None taken. My plates clunked the first time I drove it too...then I torqued it to the correct spec because I had read the instructions wrong the first time. No noise now. If you think about how the plates work versus the bolts, they just seem like a more logical (safer) choice, at least they did to me. I also drive my car very hard though.

 

I've never had a problem with my eibach camber bolts. Mine isn't a race car, but I do throw it into turns faster than I probably should on the street. I've had the front end aligned several times due to changing things and I've never noticed any weird tire wear.

I was coming home and taking a 90ish turn around a car stopped at a stop sign on my left. I've done it a thousand times and I hammer it out of that corner. Well that particular day two county sheriff cars had a truck pulled over and were partially in my lane. I've never had a cop give me such a dirty look when I drove around them. I just stared him down. I'm 40 and dirty looks don't faze me anymore.

 

I could feel the improvement in the car's handling the first time I drove it with the upgraded LCAs. They help as much (or more) in the corners as they did in a straight line. The factory LCAs are just awful.

I'm using these, btw.

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-c...ushing-05.html

 

I've only used Cam-Bolts for a modest 1" drop. I'd also have a competent alignment shop do them and insure they're torqued to speck. With all major suspension work an alignment and spin balance will make a car drive better then when you first got it.

 

Camber bolts are fine. Most of the horror stories are told in third person anyways, you'll have a hard time finding an actual person. Racing the car doesn't count though. Don't get me wrong, I still recommend CC plates as well as I enjoy the adjustability. Also I would opt to get a different set of struts but that's just me.

 

Update: Here is the shopping list that I ended up ordering. The STR.T's are on back-order so it will be awhile before I have some pictures. I got the windows tinted today with the money I saved using this setup.

2 37800 - Koni STR.T Front Strut (05-10 All)


2 37801 - Koni STR.T Rear Shock (05-10 All)


1 30008 - J&M Camber Plates (05-10 All)


1 30030 - J&M Adjustable Panhard Rod - Steel (05-14 All)


1 50153 - Ford Racing Lowering P-Springs - Coupe (05-14 GT)


1 30020 - J&M Extreme Joint Rear Lower Control Arms (05-14 All)

 

That's a good looking list!

 

Update: The front struts are finally back in stock and shipping out, so I should have all this installed before Mustang Week.

 

I got the rears finished today.

 

F**K the plates. Are you going to change them from day to day?
Cam Bolts, make sure they're torqued to spec or they'll get their nick name "Crash Bolts".
$24 or $300+ and you've got to take the struts out and lose the GT-500 mounts ($109 in the trash). I'd do Bump Steer on the steering and Ball Joints later when funds are available. Bump, Bolts, balance tires and a front end alignment your done.
Camber Plate people just want you to make the same mistake so they don't feel alone.

Lower Control Brackets (Whiteline $110) will fit between your LCA and the axil attachment point and reduce wheel hop (Like the traction bars of the 70's).

What are your plans? street, track, drag, daily driver. If you plan to install a one piece driveshaft an adjustable UPA with reenforced mounting bracket would be nice. The Pinion Angle can be adjusted with the UCA to reduce a whine you may pick-up with a shaft that's not perpendicular to the differential.

Later


Steeda Bump Steer and X-11 Ball Joints.