Menace

Alright, a little background. First, my car has never had any brake work, but I have worked on older model cars brakes a few times so I have a little experience but I'm not scared to take on this project; so please if your comment contains anything about discouraging me/having me have it done by a shop just resist the urge to comment.

The car is nearing 50,000 miles and the brakes could use some improvement. Instead of just replacing the pads I opted to do an upgrade. The newer 5.0s come with 13.2" rotors, and Roush sells them on Ebay as take-offs for dirt cheap. So my plan consists of...

13.2" Take offs
Front Caliper Takeoffs (Required because of different caliper brackets but essentially the same caliper as mine)

I'm going to go ahead and just order the Rear takeoffs and Calipers that way I don't have to mess with any cleaning, and might be able to get away without using the caliper tool because hopefully the pistons are already depressed ; but they are in the mail so we'll see.

++ Update ++

I went with the J&M Stainless Steel Brake Lines, Hawk HPS Pads front and rear, ATE AYP 200 Gold Brake Fluid, 8 Copper Washers, and got some Permatex Antisieze. As far as I know this should be all I need to swap everything out.

Total Cost: $630 roughly. I splurged on the SS Lines, and the Rear Caliper. That's about $285 of the total price. I think it's a pretty good bargain either way.

Norm Peterson

Plan on finding brake fluid that is NOT blue if you're still registering the car in Florida.

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...cat=BrakeFluid

I believe that ATE fluid is also available in amber, which is claimed to have the same specs otherwise.

I've only used grease where there is any actual rubbing of one brake component against another (pins and where the pad backing plates actually locate in the calipers). Too much grease = more chance of eventually getting some on the pad friction surfaces.


I suspect you meant 'autocrossing', and for most people street performance pads (Hawk's HPS) are entirely adequate for this activity, too.


Norm

Menace

Hey Norm,

Thanks for the speedy response. I wonder why ATE is not legal in florida, considering we have no inspection and they won't know? In either case I'll just get the amber, but the blue I thought would be really helpful with bleeding the brakes.

As far as greasing the pins do you mean beneath the boot or what exactly?

++ Update ++

Greasing the guide pins was not necessary as the new calipers were greased plenty. Another reason why I purchased the rear calipers ($65) even though I didn't need to. One, because it eliminated cleaning time and maintenance. Well spent IMO.

Norm Peterson

Took a while to find what I recall hearing somewhere about the staining issue, although it may well be the out-of-DOT4-spec color itself that Florida is taking issue with.

http://www.beastpower.com/p/bmw/ate-...TE-SB-BRAKE-FL


I only greased the pins where they go into the anchor plate, so that the caliper can float freely in/out. There isn't supposed to be much movement, but if the pins drag you'll get greatly different wear rates between the inner and outer pads.

As far as pad choice goes, each individual needs to carefully assess what's most important to them in their driving. Basically, the trade-off between Hawk's HPS and their ceramic pads is braking performance vs dust, and as somebody who uses the brakes pretty hard on a regular basis I'm oriented toward improving usable performance and dealing with the dust when the mood strikes me to bother doing anything about it. FWIW, HPS dust washes or even wipes off readily.


Norm

jpplaw

My new s/s lines came with new banjo bolts and copper washers included.

ducatibrandon

Well I just did a complete Baer kit on my car over the weekend (11gt) and something you might look at is if you have to pull the rear end aprt. I did not know I had to remove the axles to do the swap.This is not a big deal it just added a couple of hours to my day. If you are changing the rears you might check and see if you need to do this. If so go buy some dif additive and synthetic oil for the rear end. Make sure you buy new copper crush seals for both sides of the banjos. Also call a have a friend to pump out all the old brake fluid to help keep from mixing them. I was lucky to have my brother around for sure. Good luck with the swap.

Menace

Ducati: I have never seen or heard of anyone having to remove the axles in order to do this. Though this of course isn't a Big Brake Kit, and just a simple Rotor/Caliper/Line swap.

Jpplaw: What brand did you get? I was looking between getting the Steeda ones or the J&M ones. Neither of which mention coming with Banjo bolts or Copper washers. (Nevermind... looked at your Sig. Yeah, I doubt the aftermarket lines are coming with the necessary hardware; why ? Dunno. They sure are pricey enough to justify including them.)

Norm: Thanks. Will the HPS wear faster than the Ceramic? I suppose other than the dust, which you say isn't much of a problem, I guess the only other concern is which one is gonna wear out faster.

Norm Peterson

I can't possibly complain about HPS wear rates - I've had them in the Mustang for about 2 years and about 12,000 miles that has intentionally included quite a lot of hard braking (up until recently getting laid off, I was doing on a daily basis a 65 - 30 snub immediately followed by a full 55 - 0 stop coming up to and into the office complex). There's still have plenty of pad left, guessing well over half-thickness. I also have HPS pads in the Mazda 626 and the Nissan Maxima, and they've been in those cars for considerably longer.


Norm

Menace

Alrighty Norm, you sold me on the HPS...

++ Update ++

The HPS perform like stock when cold. My first impressions was a little disappointing but they do better after extended driving where they are a little warmer.

Menace

While still trying to search for Caliper guide pins, banjo bolts, and washers... I stumbled across some caliper guide pins, made by raybestos and it says made for 2005-2012 Mustang.

It has two part numbers for Front/Back. They also have Motorcraft ones available.

RAYBESTOS Part # H5097 Rear $6.83
RAYBESTOS Part # H5060 Professional Grade Front $7.59

MOTORCRAFT Part # BRCK5060A Front $9.94
MOTORCRAFT Part # BRCK5096 Rear $11.54

++Update++

While waiting for all my parts to come in I was trying to gather everything I needed to complete this project. Since I purchased New take-off calipers the guide pins were perfect and didn't need to be replaced. So unless your guide pins present some issues then don't even worry about this, as I didn't have to either.