Camber question
#13
A way to get about +.75* back after lowering
is to turn the strut mount plate so the ID arrow
is pointed in instead of out, the hole for the strut
is offset by 7mm so this will move the top of the
strut out, same thing adj plates do.
You won't have the adjustability of plates but if
you don't go road racing should be fine.
I've been running this way for +2yrs with no problems.
Lowered 1" and at -.75* with no other adjustments.
is to turn the strut mount plate so the ID arrow
is pointed in instead of out, the hole for the strut
is offset by 7mm so this will move the top of the
strut out, same thing adj plates do.
You won't have the adjustability of plates but if
you don't go road racing should be fine.
I've been running this way for +2yrs with no problems.
Lowered 1" and at -.75* with no other adjustments.
#14
+1
And FYI Ford did a running production change on the fasteners and now recommend an upgrade to a finer thread bolt with a torque of over 160 ft-lbs. Based on that information alone, I would be scared to put camber bolts in the car because there was obviously a reason to change the bolts and specify a higher torque value on the earlier cars.
And FYI Ford did a running production change on the fasteners and now recommend an upgrade to a finer thread bolt with a torque of over 160 ft-lbs. Based on that information alone, I would be scared to put camber bolts in the car because there was obviously a reason to change the bolts and specify a higher torque value on the earlier cars.
I was wondering if anyone would mention the mid-production bolt change.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9hPRD5tY-ss
#17
Kevin,
So they pretty much told you everything was in spec when you went to get an alignment? We have the same springs and I never got an alignment after I put the springs on 13k miles ago and I just did my shocks too, no alignment. And I never had any wear issues or the car doing anything funny...
So they pretty much told you everything was in spec when you went to get an alignment? We have the same springs and I never got an alignment after I put the springs on 13k miles ago and I just did my shocks too, no alignment. And I never had any wear issues or the car doing anything funny...
#18
Yes, it was within spec, but only just barely, and all that really means is that Ford wouldn't be required to make it any better if those were the measurements made in one of their shops. When even a newbie DIY'er to front end alignment can be expected to work an suspension with adjustability to a quarter of a degree or better in his own driveway, plus/minus three times that is a pretty sloppy definition of "OK" for a shop don't ya think?
IMO, you'd have to be playing in the corners at least moderately hard a good part of the time to live with those settings long-term. And that's not exactly the sort of driving that you'd expect all that many 4.0 Mustangs to be subjected to (no flame intended).
Separately, the "cross" measurements are both in the "wrong" directions, relative to common settings made to alleviate tendencies to drift down toward gutters and/or drainage sitches on crowned roads. This bothers some people more than it does others.
Keep in mind that cars, and the alignment results of suspension changes & modifications made to them, are both subject to tolerance. Before I swapped the Konis in, my own GT cambers measured about -1.8° with the entire front suspension completely stock, as-delivered, and untouched until that time (not even re-aligned). There's at least a fair chance that OP's car had more than the preferred -0.75° to begin with, at least on the left side. There's an equally fair chance that your cambers were both less negative than -0.75° before modding. IOW, you can't really extend that part of your experience to what others can expect from theirs.
Norm
IMO, you'd have to be playing in the corners at least moderately hard a good part of the time to live with those settings long-term. And that's not exactly the sort of driving that you'd expect all that many 4.0 Mustangs to be subjected to (no flame intended).
Separately, the "cross" measurements are both in the "wrong" directions, relative to common settings made to alleviate tendencies to drift down toward gutters and/or drainage sitches on crowned roads. This bothers some people more than it does others.
I never got an alignment after I put the springs on 13k miles ago and I just did my shocks too, no alignment. And I never had any wear issues or the car doing anything funny...
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 03-28-2011 at 08:26 AM.
#19
Quick question...I'm buying the Steeda HD strut mounts this week. I understand that you need the spacer from a 2010 Mustang for the 2010 struts to work on a '11. Do I have to buy the more expensive SVT 2010 mounts, or will the cheaper "regular" 2010 GT mounts work as well? Seems a shame to spend the extra $$ on something that that will get canabalized and then thrown out.
#20
A way to get about +.75* back after lowering
is to turn the strut mount plate so the ID arrow
is pointed in instead of out, the hole for the strut
is offset by 7mm so this will move the top of the
strut out, same thing adj plates do.
You won't have the adjustability of plates but if
you don't go road racing should be fine.
I've been running this way for +2yrs with no problems.
Lowered 1" and at -.75* with no other adjustments.
is to turn the strut mount plate so the ID arrow
is pointed in instead of out, the hole for the strut
is offset by 7mm so this will move the top of the
strut out, same thing adj plates do.
You won't have the adjustability of plates but if
you don't go road racing should be fine.
I've been running this way for +2yrs with no problems.
Lowered 1" and at -.75* with no other adjustments.