Need help fixing CAMBER...
#1
Need help fixing CAMBER...
Camber is 1.5 degrees off right now...
Is this all I need to fix it? SPC EZ Cam XR 81260
( http://www.jegs.com/i/Specialty+Prod...81260/10002/-1 )
Just bring these bolts to the shop and get another alignment to fix my camber?
Is this all I need to fix it? SPC EZ Cam XR 81260
( http://www.jegs.com/i/Specialty+Prod...81260/10002/-1 )
Just bring these bolts to the shop and get another alignment to fix my camber?
Last edited by project85; 03-12-2010 at 08:29 AM.
#4
driver side is at -2.0
I notice a bit of negative wear on the driver side tire and no wear on the passenger side...
so I assume -0.5 is a good degree to be in
Last edited by project85; 03-10-2010 at 11:43 AM.
#5
-2? Jeez. Just for reference, I run mine at -1 on the street and I am gonna get it set back to stock and make a small clip for the top so I can throw them to -1.2 at the track. The wear on the inside of the tire is too much for me, especially with how I drive. Even though you didn't buy them, I would recommend some HD mounts. Makes adjusting the camber just that much easier.
#6
Yes it installs in the upper side of the spindle depending on where the lobe is set you have +/- 2.0 degrees of adjusment there are 2 other options you can get the camber plates which will accomplish the same thing for about $200 or as I found out at the aligment shop the Hunter Alignment machine gave a option of notching the holes where these bolts go in (personally dont like the idea of this option for safety reasons). That being said the shop I used had used these type of offset bolts on other lowered applications and the owner of the shop was happy I brought em in they are the easiest/cheapest/safest option to get the results you want. Btw he was easily able to set my front end align back to stock specs even with the amount of drop achieved with the Pro kit.
#7
Yes it installs in the upper side of the spindle depending on where the lobe is set you have +/- 2.0 degrees of adjusment there are 2 other options you can get the camber plates which will accomplish the same thing for about $200 or as I found out at the aligment shop the Hunter Alignment machine gave a option of notching the holes where these bolts go in (personally dont like the idea of this option for safety reasons). That being said the shop I used had used these type of offset bolts on other lowered applications and the owner of the shop was happy I brought em in they are the easiest/cheapest/safest option to get the results you want. Btw he was easily able to set my front end align back to stock specs even with the amount of drop achieved with the Pro kit.
I'll go with the EZ CAM bolts... I was just making sure cuz I didn't wanna buy them only to find out they won't work with aftermarket struts
THANKS FOR THE HELP
Last edited by project85; 03-10-2010 at 07:02 PM.
#9
Miscellaneous notes . . .
That -1.5° difference between R and L cambers is the number that shows up as "cross-camber" on the alignment printouts. Ford says this value should be less than 0.7°, which still seems a bit "sloppy".
Changing camber also affects the toe setting, more in some cars than in others. So after the camber is corrected, make sure that the toe at least gets checked.
-0.5° camber is a pretty mild setting, but if you do a lot more hard braking than hard cornering it's probably a good place to be. It's not all that far from Ford's factory-preferred setting of -0.75° and well within the acceptable range (anywhere between -0.25° and -1.25°). If your driving fits this description, you should be OK with correcting camber via crash/camber bolts. For driving that involves more frequent hard cornering . . . there are better solutions.
I doubt that any 'notching' would have amounted to much, just a slight ovalling of the hole in the appropriate direction (maybe 1/16"). That's enough to have concerns about possible 'slippage', since you lose the benefit of normal hole tolerancing on limiting it (duh) and loss of the alignment setting, but not about loss of structural integrity of the strut.
Norm
That -1.5° difference between R and L cambers is the number that shows up as "cross-camber" on the alignment printouts. Ford says this value should be less than 0.7°, which still seems a bit "sloppy".
Changing camber also affects the toe setting, more in some cars than in others. So after the camber is corrected, make sure that the toe at least gets checked.
-0.5° camber is a pretty mild setting, but if you do a lot more hard braking than hard cornering it's probably a good place to be. It's not all that far from Ford's factory-preferred setting of -0.75° and well within the acceptable range (anywhere between -0.25° and -1.25°). If your driving fits this description, you should be OK with correcting camber via crash/camber bolts. For driving that involves more frequent hard cornering . . . there are better solutions.
I doubt that any 'notching' would have amounted to much, just a slight ovalling of the hole in the appropriate direction (maybe 1/16"). That's enough to have concerns about possible 'slippage', since you lose the benefit of normal hole tolerancing on limiting it (duh) and loss of the alignment setting, but not about loss of structural integrity of the strut.
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 03-11-2010 at 06:56 AM.
#10
Something is wrong here. Was the car in an accident? It seems that maybe your subframe (K-member) has shifted towards the drivers side. The springs themselves did not cause your camber to be that out of whack.
Dave
Dave