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Which brake "upgrade"?
#1
Which brake "upgrade"?
I have read several posts on brakes and rotors with a lot of good advice. I am looking to upgrade, on a budget. My car is a DD without a lot of hardcore mods…the performance mods I have done: a tune, CAI, pulleys, and exhaust...I wish I could afford to get blown, but I will never have the cash for that.
I have never taken it to the track…although I would like to someday. I do notice brake fade at time during spirited driving and I would like to remedy that…especially since my car has the wheels off and is in the air for the winter.
At first I was thinking about upgrading just the fronts with EBC dimpled and slotted and EBC pads (red stuff)…that would run about $300.
I have since read that the OE rotors are good and that getting new OE rotors and upgrading the pads is the best solution…for the average driver/car.
What would be better? Upgrading all four corners with OE rotors and better pads? Or upgrading the just the fronts with slotted rotors and better pads?
I have never taken it to the track…although I would like to someday. I do notice brake fade at time during spirited driving and I would like to remedy that…especially since my car has the wheels off and is in the air for the winter.
At first I was thinking about upgrading just the fronts with EBC dimpled and slotted and EBC pads (red stuff)…that would run about $300.
I have since read that the OE rotors are good and that getting new OE rotors and upgrading the pads is the best solution…for the average driver/car.
What would be better? Upgrading all four corners with OE rotors and better pads? Or upgrading the just the fronts with slotted rotors and better pads?
#2
on a budget? upgrade the fronts to the 2011 13.2 rotors for $150 bucks for the caliper brackets and rotors off of roush's ebay store, then get a good set of pads like the EBC's or Hawks. thats just my humble suggestion lol
#3
Are you front rotors shot? If not upgrade your F/R brake pads, stainless lines and brake fluid. You should notice a huge difference.
We sell Hawk pads, russell and goodridge brake lines along with MOTUL brake fluiid. After putting the lines and fluid in our 13 boss and 11 GT we noticed a huge difference.
We sell Hawk pads, russell and goodridge brake lines along with MOTUL brake fluiid. After putting the lines and fluid in our 13 boss and 11 GT we noticed a huge difference.
#5
Tigercrazy…I never considered that idea seems logical enough and would give more mass to the brakes to help with heat dissipation and also the distance of the calipers from the hub would result in greater stopping force. Have you done this to your ride? Also do you know if there are any fitment issues with 18 inch rims? I would assume there wouldn’t be since ’11 GT’s come with 18’s or 19’s.
Jay…the front rotors aren’t shot, but on hard braking it feels like the rotors are beginning to warp (a little pulsing in the pedal…and it isn’t the ABS)…with 50K on the car I know it is premature to replace them, but I just got new rims and it feels like the time to do it. I have read a few posts about fluid and I am surprised that new pads, fluid and SS lines with OE rotors would work as well as new slotted rotors and pads….I believe you and “jz” in your experience…I am just surprised by that suggestion.
I am not building a track car…just a better DD. How important is it to change the rears? Does the money a noticeable increase in performance (I am not a cheapa$$ believe it or not...just have a long list of things to spend money on haha)?
Would I be better off taking the money I would spend on front and rears and just spend the same amount higher quality stuff the fronts?
What about a combo approach? Upgrade to the ’11 front rotors, with new pads and lines?
Thanks for the input!
Jay…the front rotors aren’t shot, but on hard braking it feels like the rotors are beginning to warp (a little pulsing in the pedal…and it isn’t the ABS)…with 50K on the car I know it is premature to replace them, but I just got new rims and it feels like the time to do it. I have read a few posts about fluid and I am surprised that new pads, fluid and SS lines with OE rotors would work as well as new slotted rotors and pads….I believe you and “jz” in your experience…I am just surprised by that suggestion.
I am not building a track car…just a better DD. How important is it to change the rears? Does the money a noticeable increase in performance (I am not a cheapa$$ believe it or not...just have a long list of things to spend money on haha)?
Would I be better off taking the money I would spend on front and rears and just spend the same amount higher quality stuff the fronts?
What about a combo approach? Upgrade to the ’11 front rotors, with new pads and lines?
Thanks for the input!
#6
for anyone on a budget looking to improve their brake fade resistance and performance, I always suggest new pads, stainless steel brake lines, and some motul RBF (fluid). makes a hell of a difference. once the rubber lines/fluid boil up your brake feel goes to poop. if you can swing the larger front rotors, that would be good, too. : )
#7
Tigercrazy…I never considered that idea seems logical enough and would give more mass to the brakes to help with heat dissipation and also the distance of the calipers from the hub would result in greater stopping force. Have you done this to your ride? Also do you know if there are any fitment issues with 18 inch rims? I would assume there wouldn’t be since ’11 GT’s come with 18’s or 19’s.
Jay…the front rotors aren’t shot, but on hard braking it feels like the rotors are beginning to warp (a little pulsing in the pedal…and it isn’t the ABS)…with 50K on the car I know it is premature to replace them, but I just got new rims and it feels like the time to do it. I have read a few posts about fluid and I am surprised that new pads, fluid and SS lines with OE rotors would work as well as new slotted rotors and pads….I believe you and “jz” in your experience…I am just surprised by that suggestion.
I am not building a track car…just a better DD. How important is it to change the rears? Does the money a noticeable increase in performance (I am not a cheapa$$ believe it or not...just have a long list of things to spend money on haha)?
Would I be better off taking the money I would spend on front and rears and just spend the same amount higher quality stuff the fronts?
What about a combo approach? Upgrade to the ’11 front rotors, with new pads and lines?
Thanks for the input!
Jay…the front rotors aren’t shot, but on hard braking it feels like the rotors are beginning to warp (a little pulsing in the pedal…and it isn’t the ABS)…with 50K on the car I know it is premature to replace them, but I just got new rims and it feels like the time to do it. I have read a few posts about fluid and I am surprised that new pads, fluid and SS lines with OE rotors would work as well as new slotted rotors and pads….I believe you and “jz” in your experience…I am just surprised by that suggestion.
I am not building a track car…just a better DD. How important is it to change the rears? Does the money a noticeable increase in performance (I am not a cheapa$$ believe it or not...just have a long list of things to spend money on haha)?
Would I be better off taking the money I would spend on front and rears and just spend the same amount higher quality stuff the fronts?
What about a combo approach? Upgrade to the ’11 front rotors, with new pads and lines?
Thanks for the input!
#8
I have read several posts on brakes and rotors with a lot of good advice. I am looking to upgrade, on a budget. My car is a DD without a lot of hardcore mods…the performance mods I have done: a tune, CAI, pulleys, and exhaust...I wish I could afford to get blown, but I will never have the cash for that.
I have never taken it to the track…although I would like to someday. I do notice brake fade at time during spirited driving and I would like to remedy that…especially since my car has the wheels off and is in the air for the winter.
At first I was thinking about upgrading just the fronts with EBC dimpled and slotted and EBC pads (red stuff)…that would run about $300.
I have since read that the OE rotors are good and that getting new OE rotors and upgrading the pads is the best solution…for the average driver/car.
What would be better? Upgrading all four corners with OE rotors and better pads? Or upgrading the just the fronts with slotted rotors and better pads?
I have never taken it to the track…although I would like to someday. I do notice brake fade at time during spirited driving and I would like to remedy that…especially since my car has the wheels off and is in the air for the winter.
At first I was thinking about upgrading just the fronts with EBC dimpled and slotted and EBC pads (red stuff)…that would run about $300.
I have since read that the OE rotors are good and that getting new OE rotors and upgrading the pads is the best solution…for the average driver/car.
What would be better? Upgrading all four corners with OE rotors and better pads? Or upgrading the just the fronts with slotted rotors and better pads?
I UPGRADED to the 2011 GT Take-Off Kit from Roush on eBay.
It cost me about $150 + $50 shipped to Canada, but I believe its free shipping to the US. What I got included in this package was (All in perfect condition)
Bigger Front Rotors
Bigger Front Calipers
Bigger Front Pads
Rear Rotors
Rear Pads
And after speaking with their Customer Service, I also got the rear rotors and pads thrown in for free.
Install was basic, straight forward, fits both my sets of wheels, 18s in winter and 20s in summer, I even managed to toss MGP Caliper covers on em, no contact, no rub.
When it comes Pad replacement Time, I will go ahead and stick with Hawk Pads, great for day-to-day driving, low dust and noise as well.
#9
Your setup seems a lot like mine, no crazy aggressive mods - keeping it basic, and mine is a V6 too.
I UPGRADED to the 2011 GT Take-Off Kit from Roush on eBay.
It cost me about $150 + $50 shipped to Canada, but I believe its free shipping to the US. What I got included in this package was (All in perfect condition)
Bigger Front Rotors
Bigger Front Calipers
Bigger Front Pads
Rear Rotors
Rear Pads
And after speaking with their Customer Service, I also got the rear rotors and pads thrown in for free.
Install was basic, straight forward, fits both my sets of wheels, 18s in winter and 20s in summer, I even managed to toss MGP Caliper covers on em, no contact, no rub.
When it comes Pad replacement Time, I will go ahead and stick with Hawk Pads, great for day-to-day driving, low dust and noise as well.
I UPGRADED to the 2011 GT Take-Off Kit from Roush on eBay.
It cost me about $150 + $50 shipped to Canada, but I believe its free shipping to the US. What I got included in this package was (All in perfect condition)
Bigger Front Rotors
Bigger Front Calipers
Bigger Front Pads
Rear Rotors
Rear Pads
And after speaking with their Customer Service, I also got the rear rotors and pads thrown in for free.
Install was basic, straight forward, fits both my sets of wheels, 18s in winter and 20s in summer, I even managed to toss MGP Caliper covers on em, no contact, no rub.
When it comes Pad replacement Time, I will go ahead and stick with Hawk Pads, great for day-to-day driving, low dust and noise as well.
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