Philostang

Oh, almost forgot. When I did my upper arm with bracket, I seem to recall that the tank did NOT have to be removed...I did, however, do myself the favor of lowering it (which was very easy).

In the post you linked, there was some confusion about why the tank should be lowered (sounded like the guy never actually did the job, just looked at pictures). Access to the bolts is cake - that's not what creates the need to get the tank moved out of the way. The bracket itself has a flange that interferes with the tank edge, and the way it has to go in doesn't make for an easy time w/o moving the tank down a bit.

Having said that, I'm sure some determined folks may have figured out a way to do it without touching the tank. I tried, failed, and just figured it was easier and faster to loosen two bolts and let her droop a bit (it's not much). If you go the UCA route, once you get in there, you can decide what will work easiest for you.

Best,
-j

Riptide

The brackets aren't off the table. I've just been counseled against doing them - yet. They may be good for traction in a straight line but not so much for handling otherwise.

Regarding the fuel tank and lowering it. The horizontal bolt that attaches the UCA to the mount would have to come out if I was just doing the arm and not the mount. Doing them both allows me to keep that attached and not have to remove it while under there. It comes out as one piece (mount + uca).

Now, the bolt under the seat and lowering the tank in order to get the mount out from there. The guy I linked those posts from has done the install and says he did not have to lower the tank to get the mount out. He has an 08 car. As you can see in this thread at least one other person has mentioned not having to lower the tank to get the mount out. Could there be a difference in the cars between the 05-07 and the 08+? I have no idea. I guess I'll find out when I go to do this.

What type of socket do I need to get the bolts out from the fuel tank should I need to lower it? I want to be prepared for any eventuality. I've heard it is some weird socket, not even a standard Torx socket.

DIY writeup with pictures may be on the way in the next month once I get set to do the work.

Sam Strano

Running relocation brackets in a tail down position causes roll oversteer (the axle turns out when the car rolls). Also they have some effect on ride too. Do they help traction? Yes, by moving the instant center backward, but there are consequences to most any change you make.

I'd upgrade the upper arm and the upper arm bracket/mount (so he can lower the front of the upper arm) which will also help the rear bite, but without the associated roll steer effects.

Ford-a-tude

The bolts to remove the gas tank straps are a T-47 Torx. I looked all over and had a hard time finding one. Founds lots of T-50's though. After I finally found one and used it I realized that it was a loose fit and a 50 would probably have fit anyway. There must have been a change to either the upper bracket or the clearance of the tank because on my 06 the bracket wouldn't slip out without dropping the tank an inch or so. I wonder if there is a replacement bushing for the differential mount. I noticed that too when I did all my arms. I changed out all the bushings 'cept for that big 'ole one in the rear end housing.

Riptide

Hopefully Sears will have the proper Torx bit if I need to drop the tank. They are only a block from my house and if the 50 doesn't fit I can go back and get something else.

Ideally I won't have to drop the tank at all but @ this point who knows. The only two people who haven't had to drop it have 2008 cars. Having a 2006 - sounds like possibly there may have been a change by Ford that made things easier on the 08+ owners.

Philostang

I thought it was a T47...Sears should have it, I didn't find any trouble getting one.

I hope the UCA fixes things for you. If not, there's another alternative aside from the relocation brackets. Though, as far as adding roll oversteer, I should wish it was enough to combat the inherent understeer we already experience - it's not by any stretch. But if you're really worried about that, get the Steeda units. They offer a far greater range of adjustments than most others. I'm lowered less than an inch in back, my arms are only 3 deg tail-down, and I still have another position I could mount them to get them closer to the factory tail-up position (which I measured at 2.5 deg tail-up w/OEM tires & springs). For reference, without the lowering springs the arms came in 6 deg tail-down using the same rear bolt position on the relocation brackets. So at that point you're probably going to see some significant roll oversteer (and great-for-drag racing traction), and you would definitely need the upper mount position on the brackets. If you got something like a BMR unit, you're stuck with the arm position.

Anyway, this all leads up to the alternative - shocks. I don't really get this entirely, but I've read of a couple of folks who say their wheel hop was "cured" by a better strut and shock package. I can speculate on why (again, I don't really get why they would have a dramatic effect on wheel hop), but Sam would likely do a better job at it. At any rate, you might want to consider the condition of your rear shocks and springs. Anything there to doubt?

Good luck with the UCA install!

Best,
-j

Riptide

I doubt the shocks are messed up. Car has 17K on it and from what I discussed with Sam it doesn't feel that way to me. I can't rule it out though. But @ this point it's easier and cheaper to try replacing the arm(s)/bushing(s).

I settled on the UMI mount and the UMI adjustable UCA with delrin lined ends (roto-joint).

Got some impact extension bars, 1/2 in. drive, last night and a set of impact swivel sockets in 1/2 in. drive. Almost have everything I need to start.

Riptide

Why does it seem like people rarely replace the big rubber bushing that is on the differential? I know Steeda makes a replacement piece for it. Just seems like I don't read about it much. People put a new arm in or arm + mount and then that seems to be it.

Philostang

Sounds like your in good shape.

I think two reasons stand out for not replacing the pumpkin bushing. First, if you're running a stiffer bushing or spherical in the front, the softer bushing offsets some of the harshness you'd get otherwise (kind of like the poly/spherical combo lca's you see).

From what I gather, the other reason is that it can be a pain in the **** w/o the right tools. In another life I had an `81 Trans Am, and I rebuilt the front suspension with bushing inserts, etc. Getting some of those out was one of the most aggravating things I've ever done to a car. Wrong/no tool = nightmare.

That's my guess.

Best,
-j

Riptide

Question regarding the pinion angle. When I remove the stock arm is it possible to just adjust the replacement arm such that it matches it in length as closely as you can by eye and then install? Or is checking it with the angle finder an absolute MUST? Never done it before in my life.

If I do need to check it I will get a magnetic angle finder form Sears. Can this be done with the car on the ground?