Hey folks,

Does anyone know what the real difference is between these two lower control arms from Steeda other than the billet look and Steeda logo?

Chrome Moly Lower Control Arms

and these:

Billet Lower Control Arms

Obviously the billet looks nicer, but in terms of performance and actual functionality, any benefit of one over the other?

 

I think you mean these: http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...201&ModelID=35 and these: http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...201&ModelID=35 (or these: http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...201&PartID=535

Notice the price differences.

Billets are lighter and certainly look a lot cooler. The tubular ones are less expensive, and can transmit a bit more axle noise through them to the body.... that doesn't bother most, some hate it.

I'd recommend the Billet set with the spherical bearing for the best, most free rotational movement of the axle (among these three).

I also carry the complete UMI product line. They have tubular (mild steel vs. CM, but also much less expensive and just at strong, if a touch heavier). And they have arms with rebuildable and serviceable Roto-joints which function like the spherical bearing. They do not have billet arms.

All the control arms I commonly use or recommend are on my website.

 

Sam thanks for your input... Billet it is !
Since youre in an answering mood and you suggested UMI products... how would you compare the UMI performance double adjustable panhard bar with rod ends to the Steeda Pan hard?

What would you suggest to be the better option if you're looking for the least amount of NVH?

 

Why aren't you comparing apples to apples on the PHB's? You compare a UMI Rod-ended unit to a Steeda Poly unit... Wouldn't a UMI Poly vs. a Steeda Poly be a better comparison?

For minimum NVH you want a poly bushed PHB. I'd recommend this one, since it's also much easier to adjust: http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...208&ModelID=35
It also comes in your choice of red or black (which I imagine would be what you'd pick) and for a good bit less money. It's not CM, but mild steel... but that makes no difference in strength as they use a heavier wall tubing... that's about 1 pound to the weight. I'd save the money and buy the easier to adjust 1044 UMI bar.

 

Reason i was comparing those two is because i primarily wanted the Steeda Poly, but there's someone selling a used but never used UMI rod ended unit in the classifieds... figured I could save a few bucks if there's not a difference in NVH.

Will take your suggestion on the UMI poly unit into consideration though. Wont go with the Rod ended one either way if its going to increase NVH

 

So my next choice now is between the Tokico D-Specs, and the Koni STR's.

I would have loved to have done the Koni Sports (Yellows) but can't swing that much in the budget. STR's would have been ideal cost wise, but since they are non adjustable, I dont think they will work for me with such a drastic drop.

 

Again, I carry multiple brands... and there is no sales tax either.

With the drop you want, you need to not run dampers meant for more minimal drops. I'd say D-specs, I have them for $589 to your door. Yeah, I know you sometimes see a lower number, but then you add shipping and if you buy from an in state place--sales tax too. That's why I do the $589 shipped price. I think you'd find it's fair. And here's the kicker, I don't see other vendors in here to help.

 

That is a pretty good price on new...but I have to find used stuff to afford it

 

Just remember, used means zero warranty. Warranty is to the original purchaser only.