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eibach pro kit

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Old Sep 22, 2012 | 12:41 PM
  #1  
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13pony
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Default eibach pro kit

Got the Magnaflows in, now she's almost done for now. Let's see....MGW check. FRPP tune, check. Tint, check. FRPP clutch line, check. Now....gotta drop it! Thinking of starting with the pro-kit, the question is: if you've done this how much did your rear end move? Is the expensive panhard bar really needed? Search here gives no real answer so I just want some real answers from guys that have done it! cash don't grow on trees here, only in commercials! For $225 I can get the springs on ebay, and a shop here will put it in and align it for $250. Add the $200 for the pbar and I'll have to wait awhile.....really want it now! Thanks for any and all response.....Steve
Old Sep 23, 2012 | 01:27 PM
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You can do the install yourself and save alot. Also, I just bought a new adjustable PHB for 100$
Old Sep 24, 2012 | 11:43 AM
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Cool! Wish you lived closer.....which pbh?
Old Sep 24, 2012 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 13pony
Cool! Wish you lived closer.....which pbh?
Can get a J&M phb on AM for $114 free shipping for 10-13's, and 05-09's.

It's not all polished and pretty like some that are out there, but I don't plan on having too many people look under my girl's skirt...
Old Sep 24, 2012 | 01:40 PM
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heh...heh! I'll check 'em out!
Old Sep 24, 2012 | 02:02 PM
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Like what baddog said, doing the springs yourself really isn't too hard.. and gives you the chance to learn something.. And save some money of course.. You can go without the phb, IIRC without it will offset the rear about a half inch, someone correct me if I'm off on that.. But if you can get it, do it. If you have to wait, then no biggie.
Old Sep 24, 2012 | 03:02 PM
  #7  
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I bought a Whiteline PHB, second-hand but never used. And I lied, it was 130 or 135, but still a few bones cheaper than new. Got it in the classifieds section along with a matching Whiteline PHB brace.
Old Sep 25, 2012 | 12:27 PM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by 13pony
Got the Magnaflows in, now she's almost done for now. Let's see....MGW check. FRPP tune, check. Tint, check. FRPP clutch line, check. Now....gotta drop it! Thinking of starting with the pro-kit, the question is: if you've done this how much did your rear end move? Is the expensive panhard bar really needed? Search here gives no real answer so I just want some real answers from guys that have done it! cash don't grow on trees here, only in commercials! For $225 I can get the springs on ebay, and a shop here will put it in and align it for $250. Add the $200 for the pbar and I'll have to wait awhile.....really want it now! Thanks for any and all response.....Steve
Check out our Steeda Ultralite springs, they sound like they might fit what you're looking for: http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-s...e-springs.html

They offer an approximate 1.25" (F) & 1.5" (R) drop, improved handling, are made in the USA and feature a lifetime warranty.

Let me know if I can help you with anything. I can setup a package deal for you if you want to also get our adjustable panhard bar.
Old Sep 25, 2012 | 09:48 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by SteedaBrandon
Check out our Steeda Ultralite springs, they sound like they might fit what you're looking for: http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-s...e-springs.html

They offer an approximate 1.25" (F) & 1.5" (R) drop, improved handling, are made in the USA and feature a lifetime warranty.

Let me know if I can help you with anything. I can setup a package deal for you if you want to also get our adjustable panhard bar.
I always thought the linear spring didn't provide as smooth of a ride than progressive ones. So why do you feel that the Ultralite's would provide a smooth ride compared to the Eibach Pro kit ?
Old Sep 26, 2012 | 11:14 AM
  #10  
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It's weird you ask this, I actually installed a set of Pro series on my friends car last night. He's got an 08 V6, but I'm sure the rear install is pretty similar. To drop the rear axle, you remove your wheels, the brake line brackets in your wheel wells so it doesn't rip those out, then take off your top sway bar bolt and let the rest of it rest on the ground, and also take out the bottom bolt for your shocks. Before you do all that, you need to have your car jacked up by the rear diff, and also have 2 jackstands SECURELY on good weld points. After you have done all this, drop the differential by slowly lowering your jack and your whole axle comes down. Remember where the pigtails in the shocks end before you pop them out. Push down on your axle, and take each spring out. Pop the new ones in, make sure the more coiled side is facing up, line them up evenly with one another, and then put everything back together. Your car may be too low for your jack it fit under it now, so to avoid crushing a jack under your car put some blocks under your rear tires before you lower it back down. The back is really easy to do, and it took a couple of first timers all of an hour and forty five minutes.

They're not super low, as he has some big Pirelli's on there, but it definitely gave it a nicer look. The car has a better center of gravity and grips up a lot better in the turns. He got his for free from a friend, and we installed it for free in one day. Personally if you're lowering your car and you like to go fast (which we all do) I would suggest upgrading your panhard bar, and check your tie rods to make sure they will hold up. If not, Steeda sells those too.

Here's a picture. Good luck dude!



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