Drano38

Getting ready for MAM track day in the '10 GT. Carobotech XP10/8 and Bobcats (street use) are on the way along with Superblue fluid for my factory brakes.

What brake lube are you guys using?
I called Permatex, and the tech recommended their high temp silicone formula (red label), but local stores can't get it here in time for this weekend's planned install. He said the ceramic (purple label) is more than I need.

CRC Synthetic is available locally, and is good up to 600 deg F.

I've searched the web, and it seems most lubes will swell some brands of rubber boots, so I want what works with our Stangs.

I can get Permatex green and purple single-use packs at Advance Auto, and CRC at another store to get the first job done, then I can get whatever you recommend for later changeouts.

So which one works well for track day factory rotor/caliper brakes?

DPE

Tried to answer this earlier but had technical difficulties with posting. In summary, I'd say just don't use any lube. On a 2010, you shouldn't be having any calipers sticking or the like, and when using race pads no need to care about whether your brakes squeak a bit or not (and they will). Might consider putting some on when you put your OEM pads back on, but for track use I'd go without. Or I guess I should say, I did go without, and have done so for the past 10 years when putting track pads in (other than on sliding calipers where the whole pin comes out when you change pads; then I'd lube the pins up, but for the Mustang there's no need to do this).

All it seems to do is collect brake dust and other shmutz from the track, and I don't believe it will provide any benefit. Just put the race pads in with no shims or lube or anything, and you'll be good to go.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong here (as if I have to ask ), but it has always worked for me.

chrumck

I use the red one (silicone based) on rubber parts and purple on sliders, pad backing plates etc. Don't use the purple on rubber parts . It kind of dries up or soaks in and leaves the rubber sticky and not lubricated.

So, as long as you need the sliders and the back of the pads to be lubricated only (you can leave the pins and the pin boots alone this time), I'd take permatex purple. This thing stays there even after the pads are cooked.

Argonaut

JAJ

I actually wrote a reply to this post this morning and the forum crashed and I couldn't post it. It said exactly the same thing as DPE.

Put your calipers together dry for the track!

Grease is fine for reducing noise on the street, but keep it away from the pads when they're going to get smoking hot!

Drano38

Thanks everyone for the responses.
Carbotech box arrived Friday.
Put XP10 on the front last night, and got XP8 on the back today (dry per your inputs).
Overall it went well. I've never done brakes before, so I took my time and figured stuff out. It's very simple (like everyone says).
But the factory uses some kind of adhesive on the front outer pads. Followed the Haynes manual and used a big C-clamp to push the outer pad in and away from the caliper.
The rear piston tool kit I got from Advance Auto sure works nice. Well worth the money.
I installed Speed Bleeders and have Superblue pumped into the system.
I'll order some Permatex Silicone lube to have on hand for when the pins start getting dry. With 2500 highway miles, they're still moving great. But a day keeping them hot at the track may take care of the factory lube.
Thanks again for the help.