More Spring questions
I am ready to buy some springs but not sure which ones are best for me. I do want to lower the car but i dont want it slammed since its my DD. Id like a good stance on it, as well as much better handling but not to the point the ride is so stiff the car rattles apart.
also I am thinking since im doing a driving school later this month and will most likely be hooked on road racing, im thinking i might do shocks too later down the road.
I just found this forum section yesterday so I think I am pretty much hooked on autocross/road racing...lots of great information on this site. any advice is appreciated.
also I am thinking since im doing a driving school later this month and will most likely be hooked on road racing, im thinking i might do shocks too later down the road.
I just found this forum section yesterday so I think I am pretty much hooked on autocross/road racing...lots of great information on this site. any advice is appreciated.
I've been looking around myself too, and I use it as a DD. The steeda springs caught my eye. They lower about 1" which seems to be good for our needs. They have an ultralite and a sports edition. Still looking into more info on them. I am having a roush front fascias installed with a chin spoiler and waiting to get that back though and see what my clearance looks like.
You'll be getting involved with "one-time use fasteners", so one less time or one less trip to buy the bolts (which aren't exactly cheap) is enough reason by itself to do the front job all at once.
Out back, the springs and shocks can be installed entirely separately. But if you do the springs first, expect slightly/somewhat shorter length of time before you feel that the shocks aren't giving enough rebound damping. Shocks before springs would be the better sequence, particularly if you're planning on getting adjustables. FWIW, Koni yellows set at about 1/4 to 3/8 turn from full soft work quite well with the OE rear springs.
As already noted, camber bolts or plates may be required in order to get the alignment back in spec (or to preferred settings), and it is possible that an adjustable-length PHB may be required in order to center the rear axle. Though with a mild drop you might not need one or the other or possibly neither one of these "fixes". But you'll still want to check the toe setting, and you'll probably have to adjust it a tad.
A word on camber bolts - I can't exactly recommend these if you're going to drive the car frequently at autocross or track days, as even the full-diameter bolts on the earlier cars (at least up through the 2007 model year) may themselves be marginal for those activities (note that the earlier coarse-thread strut to knuckle bolts have been upgraded since to fine-thread bolts with a higher installation torque spec). My opinion is that the smaller bolt cross sections in camber/crash bolts will not fare any better than the coarse thread OE bolts, and probably not as well. Camber bolts are *probably* good enough for most peoples' street driving, though.
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; Jan 4, 2010 at 09:06 AM.
Norm. I lowered my car last spring, and the only bolts I replaced were the camber bolts. You say some bolts are one time use only. What are they? I'll be doing the shocks/struts this spring.
OP, if you can afford it, do it all at once. Your stock shocks will wear out fairly quickly.
OP, if you can afford it, do it all at once. Your stock shocks will wear out fairly quickly.
I did mine at different times. Last February I put on Ultra-lites only. Over that period of time the shocks just didn't feel adequate. I replaced the stockers with Koni Str.t's last night and the attachment to the road has greatly improved. My upper strut mounts never came apart when replacing the springs so I got lucky, but when I did the struts and shocks last night I replaced for the Steeda HD upper mounts. I'm very pleased.
first I've heard of this also, read alot of posts about lowering the front and rear of Mustangs. If there are one time use bolts I'd like to know which they are.


