Agreed.

 

But that one isn't the aluminum one with the dual adjustments. That's the one I had, and it was a pain in the *** to install. I eventually replaced it with a FRPP part that's configured like the one you installed.

 

To the OP, this following are the suspension parts I've installed in my car over the last year:

Eibach Pro springs
Koni Str.t shocks/struts
Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates
Eibach adjustable sway bars
FRPP panhard bar
Whiteline Panhard bar brace
Whitelin LCA relocation brackets
SR Performance LCAs
Steeda front LCAs
Steeda bump-steer kit

I'm currently working toward replacing the panhard bar/panhard bar brace with a Fays2 watts link.

Camber bolts are sufficient for a lightly driving street car, but caster/camber plates are more adjustable in terms of tuning the suspension.

The rear LCA relocation brackets will allow more power to hit the ground because they correct the LCA geometry. I recommend getting adjustable rear LCAs if you get relocation brackets to avoid potential pinion angle problems when you use the brackets.

 

I'm not talking about a panhard bar with the adjustment in the middle - I'm talking about the ones with the adjuster about a foot from one end.

The bar the OP cited has a dual adjustment, but both adjustments are right at the end of the bar. This design makes it impossible to tighten the lock nut whit the bar is on the car. Even locking it down when it's out of the car is a pain because invariably, you twist the end and it won't allow the bolt to go through when you try to put it in the car. If you force it, you will most likely loosed the lock nut again.

Like I said, the J&M aluminum panhard bar is a hassle. When you're under the car in 100+ degree heat, the last thing you need is a part that requires you to repeatedly get out from under the car to tweak it. The J&M Steel bar is only $10 more and is a better configuration.

 

OP I shot you a pm.

 

Rears are all installed without issue. One of my STR struts was bad out of the box when I went to do the fronts so the fronts won't be done for Mustang Week as they are still backordered forever...

 

Norm-
Do you have a suggestion for what you mention above-- a PHB that requires disconnect to adjust? I like the J&M adjustable option, but am curious which you would recommend. Thnx-

 

There used to be more, but I know UMI Performance still has one. Otherwise there are ways to pretty much lock one side of a double-adjustable/on-car PHB into a fixed position.


Norm

 

You can use ours that way:

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-p...rd-bar-05.html

 

Let's let the suspension get done and a few track days under OP's belt first. Cording sets of Hoosiers while you're still learning how to drive anywhere near that hard somewhere near right gets ex$$$$pensive in a hurry. Either that or you heat-cycle them out of their best grip without ever benefitting from it.


Norm