It seems when it is wet out I get really bad wheel hop. I have read the replacing the UCA and LCA's will fix this problem. However, my question is if you had to choose which is going to help reduce wheel hop the most? I dont have a ton of money right now but would like to fix the hop so what are your suggestions to do first and what brand?

 

First suggestions? Don't race on wet roads. Easy does it. Have a little patience.

Replacing the rear control arms is normally a fix for dry road wheel hop, so if you're not hopping on dry pavement - save your money.


Norm

 

It may be the crappy stock tires but not even racing just taking off anything but babying it and it starts hopping like crazy when it is wet.

 

When its wet good luck.

I got my LCA's and they killed probably 85% of my wheel hop on dry. But in wet i cant stop the damn thing from hopping to save my life.

If i were you i would get LCA's since they are easier to install.

 

I'd recommend LCA's first. The bushings are softer than the upper, and there are more of them to flex and deflect. They are also easier to change--though I wouldn't care if they were likely to help you more.....

And I think they'll help you on any road, wet or dry..... The fact is if you had NO traction you wouldn't hop, the hop is an issue with the tires grabbing, the bushings moving and then storing energy which gets returned---and then it just gets worse. You might see it more on wet roads because it's easier to get to that point (dry roads take more power to get that kind of wheelspin).

Anyway, then you have to decide what kind of LCA's you want. There are choices to be made. Inexpensive ones that have poly bushings at both ends? They do the hop job, and are the quietest, but also kind of bind up the rear axle's range of motion which effects ride and handling in not the greatest way...... There are arms that have one poly bushing and one joint that allows articulation. These are what I normally recommend since they allow the axle to move in rotation the way you want, but not fore/aft, and they are more quiet than all rod-end types since the body mount is still a urethane bushing (which is now not an issue as the rear joint allows the axle to move).

All the LCA's I carry can be seen here: http://www.stranoparts.com/searchbym...D=99&ModelID=5

UMI 1057, 1061 and Steeda 555-4406 are the types I mostly recommend over the UMI 1035, Steeda 555-4416, 555-4405 types that are all urethane bushed at both ends.

 

whats the advantage of adjustable? and what about relocation brackets?

 

Adjustable LCAs allow you to square the axle in the chassis, slightly adjust where in the wheelwell the wheels are centered, and tinker with pinion angle. An adjustable upper mostly affects pinion angle, and slightly affects wheel location in the wheelwell. You may or may not need to do any of these adjustments, or you might need to do them all, depending on the car, what you're doing with it, and how fussy you are.

The purpose of relo brackets is to increase the anti-squat geometry for better initial launch bite. It is entirely possible to make the car slightly oversteerish with these (especially if you use the lowest holes available). IOW, don't get carried away with thinking that goes "some's good, more's better, too much is . . ." . . . because too much is simply TOO MUCH.


Norm

 

A useful article

http://www.cherod.com/mustang/HowTo/LCA%20_adj.htm

 

A great article! Thanks Sleeper. That clears up how an LCA should be sit after lowering a Mustang. I can take a look and decide if I want to go with LCAs and brackets.
I installed Sport Springs and Dspecs a couple of months ago and love how the car stays flat in turns and was curious about what the pinion angle should be and how much I affected that by lowering my car.
Since I also went with a shorter tire, I am curious how much angle the LCAs have on them now, if any. According to the article, you would want to have angle for a bite when drag racing for leaving the line. Would setting the car up for the road mean no angle on the LCA?

 

Usually it is suggested that the LCAs be flat for road courses. I've dropped mine slightly to the rear to help improve traction coming out of the corners. With the SC I need help getting the power down.

As Norm says dropping the rears can cause the car to oversteer somewhat and I feel it at times but am used to it.