marcuskeeler

Anybody any experience with the Lakewood Watts linkage? I'm sniffing round a Watts setup for this year and this seems, on paper at least, to be a reasonably priced and well designed product.
It's half the price of the heavyweight Steeda item plus I cannot use my FRPP Swaybar with the Steeda either which adds additionally cost..

http://www.lakewoodindustries.com/Pr...minselection=1

colin06

yep.. I put one on last spring. It's been a much better handling improvement. The only issues I had was that the middle bolt came loose and was making some serious clunking..I had it re-tightend, but am not convinced it will not happen again. There is also alot of chasis noise

Sam Strano

I'd suggest a Fays2 instead: http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=79&ModelID=5

First, the Lakewood is not really very stout... in fact they stopped making them for a while after a number of failures. As you can see the Fays2 is a beefier part.

Second, the quality of the parts in a Fays2 is much higher (like for instance, dual bearings in the propeller/bellcrank and quality stuff like Aurora or FK rod-ends.

Third, the FRPP rear bar is an issue with any of the 3 frame type Watts links (they all mount to the same position on the car)....

Finally, I have the solution to the rear bar issue. I made my own rear bar (and a matching front as well). One reason was specifically to fit with Watts links like these. My bar is the same diameter as you FRPP bar. But the Strano Performance 8337 works with the Watts link by design. It is hollow (less weight), and it's 3-way adjustable too. The FRPP is solid and non-adjustable. And as you lower you your RC, you tend to want more and more roll stiffness to counter for balance.

Rear bar if you'd like to see it: http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=80&ModelID=5

And if you are after a matched set instead: http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...=80&PartID=717

colin06

^ I'm calling you to get a Fays2.

Sam Strano

The Fays2 will still make some noise because it does use rod-ends (but high quality, tight ones, not cheapies like Lakewood).

If you want quiet as possible, the Steeda is the one to look at for that because they use urethane bushings at the end of the arms instead of rod-ends.

Sleeper_08

+1 to Sam's comments about the noise from the rod ends on the FAYS2. As I also have only 1 rubber bushing left in the rear suspension so there are also lots of other places I get noise from.

I live with the noise because of the significant improvement in terms of my comfort level with the way the car feels on the track with the FAYS2.

marcuskeeler

Hmmm, I specifically asked lakewood directly about clashing with my FRPP bar and they said they work fine together... So you're saying they are not being truthful?

Sam Strano

I'm saying that in the past some folks have had issues with FRPP bars and others, hitting their watts links frames. Does that mean you will? No. Does that mean I'm calling anyone a liar? No. The Lakewood is smaller than the other two because the frame is less robust, maybe that'll give them a touch more room. Maybe they were just telling you what you wanted to hear. How do you know the tested it? I haven't tested every bar with every possible combination myself.

marcuskeeler

Well I don't know if they tested it of course, I just asked the question and they responded.

There's no need to lose it, I'm merely asking for informed help is all,

I see you seem to have a healthy dislike for the Lakewood.

So, the FAYs fouls on the FRPP swaybar as well then yes?

Sam Strano

I'm not sure why you think I'm losing it. But you did ask me if I was calling someone a liar, which is pretty pointed you know.

I have a healthy dislike for anyone who makes things I don't think are up to scratch, don't care what name is attached to it.

When the suspension droops, all the bars I know of that have bends in them to fit on convertibles can contact the frame of the Watts links... which is one reason my bar won't fit a convertible... I don't run those extra bends.