svtsupremecy

thats what I wanted to know guys. If im going to do it, im going to do it the right way. Ive been reading more and I think im going to give Sam Strano a call and have him piece me out a small suspension package.

are there any cheap brake ducting kits? or should i just make my own?

Norm Peterson

About those one-time use bolts - it would be in the factory shop manual (which i can't load on my work computer - sorry). But I'm pretty sure that the strut to knuckle bolts are.


Norm

imfamousjim

any of the nuts that have that small plastic ring on the top are "one time use". To my memory, every suspension nut has it. I just used loctite when reinstalling my suspension with my Koni Yellows.

sounds good man, Sam will hook you up. I just blew out my budget on springs replacing a bent control arm the previous owner "forgot" to tell me about, but as soon as i can I'll be ordering my springs from him.

Sam Strano

If you use threadlocker you are find re-using the bolts. In fact the bolts aren't the issue it's the nuts that lose some of their "pinch", which is why you use threadlocker.

There are a lot of decent springs. I have to say I use, more than anything for street cars Steeda Sports or Ultralites these days. I like working travel and front to rear rates that are well balanced and not super stiff. I like my suspensions to work, not just jump and jitter around. I've got a lot of other options too, like Eibach, H&R, Vogtland too before even getting into coil-overs.

The stock dampers are by far the weakest link on the entire car, the next weakest is the rear bar, and then the springs. If you keep you eyes peeled, like in a few posts above you'll see those that have later added good dampers in place of stock (regardless of lowering or stock springs) you see to a person they report a big, big difference.

Must you change dampers when changing springs? No. But then I'd have already considered the dampers a must change on their own if you really want the suspension to work well (including ride, not just handling).

6-Speed

With regards to the front struts the shop manual indicates the following are to be discarded and replaced with new hardware:

1. Stabilizer Bar link - upper nut
2. Strut-to-wheel spindle flag nut
3. Strut-to-wheel spindle bolt
4. Strut rod nut

I purchase most of my OEM parts including hardware mail order from Silverstate Ford Parts at a substantial discount.

http://www.silverstatefordparts.com/...?siteid=214290

BadSteed

I hear guys talk about all kinds of springs and lowering systems, Not much is said about Roush, Yet they are one of your sponcers. Does the Roush systems perform as good or better than the others? I see the spring rates are not avalable for comparison. What do you think about them?

Sam Strano

I think that they are nothing special. And yes, I could sell Roush too, my biggest warehouse has Roush stuff in stock.

The springs are unknown rates. The dampers, unknown build quality and certainly no lifetime warranty. The swaybars aren't adjustable and are just way heavier than is necessary. I'd personally put Roush ahead of say Saleen because Saleen does even dumber things like puts on a really big front bar without touching the rear (not smart, and not what the car needs at all).

I put together kits with known parts. Things I can rate and base setups off of. That includes things like spring rates, bar stiffness, type of damping, knowing I can trust the dampers to last, etc. Basically what do you know about the Roush stuff other than the name? And is that name any better than say Koni or Steeda or Eibach or H&R or, or, or?