me? nope... You must be thinking of Jason. Yes, the Whiteline stuff is nice.

 

Ha, yeah probably was.. The Whiteline stuff is nice, can't really go wrong with it.. I have BMR sways and endlinks and have no complaints..

 

Sounds like a roll steer issue.

The rear axle actually steers slightly as the car rolls in a corner - or from the engine torque reaction carried back through the chassis. Normally, when a car rolls one way (say to the right as in a left turn) the axle steers left, and the S197 is certainly normal in this respect. The fact that the S197 has a more rigid chassis than earlier Mustangs makes the axle steer effect more noticeable, not less so.

The harder you can torque the car over (more power, numerically higher gearing, better rear tire grip), the more degrees of roll you're going to get, and the more roll steer will happen.

The rate of axle steer increases as the car is lowered. The more the car is lowered, the more axle steer you get per each degree of roll, compounding the steer effect.

This axle steer is more commonly part of corner-carving discussions, and it's in the vehicle "understeer" direction while cornering. But it has straight line connotation as well - as the body is rolling over to the right from the torque reaction the axle is still going to steer left. And as it does so, the whole car is going to start pointing slightly to the right. Right?

Correcting this can take either of two paths, or both. You can either stiffen the car in roll to cut the amount of roll, which is partly what the huge rear stabilizer bars typically advertised as "drag race antiroll bars" are intended for. You can correct the axle steer geometry with LCA relocating brackets to cut down how much roll steer happens for each degree of roll. Maybe both, if necessary. But for a lowered car driven on the street, I'd start with the relo brackets, using the upper adjustment and work from there only if necessary.

I am not surprised that some people notice this more than others - I haven't seen this complaint very often, although I have heard quite a few comments about Fox/SN95/GM Intermediates launching a lot straighter after an "antiroll bar" was installed.


Norm

 

Thanks Norm. I think I will start with the Relocation brackets and go from there with sway bars.

I also checked the air pressure last night to see where Discount tire had it set. They had 38psi all the way around. I dropped it to 34 and it seemed to help slightly but that might be in my head.

 

Nice bit of knowledge Norm, Thanks

Thanks for the heads up Jeff

 

ok, Whiteline Relocation brackets on order.

Tonight I plan to get the rear end up in the air and inspect all of the poly bushings, tightness of suspension components and grease what I can.

Last night was my wedding anniversary and I wasn't brave enough to get caught in the garage with the "mistress".

 

Good choice Jeff! Let us know how you like them! What were your impressions of the parts you saw on Jasons car?

 

The parts on Jasons car were nice... new parts always have that certain "glow" about them. If he would stop tearing his car apart and drive it I would ask him how he likes that rear sway bar since it seems that I will probably be upgrading mine soon too.


I did question Jason as to why BMR has multiple holes on their brackets and yours only have 1 hole. I assume you guys have done your homework and know that the one hole fits all so to speak.

 

I figured out my problem...

Lower control arm bushing





I have already talked to the Manufacturer and am sending him the lower control arms for them to inspect.

 

Is that a chassis or axle bushing?

Driver or passenger side?


Norm