Does a standard 4 wheel alignment usually include panhard adjustment?
#11
I doubt that alignment shops consider panhard bar adjustment part of an alignment, as car don't have an adjustable PHB from the factory.
4-wheel alignmant usually applies to cars that have IRS, as they actually have adjustments that can be made in the rear end.
You can adjust it pretty easy yourself, if of course you get an on-car adjustable one like UMI, etc.
Here is basically what you do:
(Car MUST be on level ground )
1) Hang a plumb-bob (weight on about a 12" piece of string) from the fender lip, as close to being above the center of wheels as possible (highest point) on both sides of the car.
2) Measure from the string to the lip of the wheel rim on each side of the rear of the car. The distance need to be the same, so the axle is centered below the body of the car.
3) Adjust the PHB until the measuement is the same on both sides.
4) Bounce the rear end up/down a few times to be sure it is settled and remeasure to be sure.
5) Add Loctite blue to the threads of the PHB adjuster/lock-nuts and tighten it down.
Note: because of the angle of the PHB changes as the suspension travels up/down, the centering of the axle also shifts. So it is best to do the adjustment with at least 1/2 tank of gas, so the rear end is loaded down. Yes, the centering of the rear will change some from tank empty to tank full because of the change in ride height and subsequent change in PHB angle in relation to the body.
-So it's pretty simple, at it feels good when you are done to know your axle is perfectly centered, which it rarely is from the factory!
4-wheel alignmant usually applies to cars that have IRS, as they actually have adjustments that can be made in the rear end.
You can adjust it pretty easy yourself, if of course you get an on-car adjustable one like UMI, etc.
Here is basically what you do:
(Car MUST be on level ground )
1) Hang a plumb-bob (weight on about a 12" piece of string) from the fender lip, as close to being above the center of wheels as possible (highest point) on both sides of the car.
2) Measure from the string to the lip of the wheel rim on each side of the rear of the car. The distance need to be the same, so the axle is centered below the body of the car.
3) Adjust the PHB until the measuement is the same on both sides.
4) Bounce the rear end up/down a few times to be sure it is settled and remeasure to be sure.
5) Add Loctite blue to the threads of the PHB adjuster/lock-nuts and tighten it down.
Note: because of the angle of the PHB changes as the suspension travels up/down, the centering of the axle also shifts. So it is best to do the adjustment with at least 1/2 tank of gas, so the rear end is loaded down. Yes, the centering of the rear will change some from tank empty to tank full because of the change in ride height and subsequent change in PHB angle in relation to the body.
-So it's pretty simple, at it feels good when you are done to know your axle is perfectly centered, which it rarely is from the factory!
#12
Note: because of the angle of the PHB changes as the suspension travels up/down, the centering of the axle also shifts. So it is best to do the adjustment with at least 1/2 tank of gas, so the rear end is loaded down. Yes, the centering of the rear will change some from tank empty to tank full because of the change in ride height and subsequent change in PHB angle in relation to the body.
If you have enough weightlifting plates laying around the place, match your weight with some of them in the driver seat and some in the footwell. Each front seat occupant (150 - 175 lb) is worth about 1/4" in ride height with the OE springs (slightly less than that with just about any aftermarket springs).
Norm
#13
Gonna breath life into this old thread. I used the information here to install my UMI adjustable panhard rod this week. Thanks to all for the great information.
Now I have a couple questions. I have not greased the bushings yet (or driven the car) because I am not sure which grease to use. The instructions say marine grade grease which I found at the local Advance Auto Parts. It's the Lucas Oil brand. I was also looking at the Mobil 1 full synthetic grease. What recommendations do you all have? As I understand it, the primary concern is to not use a petroleum based grease. Also, how did you guys orient the grease fittings? Were they pointed upwards or downwards? The one of the drivers side looks like it will be difficult to access either way.
Now I have a couple questions. I have not greased the bushings yet (or driven the car) because I am not sure which grease to use. The instructions say marine grade grease which I found at the local Advance Auto Parts. It's the Lucas Oil brand. I was also looking at the Mobil 1 full synthetic grease. What recommendations do you all have? As I understand it, the primary concern is to not use a petroleum based grease. Also, how did you guys orient the grease fittings? Were they pointed upwards or downwards? The one of the drivers side looks like it will be difficult to access either way.
#14
A TEFLON based Poly Grease.
Energy Suspensions packages it
Its available at Auto-Zoner.
OR JEGS.
The bushings should have been pre-greased BEFORE assembly.
The zerks never get the grease in there fully.
You will have some loaded areas that will not receive any grease.
And a big mess if you pump them to get the grease into that area.
Energy Suspensions packages it
Its available at Auto-Zoner.
OR JEGS.
The bushings should have been pre-greased BEFORE assembly.
The zerks never get the grease in there fully.
You will have some loaded areas that will not receive any grease.
And a big mess if you pump them to get the grease into that area.
#15
Dog Tracking is adjusted with the lower control arms lengths.
They are non-adjustable OEM. So dog-tracking is nonadjustable.
Not much is adjustable on the S197. Alignment shops love this
as they can charge you for all sorts of alignment adjustments
without actually making any besides toe-in (thats adjustable).
If you are 'out of adjustment', your body or sub-frame is bent.
The panhard CENTERS the rear end. It moves in an arc with
the rear end suspensions up-down travel. You rear end moves side
to side slightly as the rear end moves up and down during driving.
A Watts Link set-up will cure this.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=blDJ-...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a8cJCqWkfgk
#16
By itself, a PHB adjustment cannot alter the thrust angle.
But if the LCAs are somewhat skew as seen in plan (top) view, the LCAs will swing in slightly different arcs and you would get some thrust angle change that way.
The LCAs in the S197 converge toward the rear very slightly. Probably not enough thrust angle shifting can happen to ever notice.
Norm
But if the LCAs are somewhat skew as seen in plan (top) view, the LCAs will swing in slightly different arcs and you would get some thrust angle change that way.
The LCAs in the S197 converge toward the rear very slightly. Probably not enough thrust angle shifting can happen to ever notice.
Norm
#17
question on alignment and panhard
I just installed new springs/shocks today along with the Steeda hd mounts. I was waiting until after I was done to see if I was going to need a panhard; I do. Here's my question: I was going to go day after tomorrow to get the alignment checked. If anything needs to be adjusted will installing a panhard bar after the fact affect anything on the front end? And will your average shop know their way around the hd mounts as far as adjustments? I assume they would, byt then again I've made assumptions before
#18
Your front and rear adjustments (when get the adj PHB) will be independent. In the front, your toe, camber & caster will not be affected by any lateral move you make in the back with the PHB and vice versa.
When it comes to the average shop, I would recommend that you RUN AWAY. If you don't have someone that you really trust, learn to do the camber and toe-in yourself, it is pretty easy to do, does not require any fancy tools, (beyond a couple of long sticks, a tape measure and a level) and you can dial the settings in to really get what you paid for with that adjustable top mount. Why settle for factory or even what somebody else likes. Your car is different and so are you. Every adjustment is a compromise. Find the one you like.
When it comes to the average shop, I would recommend that you RUN AWAY. If you don't have someone that you really trust, learn to do the camber and toe-in yourself, it is pretty easy to do, does not require any fancy tools, (beyond a couple of long sticks, a tape measure and a level) and you can dial the settings in to really get what you paid for with that adjustable top mount. Why settle for factory or even what somebody else likes. Your car is different and so are you. Every adjustment is a compromise. Find the one you like.
#19
I've heard elsewhere where people apparently have found that the steering wheel shifted its center position slightly after adjusting a PHB. I guess most people don't notice, else we'd be seeing this complaint a lot more frequently.
Norm
Norm
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09-07-2015 07:22 PM