New Suspension - Any thoughts?
#11
I'm not trying to play devil's advocate but in the dozens and dozens of threads I've read about bolts vs plates I've seen more complaints about plates (noise, clunking) and more 'stories' about bolts than anything else. I've contacted some of the big speed shops and tuners both locally and across the country with questions ranging from blocks to suspensions and whenever I asked about the safety of bolts versus plates they never hesitated to give a thumbs up even if they weren't the ones selling them. I'm sure I could find someone that has had problems with them but it isn't as people have made it out to be. Just makes you wonder if it's an internet conspiracy, no offense to anyone.
#12
I've never had a problem with my eibach camber bolts. Mine isn't a race car, but I do throw it into turns faster than I probably should on the street. I've had the front end aligned several times due to changing things and I've never noticed any weird tire wear.
I was coming home and taking a 90ish turn around a car stopped at a stop sign on my left. I've done it a thousand times and I hammer it out of that corner. Well that particular day two county sheriff cars had a truck pulled over and were partially in my lane. I've never had a cop give me such a dirty look when I drove around them. I just stared him down. I'm 40 and dirty looks don't faze me anymore.
I was coming home and taking a 90ish turn around a car stopped at a stop sign on my left. I've done it a thousand times and I hammer it out of that corner. Well that particular day two county sheriff cars had a truck pulled over and were partially in my lane. I've never had a cop give me such a dirty look when I drove around them. I just stared him down. I'm 40 and dirty looks don't faze me anymore.
#13
Hey pinn, is this for track? Daily driver? Did you order/install this setup?
I'm curious because mine is a DD and I'm wondering what kind of difference LCAs would make. I got what you got for my 13, except the LCAs. The AM guys talked me into the plates instead of the bolts. But that I put the last of my budget toward them, so I can't swing the control arms right now.
I'm curious because mine is a DD and I'm wondering what kind of difference LCAs would make. I got what you got for my 13, except the LCAs. The AM guys talked me into the plates instead of the bolts. But that I put the last of my budget toward them, so I can't swing the control arms right now.
I'm using these, btw.
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-c...ushing-05.html
#14
I've only used Cam-Bolts for a modest 1" drop. I'd also have a competent alignment shop do them and insure they're torqued to speck. With all major suspension work an alignment and spin balance will make a car drive better then when you first got it.
Last edited by code3GT; 07-10-2013 at 12:25 PM.
#15
Camber bolts are fine. Most of the horror stories are told in third person anyways, you'll have a hard time finding an actual person. Racing the car doesn't count though. Don't get me wrong, I still recommend CC plates as well as I enjoy the adjustability. Also I would opt to get a different set of struts but that's just me.
#16
Update: Here is the shopping list that I ended up ordering. The STR.T's are on back-order so it will be awhile before I have some pictures. I got the windows tinted today with the money I saved using this setup.
2 37800 - Koni STR.T Front Strut (05-10 All)
2 37801 - Koni STR.T Rear Shock (05-10 All)
1 30008 - J&M Camber Plates (05-10 All)
1 30030 - J&M Adjustable Panhard Rod - Steel (05-14 All)
1 50153 - Ford Racing Lowering P-Springs - Coupe (05-14 GT)
1 30020 - J&M Extreme Joint Rear Lower Control Arms (05-14 All)
2 37800 - Koni STR.T Front Strut (05-10 All)
2 37801 - Koni STR.T Rear Shock (05-10 All)
1 30008 - J&M Camber Plates (05-10 All)
1 30030 - J&M Adjustable Panhard Rod - Steel (05-14 All)
1 50153 - Ford Racing Lowering P-Springs - Coupe (05-14 GT)
1 30020 - J&M Extreme Joint Rear Lower Control Arms (05-14 All)
#20
F**K the plates. Are you going to change them from day to day?
Cam Bolts, make sure they're torqued to spec or they'll get their nick name "Crash Bolts".
$24 or $300+ and you've got to take the struts out and lose the GT-500 mounts ($109 in the trash). I'd do Bump Steer on the steering and Ball Joints later when funds are available. Bump, Bolts, balance tires and a front end alignment your done.
Camber Plate people just want you to make the same mistake so they don't feel alone.
Lower Control Brackets (Whiteline $110) will fit between your LCA and the axil attachment point and reduce wheel hop (Like the traction bars of the 70's).
What are your plans? street, track, drag, daily driver. If you plan to install a one piece driveshaft an adjustable UPA with reenforced mounting bracket would be nice. The Pinion Angle can be adjusted with the UCA to reduce a whine you may pick-up with a shaft that's not perpendicular to the differential.
Later
Steeda Bump Steer and X-11 Ball Joints.
Cam Bolts, make sure they're torqued to spec or they'll get their nick name "Crash Bolts".
$24 or $300+ and you've got to take the struts out and lose the GT-500 mounts ($109 in the trash). I'd do Bump Steer on the steering and Ball Joints later when funds are available. Bump, Bolts, balance tires and a front end alignment your done.
Camber Plate people just want you to make the same mistake so they don't feel alone.
Lower Control Brackets (Whiteline $110) will fit between your LCA and the axil attachment point and reduce wheel hop (Like the traction bars of the 70's).
What are your plans? street, track, drag, daily driver. If you plan to install a one piece driveshaft an adjustable UPA with reenforced mounting bracket would be nice. The Pinion Angle can be adjusted with the UCA to reduce a whine you may pick-up with a shaft that's not perpendicular to the differential.
Later
Steeda Bump Steer and X-11 Ball Joints.
Last edited by VistaBlueFrank68; 06-29-2013 at 11:07 PM.