Have basic hand tools, small breaker bar, torque wrench, jack stands and proper sockets to change out front LCAs with GT500 parts.

Is it possible with simple hand tools? I don't have an impact gun. I've watched a couple videos but I can't tell if my car which has seen some winters will be easy.

I understand the frame mounts require significant torque specs, like 172 ft-lbs. Can a guy with average strength get those bolts loose and get enough leverage to tighten them back up? Car will be on jack stands so I won't be able to get all the way under the car for better leverage.

Do I really need to loosen and disconnect the tie rods to get the arms out? Do I need a pry bar? How much time should I budget? A whole day? If I need a shop to do it, what should I expect to pay?

Thanks everyone.

 

It can be done with hand tools. It helps to have ratcheting wrenches, a length of pipe (for leverage), and a "pickle fork".
The rear LCA bolts are flag bolts inserted from the bottom, so the nut on top turns. The front LCA bolt (inserted from the front) has a welded nut. Dropping the tie rod end helps in getting that bolt out past the boot.

 

Ok, pickle bar instead of pry bar.

Without being able to get under the car really, 17 inch jack stands, can the bolts be tightened to the proper torque specs, 172 ft-lbs, from basically access to the wheel well?

I had a bear of a time getting the rear LCAs to 129 ft-lbs since again I only had real access from the wheel well and was using one arm.

Basically I'm closer to Chris Farley in size and and David Spade in strength.

 

A pry bar comes in handy to get the ball joint stud out of the spindle hole. The length of pipe should give you leverage to torque stuff up pretty good. I used a 3 foot length of 3" schedule 40 PVC pipe I had lying around.

The rear nuts on the LCA were a bear to get off. The flag bolt comes up from the bottom and it stuck up so far it prevented my socket from fitting. So I used either an 18 or 21 mm ratcheting (don't remember the actual size) wrench with the PVC pipe to break the nut loose. I didn't torque the nuts after but I did use the wrench and pipe to snug them up pretty darn tight. This was 40k miles ago and no problems since.

 

I had to go to Napa to get a box wrench as my headers were blocking the nut and I couldnt get a ratchet on it. No biggie. I forget the size but its one of the rear bolts near where the headers come down. I dont think I even plugged in my compressor and yes we did it with jackstands. I have never used a lift installing mods on my car. You can do it, dont pay a shop. Just follow the DIY guide. I think I printed one off americanmuscle.com

 

Thanks, I'll check that site for a write up.

I have ratcheting wrenches and deep sockets, breaker bar, torque wrench, extensions, etc. no impact stuff though. Sounds like the nuts are a PIA to get off. Plan on using lock-tite and reuse bolts, unless new nylon nuts are mandatory.

 

On my particular car I had to loosen the rack in order to get the front LCA bolts out, but I've heard that turning the steering to the far extreme makes it doable. The rack has welded nuts on the bottom and really really hard to reach bolts on top. It was no fun.

On the rear bolts I reassembled with the flag bolt on top and nut on the bottom to hopefully make things a bit easier next time.

 

Just ordered GT500 front LCAs from Strano parts. Good doing business with you again Sam.

 

Ford put them in 'backwards' for a reason. I would not tempt fate
and install them as you deem correct nor advise anyone else to do so.

 

Why would you need anything else for this job?

Hot tip>>The Steeda race front control arms are a much better buy than the GT500 arms. Firm poly bushings on both ends plus a tall X5 ball joint to correct geometry on reduced ride height cars. If you want some GT500 arms I have a no/low mileage set you can buy.