New Suspension - Any thoughts?
#25
I know this isn't what you asked for.....but, this is a good entry level suspension.
D-Spec Struts/shocks $610
http://www.americanmuscle.com/tokico...trut-0509.html
H&R Supersport Springs $250
http://www.americanmuscle.com/hr-sup...ings-2005.html
J&M UCA $140
http://www.americanmuscle.com/adj-up...s-jnm2005.html
J&M LCA’s $100
http://www.americanmuscle.com/2005-p...ling-arms.html
J&M Camber Plates $210
http://www.americanmuscle.com/2005-c...er-plates.html
Scott Drake Bump Steer Kit $140
http://www.americanmuscle.com/scottd...teer-0510.html
Steeda Ball Joint Kit $160
http://www.americanmuscle.com/steeda...ll-joints.html
J&M Aluminum Panhard Bar $115
http://www.americanmuscle.com/jm-panhard-0509.html
Steeda Rear Swaybar $160
http://www.americanmuscle.com/steeda...ybar-0510.html
Most people would consider this a good track day setup. I call it just getting started. The springs/dampers could be swapped for different units depending on the budget and if you can stand the ride. That is a bit of spring rate for a non coilover (good coilovers ride better than standard shock/struts, takes too long to explain) so this will not ride like a Cadillac. It would be aggressive. $1885
D-Spec Struts/shocks $610
http://www.americanmuscle.com/tokico...trut-0509.html
H&R Supersport Springs $250
http://www.americanmuscle.com/hr-sup...ings-2005.html
J&M UCA $140
http://www.americanmuscle.com/adj-up...s-jnm2005.html
J&M LCA’s $100
http://www.americanmuscle.com/2005-p...ling-arms.html
J&M Camber Plates $210
http://www.americanmuscle.com/2005-c...er-plates.html
Scott Drake Bump Steer Kit $140
http://www.americanmuscle.com/scottd...teer-0510.html
Steeda Ball Joint Kit $160
http://www.americanmuscle.com/steeda...ll-joints.html
J&M Aluminum Panhard Bar $115
http://www.americanmuscle.com/jm-panhard-0509.html
Steeda Rear Swaybar $160
http://www.americanmuscle.com/steeda...ybar-0510.html
Most people would consider this a good track day setup. I call it just getting started. The springs/dampers could be swapped for different units depending on the budget and if you can stand the ride. That is a bit of spring rate for a non coilover (good coilovers ride better than standard shock/struts, takes too long to explain) so this will not ride like a Cadillac. It would be aggressive. $1885
#26
Camber bolts are fine. Most of the horror stories are told in third person anyways, you'll have a hard time finding an actual person. Racing the car doesn't count though. Don't get me wrong, I still recommend CC plates as well as I enjoy the adjustability. Also I would opt to get a different set of struts but that's just me.
Cam Bolts, make sure they're torqued to spec or they'll get their nick name "Crash Bolts".
You've implied it yourself - and it is not a "mistake" to choose the more secure method of camber adjustment. Just good common sense. If there's any mistakes here, it's half-strength fasteners in a mission-critical location with no listed restrictions on use (that I've ever heard of). Ford upgraded their OE bolts and at least one other component somewhere after the middle of the 2008 production run for a reason (and tweaked again since), so OP's car isn't even up to the level of Ford's first upgrade to these fasteners.
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 07-03-2013 at 11:38 AM.
#27
They're frequently told in the third person because the consequences of them not quite doing their job are far more serious than a little noise. Whether the installation was borked or the car was run hard/hit a really bad hole under braking/etc., hardly matters at that point. Most of the people who understand this at the gut-level do drive their cars harder than average, and have to assume that any random questioner also does - or might in the near future.
Having convenient adjustments does not mean that you always have to be tinkering with them. I set mine (Steeda HD strut mounts, FWIW) to my own camber specs over three years ago and haven't touched them since.
To spec means not past spec either. Overstressing those things is a really bad idea (unless what you want is a bunch of conversation piece paperweights for your office desk).
You've implied it yourself - and it is not a "mistake" to choose the more secure method of camber adjustment. Just good common sense. If there's any mistakes here, it's half-strength fasteners in a mission-critical location with no listed restrictions on use (that I've ever heard of). Ford upgraded their OE bolts and at least one other component somewhere after the middle of the 2008 production run for a reason (and tweaked again since), so OP's car isn't even up to the level of Ford's first upgrade to these fasteners.
Norm
Having convenient adjustments does not mean that you always have to be tinkering with them. I set mine (Steeda HD strut mounts, FWIW) to my own camber specs over three years ago and haven't touched them since.
To spec means not past spec either. Overstressing those things is a really bad idea (unless what you want is a bunch of conversation piece paperweights for your office desk).
You've implied it yourself - and it is not a "mistake" to choose the more secure method of camber adjustment. Just good common sense. If there's any mistakes here, it's half-strength fasteners in a mission-critical location with no listed restrictions on use (that I've ever heard of). Ford upgraded their OE bolts and at least one other component somewhere after the middle of the 2008 production run for a reason (and tweaked again since), so OP's car isn't even up to the level of Ford's first upgrade to these fasteners.
Norm
I'll keep you updated, keep the great ideas coming!
#28
I've replaced everything in the suspension on my car except the rear upper control arm. I recommend changing EVERYTHING if you want to make the car handle extremely well.
Unless they've redesigned it, DO NOT get the J&M aluminum panhard bar. Get one that has the adjuster positioned well away from the mounting bracket. I had one of those bars and you CANNOT adjust it while it's on the car.
Unless they've redesigned it, DO NOT get the J&M aluminum panhard bar. Get one that has the adjuster positioned well away from the mounting bracket. I had one of those bars and you CANNOT adjust it while it's on the car.
#29
I've replaced everything in the suspension on my car except the rear upper control arm. I recommend changing EVERYTHING if you want to make the car handle extremely well.
Unless they've redesigned it, DO NOT get the J&M aluminum panhard bar. Get one that has the adjuster positioned well away from the mounting bracket. I had one of those bars and you CANNOT adjust it while it's on the car.
Unless they've redesigned it, DO NOT get the J&M aluminum panhard bar. Get one that has the adjuster positioned well away from the mounting bracket. I had one of those bars and you CANNOT adjust it while it's on the car.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/jm-adj...rce=igodigital
The install was a breeze and the adjustments can be reached easily.
#30
Don't be afraid of getting a PHB that requires you to disconnect one end to adjust, either. Once you dial it in - which might take two or three attempts - it's very doubtful that you'll ever change it again (unless you change rear springs again).
An on-car adjustable PHB with the adjustment smack-dab in the middle going loose concerns me from a structural perspective for more reasons than just the fact that it went loose on you. A symmetrical appearance is not the hot tip here.
Norm
An on-car adjustable PHB with the adjustment smack-dab in the middle going loose concerns me from a structural perspective for more reasons than just the fact that it went loose on you. A symmetrical appearance is not the hot tip here.
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 07-06-2013 at 02:54 PM.