pc_647f

A month or two ago I installed some H&R springs on my 07 GT. I followed Taco-Bills install and it all went well. Knocked it out in a few hours by myself in the garage.

The other day, I was watching some old Horse Power, and came across an install they did on a S197 for a Roush suspension setup. When it came to the front springs, they removed the spring & strut assembly a little different then how Taco-Bill (and the Haynes Manual) describes.

Where TB's write up removed the four bolts on the shock tower and the assembly came out in one with the spring still under tension and with the bearing cap, the Horse Power guys supported the control arm with a jack, unbolted the one strut bolt at the top and lowered the jack to unload the spring. They removed the spring and strut assembly with the bearing cap still in the tower.

It seems this would eliminate the need for spring compressors.

My buddy and I are installing Steeda springs in his 06 GT later this afternoon, and I was thinking of giving the HPTV version of the install a try.

What do you guys think? Anyone see any potential problems, or has anyone done this before?

conor1148

How do you put the tension back into the spring to reinstall the new one? when I did mine I just did it with the compressors, rented them for free from O'reilys. very easy install that way!

pc_647f

Basically the idea is you use the jack as the spring compressor.

We gave it a try, it it was pretty easy. In doing both ways, I think I prefer using the jack.

The steps are easy, after clearing the brake line from the strut, and unbolting the sway bar, you support the control arm with the jack, unbolt the strut bolt from the top, slowly let the jack down and the spring unloads nice and easy. Then its just the two strut bolts that attach to the knuckle and you are on your way. Unbolting the caliper helps so you don't have to worry about the brake lines.

Install is just as easy. Put new springs and strut in, bolt up the strut to the knuckle, then use the jack on the control arm to compress the spring. As you do so, it will feed the top of the strut through the tower. When there's enough threads through the hole, bolt the nut up and align the torque mark. Done.

The other was was good, but this was much easier. Definitely a two person job. But it was quick.

sonnier

I do it the way the Horsepower guys do it but I just zip off the top nuts before I even jack the car up. It works quite well and is pretty safe but one time I had a strut bearing blow apart. It needed to be changed anyway but I blame that on Ford for building strut bearings that are not so durable. As far as re-installation, I found that my Eibach springs are short enough for me to compress the assembly by hand to start the nut and tighten things up. It saves a lot of time and hassle not having to bust out my spring compressor.

ducatibrandon

I k ow this is a old thread but anyway. I used the spring compressor. You will quickly learn that getting the bolt out is a trick without a good impact tool. My friend loaned me his Cordless Snap-On impact drill. Took about 3 seconds. If anybody plans on changing the springs take a look at what you need to do it safely.

UrS4

I am only guessing but if you use the jack method, is there a higher chance that the strut mount may prematurely come off the spring and strut and possibly spill the bearings since you wont have your hand on it after your remove the strut bolts from the knuckle? Whereas if you use the spring compressors, you are working on removing the strut mount directly with less chance of dropping the mount and spilling the bearings.

Derf00

+1 struts are meant to take apart after they are removed from the vehicle. Doing it the shade tree mechanic way without the proper tools can lead to busted parts or injury.

I will sometimes loosen the center strut bolt before removing it from the car but I will never take it off completely until I have the spring compressed.

An impact gun and spring compressor works best/most reliably.

Oh, and I've watched that HPTV and the Gearz show, some of the stuff they show is deceivingly simple, misleading, and/or hokey. I blame it on the fact they need to edit it for time available on the show.

UrS4

Can the strut/spring install be done without an impact wrench? My car has seen winters in its previous life but am I naive in thinking some liquid wrench and muscles will do. Should I get a breaker bar?

Derf00

I've done them by hand before with a breaker bar and vice grips. The Vice grips are used to clamp down on the shaft of the strut to keep it from turning with the lock nut.

If you plan on reusing your struts (just changing springs) this is not recommended as damage to the shaft will occur and can lead to premature failure of the strut itself.

I would suggest a long combination wrench to use with a cheater bar possibly. Use the closed end on the center strut nut so you can use a rachet/wrench with the right size allen to hold the shaft from spinning. Ideally two people, one person pushing the wrench in the correct direction (lefty loosey) the other holding or pushing the rachet in the opposite direction.

First picture in this link shows exactly what I'm talking about.

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W124FrontStruts

UrS4

I'm getting the Steeda HD strut mounts, but from the install instructions I will need to reuse the rubber seat from the stock mount. I may reinstall the stock stuff when I sell the car in the distant future to either put the upgrades into a new mustang or sell outright so I hope I don't ruin the stock struts while removing them.