201150

Has anyone tried these and if so what did you think ? Anyone thought of trying these?

Sam Strano

I sell the UMI roto-joints and PHB and LCA's with roto-joints, which I believe are better. Same idea, but better execution--for this reason:

The Roto-joints use a one piece center portion, Spohn uses a ball with separate bushings to adapt them to the size of the bolt. Just less parts for dirt to work into, to lose, and to deal with.

As far as how they work.... They eliminate the binding of urethane bushings, but are more quiet than rod-ends (and with the UMI's rebuildable and if you want, tensionable if they do make any racket). They have been very popular because they are a performance upgrade vs. urethane, and a noise upgrade (meaning more quiet) than rod-ends.

Rubrignitz

I run the del-sphere/poly LCA's, UCA and poly/sphere panhard bar. I initially thought they were just as noisy as the rod-end parts I'd had in the past but once I found the real noise culprit (ford's misfitted bolts) are now completely silent. I don't hear em'. Windows up, windows down, completely silent.

The NVH increased a bit as can be expected with a solid part like the delsphere or rotojoint (or rod end for that matter) but is totally livable IMO and I'm fairly picky about NVH and extremely picky about any noises from my suspension.

They work great.

201150

Thanks guys. SO Sam as I plan to weekend drag race my 2011, should I go with the 1061 lowers and 1062 upper, either 1059 or 160 LCA brackets and 1055 panhard bar. Thanks

Sam Strano

The upper arm on a 2011 is a bit different than on the 2010's. The arm is longer, so you just can't pop any of the 2010 and older upper arms/3rd link in. What you can do is run a setup that has a new bracket and arm both.

In this case I'd consider the Steeda 555-4106 or 555-4109 setups, or UMI 1045 bracket with the 1062 3rd link. At this time a direct fit to the 2011 bracket 3rd link isn't around. No matter, the Steeda and UMI brackets are stronger anyway, so many would want to upgrade.

As for the LCA brackets. It's really up to you whether you want bolt-in easy and coating, or weld-in (not coated). We also have the Steeda brackets which are pretty much the same thing, but are weld-in only. They do have a two more adjustment holes compared to the UMI's, but ultimately the lowest are pretty much in the same spot, and you'd use that setting for maximum weight transfer.

As for the Panhard bar: Frankly, that's not really much to do with wheelhop. The PHB is on an angle and so bars using urethane at both ends are a little tougher to install and do slightly stick the rear axle's up and down motion. So I do like the 1055 for those reasons.

201150

Thank-you for the great information.