuts.
Make a line across the nuts and PHB with a sharpie just so you can check to make sure it has not moved from vibration. Shouldn't with the Loctite, but I like to be sure.
Last edited by esab; 11-18-2009 at 10:34 AM. Reason: spelling > Me
11-18-2009, 01:56 PM
#9
I had a friend help me out on the install. First time we did it was my car, but we have done his car and I did 2 others since.
Please note this is definately not a "professional" installation and there will probable be people shaking their heads reading this.
1. Car should be on jackstands.
2. Take your stock PHB off, lay it on the floor.
3. Put the adjustable next to it and adjust it for the same length to get a start length, only tighten one side (rightside was my choice) leaving the other to adjust once installed.
4. Put the A-PHB on the car and measure/eyeball your fender to wheel distance. You can use a measuring tape and string method for best results.
5. Tie a nut with a length of string 8-10 inches long. Hold the string to the top center of your rear fender so the nut dangles to the center of your wheel. Measure the distance from your wheel to the string. Do the same to the other side and adjust the PHB so they match.
Make sure to loctite the PHB adjustable nuts.
Make a line across the nuts and PHB with a sharpie just so you can check to make sure it has not moved from vibration. Shouldn't with the Loctite, but I like to be sure.
Please note this is definately not a "professional" installation and there will probable be people shaking their heads reading this.
1. Car should be on jackstands.
2. Take your stock PHB off, lay it on the floor.
3. Put the adjustable next to it and adjust it for the same length to get a start length, only tighten one side (rightside was my choice) leaving the other to adjust once installed.
4. Put the A-PHB on the car and measure/eyeball your fender to wheel distance. You can use a measuring tape and string method for best results.
5. Tie a nut with a length of string 8-10 inches long. Hold the string to the top center of your rear fender so the nut dangles to the center of your wheel. Measure the distance from your wheel to the string. Do the same to the other side and adjust the PHB so they match.
Make sure to loctite the PHB adjustable nuts.
Make a line across the nuts and PHB with a sharpie just so you can check to make sure it has not moved from vibration. Shouldn't with the Loctite, but I like to be sure.
The BMR adjustable pan-hard bar (PHR006) is really nice and allows for easy on the car adjustment. Scoll down the page about half way.
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/2005MustangSUSPENSION.htm
Camber Bolts, In regards to the Eibach Pro-Kit (even for my GT500), I've heard some say you need them and others say you don't. For ~$26, I ended up buying and installing them on mine because I didn't want to put everything together, go to align the car, need them and not have them. I think you'll hear those that bought them and installed them say you do and those that didn't say you don't....catch 22. I personally know several of each.
11-18-2009, 05:20 PM
#10
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: pa
Posts: 386
Yeah that BMR sounds good, im also gonna buy the bolts, where did you buy them? The install sounds pretty easy, the only thing that cunfuses me in the string deal..Am i mesureing from the center of center of the tire to the string? then use that and adj the panhard bar? or im just makeing sure the ruler lines, are up straight up with the string..sry if i sound like a complete moron if im wrong lol...thanks for the help guys im thankfull