Lowering my 2011??
I was just wondering if you guys are upgrading your Struts/shocks and caster camber plates when you lower your car? Or are you just doing the lowering springs and calling it a day?
The usual recommendation if you aren't going to be doing all of the work yourself (including the alignment) is to upgrade the shocks/struts, provide either camber plates or use the Steeda HD strut mounts, and get the whole job done in one shot. For your 2011, the Steeda HD mount route gets a little more involved.
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...224&ModelID=35
That said, the OE dampers will physically work with the lowering springs, just not quite as well as with the OE springs since most lowering springs are somewhat stiffer than the OE springs. If it wasn't for having to do the same front suspension disassembly/reassembly/alignment job a second time, it would be easier to suggest letting this one go for a while.
The need for camber correction (and how much correction you need) pretty much boils down to how much you lower the car and where the camber ends up at, vs how hard your average cornering is. If you know where your cambers are at before lowering, the cambers after lowering can be estimated knowing how much drop is expected. This one you really can't ignore, because leaving a lot more negative camber uncorrected than your driving calls for can and will get an appetite for your front tires. The good thing is that if you have some idea about the sort of driver you are, you can set the camber to something better suited to you than either Ford's preferred setting (-0.75°) or whatever the car happened to come with.
Norm
Originally Posted by stranoparts site
**PLEASE NOTE** these will work on a 2011 Mustang, but requires isolator that was stock on a 2005-2010 OEM FORD Strut Mount, and is NOT part of a stock 2011 mount. If you intend on running these on a 2011 car you will need to buy stock 2005-2010 mounts from a dealer, or source some used ones
That said, the OE dampers will physically work with the lowering springs, just not quite as well as with the OE springs since most lowering springs are somewhat stiffer than the OE springs. If it wasn't for having to do the same front suspension disassembly/reassembly/alignment job a second time, it would be easier to suggest letting this one go for a while.
The need for camber correction (and how much correction you need) pretty much boils down to how much you lower the car and where the camber ends up at, vs how hard your average cornering is. If you know where your cambers are at before lowering, the cambers after lowering can be estimated knowing how much drop is expected. This one you really can't ignore, because leaving a lot more negative camber uncorrected than your driving calls for can and will get an appetite for your front tires. The good thing is that if you have some idea about the sort of driver you are, you can set the camber to something better suited to you than either Ford's preferred setting (-0.75°) or whatever the car happened to come with.
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; Aug 19, 2011 at 10:47 AM.
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