Try hugely busy, and e-mail is fine for general stuff... not good for any sort of detail work.

When you voice is better, give me a call.

 

Hey Sam, that was me you talked to around noon (Pacific Time) this morning. My voice is better but was still pretty bad.

I appreciate the advice, I've got the parts in my shopping cart now and am returning the LCA and 3rd Link to Steeda.

 

Went with:
Steeda Sport Springs
Koni - STR.T series Damper kit
UMI - Panhard Bar--On-car + Single Adjustable
Edit: forgot GT500 Strut Mount

And will be returning the LCA and 3rd Link.

 

I don't know how long you have to do that.... you might want to hang onto the control arms just in case... but a quick poll here will show you that lowering the car tends to help wheelhop a ton in and of itself.

 

Mixed signals haha.

I was thinking that if I decide to get LCAs later, that I might go for these:
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...201&ModelID=35

 

Amazing, I am planning on doing the same job to much 2010 GT with the track Pack... looking for a lower vehicle and reduced wheel hop. This thread was just the ticket! I'm curious, was the panhard bar considered "optional", or was it an important part of the package per Mr. Strano?

 

it depends on you...
The stock panhard bar has a fixed length, so when the vehicle is lowered, it will push the axle (wheels) out to the driver's side of the car a little, but the amount is minor enough that it's not going to change driving dynamics much if at all. The only real justifiable reason (for most of us) for a panhard bar is to get a stronger one to reduce flex which will keep the axle from shifting around in back while turning hard. IMO it's worth if it you like to drive your car aggressively.

 

There is great knowledge in this forum Angry Bits....these guys know their stuff. After the Steeda springs my car moved 7/16" to drivers side JFYI. Its a 2011.

 

7/16" that's more than I expected. If it really is that much, I would say that warrants a panhard bar.

 

7/16" is more than is geometrically possible with PHB pivots that behave as perfect pins, which leaves bushing distortion as the only other cause that I can think of. Nothing else moves.


So the question that occurs to me - does anybody ever bother to loosen and retighten their PHB bolts as part of the lowering process? Or is it just a case of dropping in the new springs and calling the job done?

Not doing loosening/tightening sounds sort of like retorquing LCA pivot bolts with the axle drooping free in that the bushings will not be in a "minimum stress" condition at static ride height.


Norm