Suspension Build
If your issue in the rear and swaying still remains then consider a watts link and sway bars next.
The sta-bars are interesting. The rear bar seems way over kill, 27mm solid bar when stock was 20mm and was rated at 95lbs/in. The whiteline bar might be close to 250lbs/in which may make the rear end real touchy. Granted, since its adjustable, the softer setting may be much lower, you would have to mess around with it. Conversely, the front bar is only 33mm while most competitors are closer to 36mm and tubular. I wonder how much that white line stuff weighs compared to Strano bars.
I can't tell from the link if the ball joints are taller than stock and require 18 in wheels, should make sure if you are not doing wheels at the same time.
I would think that on the track, your complaint about the panhard bar is more than likely not the real source of the handling woes but rather the stock shocks, stock sway bars, and the stock 17 rubber.
Just my 2 cents
I can't tell from the link if the ball joints are taller than stock and require 18 in wheels, should make sure if you are not doing wheels at the same time.
I would think that on the track, your complaint about the panhard bar is more than likely not the real source of the handling woes but rather the stock shocks, stock sway bars, and the stock 17 rubber.
Just my 2 cents
Good point.. Lol. somehow I didn't even realize that shocks and struts weren't listed on the mod list. This is probably your issue. The improper dampening will cause the ride to feel bouncy and allow a lot of swaying still. I say go with the Koni Sports first and see how they do. They could be enough on their own for the most part.
If your issue in the rear and swaying still remains then consider a watts link and sway bars next.
If your issue in the rear and swaying still remains then consider a watts link and sway bars next.
Last edited by CMcNam; Feb 1, 2013 at 12:49 PM.
I think 19's would provide more of a balance of corner stability and traction but I'm also no road course racer so what do I know? Lol. Tires for 19 inch wheels would be more expensive though too so 18's will probably do well. You would just have to find some with the proper offset to fit the bigger brakes.
I think 19's would provide more of a balance of corner stability and traction but I'm also no road course racer so what do I know? Lol. Tires for 19 inch wheels would be more expensive though too so 18's will probably do well. You would just have to find some with the proper offset to fit the bigger brakes.
CMcNam,
I chose the Strano bars for several reasons. I liked the idea of tubular for weight savings and the higher grade materials. I wanted adjustable so I could better match it with different rubber and my driving style. I also got great advice from Sam and so went with his product. He updated his website. He has the OE and many competitors bars from a stiffness perspective on the rear 25mm tubular bar link, check it out. You should be able to see where the whiteline product will fit in. Currently I'm in the middle holes front and rear. With my old spherical joint rear LCAs the middle hole which is around 186lbs/in was good for the crappy streets. I recently went back to the stock rear LCAs and the rear end is softer around turns, new LCAs being delivered as we speak. If I hadn't been planning on going bar to a stiffer LCA I could either move to the stiffest hole on the rear bar or go with a stiffer sidewall tire (18s) to firm the rear back up around turns.
I recommend the Strano bars but you would be happy with any new rear bar as all are stiffer than stock and a big improvement. But as I said above, I like the light weight of the tubular bar and the adjustability. The Strano bars are cheaper than a compareable Steeda or brand X bar.
As far as the front bar is concerned, the car handles better (subjective I know) with a bigger bar, so I would go with a bigger bar. If I remember right the stock GT bar is close to 32-33mm and is solid so I don't know how much stiffer the whiteline 33mm bar will be. I'm sure with it being adjustable it spans the stock bar's rating.
I don't know how many miles you have on ur stock end links but I recently found one of mine to be bad. I would say that after increasing the front bar stiffness the Achilles heel will be the end links. Steeda has some competition (ie adjustable) back on sale, otherwise whiteline or Strano have some for a few bucks more.
It's cool that you are doing the stuff one at a time. You will be able to appreciate the improvements in ride and understand how each component affects the handling. I would speculate that the shocks and wheels and tires will yield the biggest change.
I chose the Strano bars for several reasons. I liked the idea of tubular for weight savings and the higher grade materials. I wanted adjustable so I could better match it with different rubber and my driving style. I also got great advice from Sam and so went with his product. He updated his website. He has the OE and many competitors bars from a stiffness perspective on the rear 25mm tubular bar link, check it out. You should be able to see where the whiteline product will fit in. Currently I'm in the middle holes front and rear. With my old spherical joint rear LCAs the middle hole which is around 186lbs/in was good for the crappy streets. I recently went back to the stock rear LCAs and the rear end is softer around turns, new LCAs being delivered as we speak. If I hadn't been planning on going bar to a stiffer LCA I could either move to the stiffest hole on the rear bar or go with a stiffer sidewall tire (18s) to firm the rear back up around turns.
I recommend the Strano bars but you would be happy with any new rear bar as all are stiffer than stock and a big improvement. But as I said above, I like the light weight of the tubular bar and the adjustability. The Strano bars are cheaper than a compareable Steeda or brand X bar.
As far as the front bar is concerned, the car handles better (subjective I know) with a bigger bar, so I would go with a bigger bar. If I remember right the stock GT bar is close to 32-33mm and is solid so I don't know how much stiffer the whiteline 33mm bar will be. I'm sure with it being adjustable it spans the stock bar's rating.
I don't know how many miles you have on ur stock end links but I recently found one of mine to be bad. I would say that after increasing the front bar stiffness the Achilles heel will be the end links. Steeda has some competition (ie adjustable) back on sale, otherwise whiteline or Strano have some for a few bucks more.
It's cool that you are doing the stuff one at a time. You will be able to appreciate the improvements in ride and understand how each component affects the handling. I would speculate that the shocks and wheels and tires will yield the biggest change.
Last edited by UrS4; Feb 1, 2013 at 10:51 PM.
I went with the Shelby Performance Parts front End Links. I am happy with them, but they still are a little difficult to adjust on car. Since I bought them UPR Products have come out with a version using a socket headed cap screw. Would appear to be a little easier to access than the Shelby Links. Anyone have any first hand experience with the UPR End Links?

UPR Products:
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-b...-05-satin.html
and a polished version:
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-b...-polished.html

UPR Products:
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-b...-05-satin.html
and a polished version:
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-b...-polished.html
CMcNam,
I chose the Strano bars for several reasons. I liked the idea of tubular for weight savings and the higher grade materials. I wanted adjustable so I could better match it with different rubber and my driving style. I also got great advice from Sam and so went with his product. He updated his website. He has the OE and many competitors bars from a stiffness perspective on the rear 25mm tubular bar link, check it out. You should be able to see where the whiteline product will fit in. Currently I'm in the middle holes front and rear. With my old spherical joint rear LCAs the middle hole which is around 186lbs/in was good for the crappy streets. I recently went back to the stock rear LCAs and the rear end is softer around turns, new LCAs being delivered as we speak. If I hadn't been planning on going bar to a stiffer LCA I could either move to the stiffest hole on the rear bar or go with a stiffer sidewall tire (18s) to firm the rear back up around turns.
I recommend the Strano bars but you would be happy with any new rear bar as all are stiffer than stock and a big improvement. But as I said above, I like the light weight of the tubular bar and the adjustability. The Strano bars are cheaper than a compareable Steeda or brand X bar.
As far as the front bar is concerned, the car handles better (subjective I know) with a bigger bar, so I would go with a bigger bar. If I remember right the stock GT bar is close to 32-33mm and is solid so I don't know how much stiffer the whiteline 33mm bar will be. I'm sure with it being adjustable it spans the stock bar's rating.
I don't know how many miles you have on ur stock end links but I recently found one of mine to be bad. I would say that after increasing the front bar stiffness the Achilles heel will be the end links. Steeda has some competition (ie adjustable) back on sale, otherwise whiteline or Strano have some for a few bucks more.
It's cool that you are doing the stuff one at a time. You will be able to appreciate the improvements in ride and understand how each component affects the handling. I would speculate that the shocks and wheels and tires will yield the biggest change.
I chose the Strano bars for several reasons. I liked the idea of tubular for weight savings and the higher grade materials. I wanted adjustable so I could better match it with different rubber and my driving style. I also got great advice from Sam and so went with his product. He updated his website. He has the OE and many competitors bars from a stiffness perspective on the rear 25mm tubular bar link, check it out. You should be able to see where the whiteline product will fit in. Currently I'm in the middle holes front and rear. With my old spherical joint rear LCAs the middle hole which is around 186lbs/in was good for the crappy streets. I recently went back to the stock rear LCAs and the rear end is softer around turns, new LCAs being delivered as we speak. If I hadn't been planning on going bar to a stiffer LCA I could either move to the stiffest hole on the rear bar or go with a stiffer sidewall tire (18s) to firm the rear back up around turns.
I recommend the Strano bars but you would be happy with any new rear bar as all are stiffer than stock and a big improvement. But as I said above, I like the light weight of the tubular bar and the adjustability. The Strano bars are cheaper than a compareable Steeda or brand X bar.
As far as the front bar is concerned, the car handles better (subjective I know) with a bigger bar, so I would go with a bigger bar. If I remember right the stock GT bar is close to 32-33mm and is solid so I don't know how much stiffer the whiteline 33mm bar will be. I'm sure with it being adjustable it spans the stock bar's rating.
I don't know how many miles you have on ur stock end links but I recently found one of mine to be bad. I would say that after increasing the front bar stiffness the Achilles heel will be the end links. Steeda has some competition (ie adjustable) back on sale, otherwise whiteline or Strano have some for a few bucks more.
It's cool that you are doing the stuff one at a time. You will be able to appreciate the improvements in ride and understand how each component affects the handling. I would speculate that the shocks and wheels and tires will yield the biggest change.
These are the bullit wheels I'm considering. I'm hoping that with the 38mm offset, they won't rub with a 285 tire and hoping the spoke pattern will clear a BBK.
http://www.performanceplustire.com/p...lDataID/112007
http://www.performanceplustire.com/p...lDataID/112007
These are the bullit wheels I'm considering. I'm hoping that with the 38mm offset, they won't rub with a 285 tire and hoping the spoke pattern will clear a BBK.
http://www.performanceplustire.com/p...lDataID/112007
http://www.performanceplustire.com/p...lDataID/112007
I went with the Shelby Performance Parts front End Links. I am happy with them, but they still are a little difficult to adjust on car. Since I bought them UPR Products have come out with a version using a socket headed cap screw. Would appear to be a little easier to access than the Shelby Links. Anyone have any first hand experience with the UPR End Links?

UPR Products:
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-b...-05-satin.html
and a polished version:
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-b...-polished.html

UPR Products:
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-b...-05-satin.html
and a polished version:
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-b...-polished.html
I'm using the UPR end links on my car. They were super easy to install, and they look nice.
Regarding the OP's suspension choices, I like the Koni Yellows, I prefer UPR control arms, and I'm using UPR's PHB. But Watts Links are nice.
Here's my setup and I'm very pleased with it:
https://mustangforums.com/forum/s197...g-package.html


