Resurrection #2:

I'm about to do exactly the same thing - (Steeda) front LCA and (Steeda) bump-steer kit. Got any tips, tricks or hints for me?

Any special tools? I have an electric impact wrench and a 150-ftlb torque wrench (might not be big enough).

Where can I find instructions for front LCA R&R? (My car is a 2012.)

 

With my experience, the two rack bolts were very hard to get off. My 300 foot pounds impact wrench did not touch them. On the first nut I had a hard time loosening it up with a 3-foot breaker bar. The other bolt I rounded the threads and had to use a chisel hammer to cut the bolt. If I could do it again I would have loosened the tie rods and move the tie rod to get to the bolt see previous posts. Also is would have used a GearWrench 9921 21mm Flex-Head Combination Ratcheting Wrench for the 4 nuts on the large bushing. I would of saved a least 1 hour in removing and putting them back on using that wrench. Because you can only get at a 1/8 of a turn each try. I bought new rack bolts and nuts at the dealer. Thay gave me the right bolts, but the nuts threads were wrong, make sure you check them. Last thing, make sure you use some type of lock tight on the old bolts to make sure they do not loosen up.

 

The rack bolts are removed from above, do not try to remove the nut. You should be able to reach in from the side and over top of the k member to put a ratchet on the bolt, wrench will get in there too.

I went out and bought an impact gun to get the nuts off, when it didn't budge, that was my clue that they're welded to the frame.

 

Just replaced a-arms with M-3075-D cobra units and stock length NAPA springs on my '96. First of all, my harbor freight impact was invaluable as usual and made a lot of steps much faster including wheel lugs, BJ nut and tie rod nuts, and especially the front a-arm bolt. But it offered no help on the rear a-arm bolt as I had no clearance to get to either the nut nor the bolt head with it. Perhaps with the right swivels and extensions, but I only have regular extensions and wobble extensions.

Second, this is a Michigan car and I was very worried about the a-arm bolts be seized in the bushing sleeves. NOT AN ISSUE! Somehow. I did make sure to unscrew them from the bolt head side (to make sure they weren't seized) but upon removal the black oxide finish looked basically brand new still :-D

Third. Front a-arm bolts and steering rack. For me the solution was simple and easy. Remove the rack bolts and pop the outter tie rod ends allowing my to slide the entire rack forward. Probably would have even more room if you d/c the steering shaft but as it was I had just enough room to persuade the a-arm bolts out.

For those who are looking to tackle this job, plan two days. The first day will be long and hard as you figure it out on the first side. Day two should be MUCH MUCH smoother. Two more tips. Use MFE's 2-jack method for spring installation! The rear a-arm bolt interfered with my k-member to body bolt. Just spun on the impact and could not find access to the back side. So I just hit the shoulder of the a-arm bolt with a angle grinder. *JUST* enough room to get it in and out that way.

 

I will be doing this soon. Lots of good information in this thread.

 

Can anybody tell me what size threads are the steering rack bolts ??. Are they metric or sae. Thank you.

 

I'd be reaching for the metric sockets tray first . . .




Norm

 

The bolts on my 1996 front a-arms took 24mm, the nuts 21mm. This was the same size as the hardware on the 2003 Cobra arms that went in.

 

Ok, the treads on the bolt are 1.75 mm. Thanks