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Building a track stang

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Old 03-25-2010, 07:48 AM
  #11  
Argonaut
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Originally Posted by scapegoat
now, if this guy is intending on getting serious with track driving he shouldn't even be touching his mustang. drop a couple grand and pick up a miata. track it, autocross it, etc.

not only will it be more fun around a course than a mustang, it's better equipped to learn on. and when you do get into modding the suspension based on your skill level, you'll be better able to feel the differences.
LOL....more fun in your eyes maybe but not in mine. Learning throttle control of a powerful rear drive car is a big part of the fun for me. Feeling the torque climb as my back is pressed into the seat is also part of the fun. Planting my foot all the way thru a corner with no fear of oversteer...not so much fun.

While I'll agree the Miata and others like it are great track toys, especially if you are on a budget...I won't agree they are more fun. Minor quibble though...I understand your overall point. When learning high performance driving, starting out in a Miata makes a lot of sense if you have budget, space, etc for the extra car. Many successful racers and AX'ers have done so but just as many haven't.
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Old 03-25-2010, 09:17 AM
  #12  
Philostang
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Mmmmm....throttle control....yummy!

I have to agree, there is something rather grand about feeling the torque come on at will.
That's also part of why I think you eventually want more out of your powerplant...eventually the thirst for more on-demand grunt gets to you. And it's driving me crazy. =)
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Old 03-25-2010, 12:45 PM
  #13  
BAMFingOh10
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Originally Posted by scapegoat
now, if this guy is intending on getting serious with track driving he shouldn't even be touching his mustang. drop a couple grand and pick up a miata. track it, autocross it, etc.

not only will it be more fun around a course than a mustang, it's better equipped to learn on. and when you do get into modding the suspension based on your skill level, you'll be better able to feel the differences.
Alright I'm just downright saddened by this. Check out this test using Steeda Stage 3 suspension (going in my car in less than a month) and learn.
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Old 03-25-2010, 02:42 PM
  #14  
Norm Peterson
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Wish I could figure out just what I'm supposed to learn from an article about upgrading an IRS Mustang from the previous generation that I can directly apply to improving a current stick-axle car.


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Old 03-25-2010, 02:46 PM
  #15  
gmoran1469
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Not looking for driving advice or which car to start out with advice. Asked a specific question, only interested in specific answers. I was curious if there was a big difference between the two once the pony is upgraded. Apparently there isn't. Saves me some trouble.

Starting with a 1985 RX-7, moving up to a S197 with at least GT standard HP.

Strictly a trailered track car.

Don't need advice on driving either. I handle myself on the track pretty well considering I am running times way faster than the Miata's, 944's, and even some of the GT2 class in my street mustang.

I haven't decided on the final list of equipment for the build so actual coil-overs and parts will vary but here is a rough rundown:

Coil-over kit, rotor cooling, DBA Slotted 2 piece rotors, not sure about wheels but will probably run with the 18x9.5 steeda ultra's, goodridge SS lines, umi 1055 panhard, Strano sway bar stage 3 kit, CAI, Tune, Steeda HD mounts, you see where I am going with this, or at least I hope you do. Any other recommended upgrades. I run all this except the coil-overs, 2-piece slotted rotors, and the Sway bars on my street car.
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Old 03-25-2010, 03:52 PM
  #16  
candymanjl
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if money isn't an option start looking at part to drop some weight. BMR makes a lot of parts that replace stock parts to help you lose weight. plus a lot of their parts take weight off the front, helps balance the car some more. they also make some frame braces that help stiffen the chassis. a single piece aluminum drive shaft will drop some weight too. some forged race wheels will help lower the total weight of the car too.

dropping weight is what I'd be looking at personally but it get's pretty pricey pretty quick. if it's a track only trailered car and the rules let you do it then start to strip that thing down. get rid of all the extra power stuff and get some lightweight seats, that kinda stuff. I bet there's a lot of weight that can be removed.

for the rear end the Watts link looks like a really cool setup but I don't know if it's a noticeable difference from the upgraded panhard bar or not, for the money it better be! the concept seems better and makes sense to me but maybe someone with more experience could go into detail on that one.
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Old 03-25-2010, 05:05 PM
  #17  
marcuskeeler
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I personally wouldn't build a F/I car for the track. Mine IS Blown but I did that before I realised I'd be trackday'ing it. Had I realised that in the 'beginning' I would have left her N/A.
Sure, the power is nice but they do get warm and heat soak can be a big spoiler on warm days, forcing the ECU to pull spark, and then you're circulating with the Neons.
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Old 03-25-2010, 05:17 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by candymanjl

for the rear end the Watts link looks like a really cool setup but I don't know if it's a noticeable difference from the upgraded panhard bar or not, for the money it better be! the concept seems better and makes sense to me but maybe someone with more experience could go into detail on that one.
I ran an upgraded PHB and brace my first season but was not happy with how the rear end behaved, especially on transitions such as through a chicane. I put in a FAYS2 Watt's Link for my second season and am much happeir with the feel of the rear end.
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Old 03-25-2010, 05:28 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by marcuskeeler
I personally wouldn't build a F/I car for the track. Mine IS Blown but I did that before I realised I'd be trackday'ing it. Had I realised that in the 'beginning' I would have left her N/A.
Sure, the power is nice but they do get warm and heat soak can be a big spoiler on warm days, forcing the ECU to pull spark, and then you're circulating with the Neons.
Marcus and I run on the same tracks but have different opinions on this one. I specifically had mine delivered from the dealer with a Roush SC installed. It has a mild boost (5 lb) but with an intercooler raises the stock 300 HP to 445 HP at the flywheel.

The reason I went SC was that I was not going to get myself into the situation where I was on someone's tail through all of the twisty bits and then when we got to the straight they just pulled away and wouldn't let me past. Been there done that in my brother's 1979 911S and it was no fun.

For example here is my brother in my car chasing a Z06;

http://www.youtube.com/user/frederic...22/HtwXgKPy5hY

In this case the Z06 wouldn't let him past but everyone watching knew he should have!

Last edited by Sleeper_08; 03-25-2010 at 10:00 PM.
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Old 03-25-2010, 09:44 PM
  #20  
zero2sixd
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Originally Posted by gmoran1469
Don't need advice on driving either. I handle myself on the track pretty well considering I am running times way faster than the Miata's, 944's, and even some of the GT2 class in my street mustang.
If I had a nickel for everybody who thought they were Mario-@#$@#-Andretti and were wrong I'd be a very rich man; look out Bill Gates. Everybody can use advice on driving. Everybody. The sooner you learn that the better driver you'll be.
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