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Old Jun 14, 2012 | 06:37 PM
  #1  
wanakanabe's Avatar
wanakanabe
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 289
From: IN
Default Alignment Numbers

Got some info that didn't sound right.Lowered my car last week with eibach pro kit.Took it in yesterday to make sure it was still in spec.Tech said there was no spec data for mustangs 2010 and up so he had to use the 2009 specs.I really didn't t know what to say as it caught me off guard but anyway,here is what he came up with.Can anyone verify if I am still in the safe zone.Cars rides great, no noises, doesn't. Pull.I didn't buy camber bolts or anything else so I know if I do need to lose camber, ill have to get them.I plan on buying new struts/ shocks this winter while car is in storage.
Front
Caster left initial 7.39 final 7.23
Caster right initial 6.97 final 6.8

Camber left initial -1.29 final -1.36
Camber right initial -1.24 final -1.21

Toe left initial -.31 final 0.02
Toe right initial .19 final 0.01
Total -0.12 final 0.03

He didn't adjust back but their readings were
Camber left -.31
Camber right -.08
Toe left -.05
Toe right -.09
Thrust angle -.03

He said the main thing he found was the Toe was off by quite a bit comparing to a 2009 spec of -.02 to .07.I don't mind running a little extra camber but does it matter if the numbers aren't the same or close enough?Caster seems like a big different too from side to side?
This is about the biggest shop in town and i have used them regularly for all my vehicles, now not so sure that's a good idea but options are limited

The specs for 2009 he had were caster 6.35 to 7.85
Camber 0 to -1.5 and toe. 02 to .07
Old Jun 14, 2012 | 10:09 PM
  #2  
Whiskey11's Avatar
Whiskey11
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 163
From: Nebraska
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Originally Posted by wanakanabe
Got some info that didn't sound right.Lowered my car last week with eibach pro kit.Took it in yesterday to make sure it was still in spec.Tech said there was no spec data for mustangs 2010 and up so he had to use the 2009 specs.I really didn't t know what to say as it caught me off guard but anyway,here is what he came up with.Can anyone verify if I am still in the safe zone.Cars rides great, no noises, doesn't. Pull.I didn't buy camber bolts or anything else so I know if I do need to lose camber, ill have to get them.I plan on buying new struts/ shocks this winter while car is in storage.
Front
Caster left initial 7.39 final 7.23
Caster right initial 6.97 final 6.8

Camber left initial -1.29 final -1.36
Camber right initial -1.24 final -1.21

Toe left initial -.31 final 0.02
Toe right initial .19 final 0.01
Total -0.12 final 0.03

He didn't adjust back but their readings were
Camber left -.31
Camber right -.08
Toe left -.05
Toe right -.09
Thrust angle -.03

He said the main thing he found was the Toe was off by quite a bit comparing to a 2009 spec of -.02 to .07.I don't mind running a little extra camber but does it matter if the numbers aren't the same or close enough?Caster seems like a big different too from side to side?
This is about the biggest shop in town and i have used them regularly for all my vehicles, now not so sure that's a good idea but options are limited

The specs for 2009 he had were caster 6.35 to 7.85
Camber 0 to -1.5 and toe. 02 to .07
The 05+ Mustangs should have the same alignment specs:
Camber: 0º to -1.5º
Caster: +6.35º to +7.85º
Toe: -.10º (Toe Out) to +.30º (Toe In)

I would say you are fine. The Caster angle on the passenger side is a tad on the lower end of the spectrum but I doubt you'll have any major issues. Generally, when adjustable, caster is set higher on the passenger side to combat car wander on crowned roads. The camber is fine. If you start to notice more inside shoulder wear corner harder (within reason of course!) :P As for toe, I'm not sure if he is measuring in degrees or in distance. I had mine set to zero just for simplicity sake.

The rear isn't adjustable at all. Interesting to see another Mustang owner with toe OUT in the rear like mine has! Even if it's pretty slight toe out.

I doubt you will feel the difference in camber when cornering. A tenth of a degree isn't a whole lot. If it bothers you that much buy caster/camber plates and even out the values side to side. You can wait to put them on when you get the new shocks/struts.

I'm running:
Camber: -1.7º L/R (Steeda HD plates maximum to keep both equal)
Caster: +7.5º L/R (Blessed with equal and lots of caster )
Toe: NEUTRAL (Zero total toe)

Tire wear is pretty normal but my car sees an autocross event every month and very enthusiastic cornering so it should be even across the tire! If anything my center section is less worn than the outer edges because I drove for about 3 months at about 31 PSI front and rear which is low for these tires for warm temperatures!
Old Jun 15, 2012 | 02:06 AM
  #3  
wanakanabe's Avatar
wanakanabe
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 289
From: IN
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Great thanks for the assist! I figured i was close just wasn't sure about how close each needed to be to each other.Always scary when a shop doesn't know how to find specs on a car.Heck i could of googled them and gottem for him.
Old Jun 15, 2012 | 03:46 PM
  #4  
SKTER97's Avatar
SKTER97
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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 137
From: Virginia
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was wondering about this myself, thanks for the numbers!!
Old Jun 17, 2012 | 10:22 AM
  #5  
Norm Peterson's Avatar
Norm Peterson
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 7,635
From: state of confusion
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There actually are specs for how much different the two sides are supposed to be, no more than 0.75° for these Mustangs. Aka the "cross-camber" and "cross-caster" numbers on the print-out.


Norm
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