Building a track stang
03-26-2010, 12:10 AM
#21
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,190
03-26-2010, 08:47 AM
#22
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 738
I was looking at the Watt's and wasn't sure but it may be an option now. The PHB causes the rear to get a lil squirrley at times but it's not to bad. We plan on picking up a flood insurance total and rebuilding it.
03-26-2010, 11:18 AM
#23
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 100
Regarding the Watt's issue, I have been wondering how big a difference a Watt's link would make myself. Then my OE trak-lok differential wore out (well, to be correct has-been-wearing out) and I replaced it with a T2R. I was surprised by the difference that made in stability and grip in a bumpy corner. So much so, that I'm back to not seeing the need for a Watts link. What was happening is that as a tire would unweight due to a mid-corner bump, the torque from the engine would spin it and the car would feel unstable (i.e. required steering input). The T2R addresses a lot of the instability.
Not saying the Watts wouldn't make it even better, just that I'm not sure I would notice as a big a difference in mid corner stability as I did going from a worn out trak-lok diff to the T2R.
FWIW, the trak-loc differential barely made it 6K miles of driving to/from events and the autocross/track events themselves before the clutches were toast. I think the real killer was probably autocross, but that's just a guess.
03-26-2010, 12:36 PM
#24
Former Sponsor
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,936
if money isn't an option start looking at part to drop some weight. BMR makes a lot of parts that replace stock parts to help you lose weight. plus a lot of their parts take weight off the front, helps balance the car some more. they also make some frame braces that help stiffen the chassis. a single piece aluminum drive shaft will drop some weight too. some forged race wheels will help lower the total weight of the car too.
dropping weight is what I'd be looking at personally but it get's pretty pricey pretty quick. if it's a track only trailered car and the rules let you do it then start to strip that thing down. get rid of all the extra power stuff and get some lightweight seats, that kinda stuff. I bet there's a lot of weight that can be removed.
for the rear end the Watts link looks like a really cool setup but I don't know if it's a noticeable difference from the upgraded panhard bar or not, for the money it better be! the concept seems better and makes sense to me but maybe someone with more experience could go into detail on that one.
dropping weight is what I'd be looking at personally but it get's pretty pricey pretty quick. if it's a track only trailered car and the rules let you do it then start to strip that thing down. get rid of all the extra power stuff and get some lightweight seats, that kinda stuff. I bet there's a lot of weight that can be removed.
for the rear end the Watts link looks like a really cool setup but I don't know if it's a noticeable difference from the upgraded panhard bar or not, for the money it better be! the concept seems better and makes sense to me but maybe someone with more experience could go into detail on that one.
And Watts links are cool, and work really well (some better than others). But it's no substitute for good springs, bars, shocks first.
03-26-2010, 12:39 PM
#25
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 738
There's a reason even top flight drivers still have coaches. You can't see everything you're doing wrong from the driver's seat.
Regarding the Watt's issue, I have been wondering how big a difference a Watt's link would make myself. Then my OE trak-lok differential wore out (well, to be correct has-been-wearing out) and I replaced it with a T2R. I was surprised by the difference that made in stability and grip in a bumpy corner. So much so, that I'm back to not seeing the need for a Watts link. What was happening is that as a tire would unweight due to a mid-corner bump, the torque from the engine would spin it and the car would feel unstable (i.e. required steering input). The T2R addresses a lot of the instability.
Not saying the Watts wouldn't make it even better, just that I'm not sure I would notice as a big a difference in mid corner stability as I did going from a worn out trak-lok diff to the T2R.
FWIW, the trak-loc differential barely made it 6K miles of driving to/from events and the autocross/track events themselves before the clutches were toast. I think the real killer was probably autocross, but that's just a guess.
Regarding the Watt's issue, I have been wondering how big a difference a Watt's link would make myself. Then my OE trak-lok differential wore out (well, to be correct has-been-wearing out) and I replaced it with a T2R. I was surprised by the difference that made in stability and grip in a bumpy corner. So much so, that I'm back to not seeing the need for a Watts link. What was happening is that as a tire would unweight due to a mid-corner bump, the torque from the engine would spin it and the car would feel unstable (i.e. required steering input). The T2R addresses a lot of the instability.
Not saying the Watts wouldn't make it even better, just that I'm not sure I would notice as a big a difference in mid corner stability as I did going from a worn out trak-lok diff to the T2R.
FWIW, the trak-loc differential barely made it 6K miles of driving to/from events and the autocross/track events themselves before the clutches were toast. I think the real killer was probably autocross, but that's just a guess.
Hrmm... I still have the OE stuff and I've been to quite a few track events so far. Been keeping an eye out for the stangs online. Quite a few are going for 5k with very minimal flood damage.
Strip out the interior, lightweight aluminum seat, quick-release wheel, break down the dash to the bare minimums, strut braces, sub-frames, coil-overs, new sways, panhard (maybe watt's), wheels, tires, HD mounts, CAI, tune, plugs, radiator, underdrive pulleys, battery... Got a lot of saving and work to do hehe
Last edited by gmoran1469; 03-26-2010 at 03:23 PM.
03-26-2010, 08:47 PM
#26
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,190
Beware of parts designed only to drop weight, as they are usually drag race oriented. Further, some folks wouldn't know a corner if it smacked them the head. And others are content to just do things that are good enough for the general street driver who never really pushes the car.
And Watts links are cool, and work really well (some better than others). But it's no substitute for good springs, bars, shocks first.
And Watts links are cool, and work really well (some better than others). But it's no substitute for good springs, bars, shocks first.
I think I'll get the springs and shocks and that kinda stuff first, worry about the other stuff later
03-26-2010, 10:44 PM
#27
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Texas
Posts: 162
Not looking for driving advice or which car to start out with advice. Asked a specific question, only interested in specific answers. I was curious if there was a big difference between the two once the pony is upgraded. Apparently there isn't. Saves me some trouble.
Starting with a 1985 RX-7, moving up to a S197 with at least GT standard HP.
Strictly a trailered track car.
Don't need advice on driving either. I handle myself on the track pretty well considering I am running times way faster than the Miata's, 944's, and even some of the GT2 class in my street mustang.
I haven't decided on the final list of equipment for the build so actual coil-overs and parts will vary but here is a rough rundown:
Coil-over kit, rotor cooling, DBA Slotted 2 piece rotors, not sure about wheels but will probably run with the 18x9.5 steeda ultra's, goodridge SS lines, umi 1055 panhard, Strano sway bar stage 3 kit, CAI, Tune, Steeda HD mounts, you see where I am going with this, or at least I hope you do. Any other recommended upgrades. I run all this except the coil-overs, 2-piece slotted rotors, and the Sway bars on my street car.
Starting with a 1985 RX-7, moving up to a S197 with at least GT standard HP.
Strictly a trailered track car.
Don't need advice on driving either. I handle myself on the track pretty well considering I am running times way faster than the Miata's, 944's, and even some of the GT2 class in my street mustang.
I haven't decided on the final list of equipment for the build so actual coil-overs and parts will vary but here is a rough rundown:
Coil-over kit, rotor cooling, DBA Slotted 2 piece rotors, not sure about wheels but will probably run with the 18x9.5 steeda ultra's, goodridge SS lines, umi 1055 panhard, Strano sway bar stage 3 kit, CAI, Tune, Steeda HD mounts, you see where I am going with this, or at least I hope you do. Any other recommended upgrades. I run all this except the coil-overs, 2-piece slotted rotors, and the Sway bars on my street car.
You did not ask "a specific question", you asked a general "ricer" question. I'm glad that you were called out and had to provide more information.
IMO, this Mustang forum is as close as you will get to C-C.com on the net. Maybe some day you will appreciate that, rather than getting all defensive.
No offense intented, but then again you haven't impressed me with a post yet.
03-27-2010, 12:34 AM
#29
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: MI
Posts: 59
Wrong. Everyone can still learn from their mistakes and become a better driver. Not everyone needs driving advice. Two different things. "Advice" usually comes from the idiots who think they are Mario Andretti. That's why most of the time I don't listen to those guys. I watch the drivers who are leading and learn from them as well as learn from myself while I am on the track. No one better to learn from than yourself.
.
.
Do yourself a favor and come back down to earth. I have never met a new “student” that thought they had it figured out ever get fast. But I have see quite a few people who just wanted to learn, have fun and knew that they were clueless become incredibly fast in short order.
Knowing your personality type makes me think I just wasted my time. Now you are going to be mad at me when you should be spending time on introspection.
Good luck
