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New Suspension - Any thoughts?

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Old 06-29-2013, 10:35 PM
  #21  
VistaBlueFrank68
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What about the sway-bars?
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Old 06-29-2013, 11:15 PM
  #22  
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Name:  RearSuspNew_zps710889d3.jpg
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The silver parts are Lower Control Brackets for traction. I think you have the same BMR LCA?
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Old 06-30-2013, 04:07 PM
  #23  
pinn
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I did some test driving today and wow what a difference just the rears have made. I can't wait to get the fronts done now.
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Old 07-01-2013, 05:06 PM
  #24  
UPRSharad
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Originally Posted by pinn


I got the rears finished today.
cut the bump stops!
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Old 07-02-2013, 07:48 AM
  #25  
RoadRacer78
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I know this isn't what you asked for.....but, this is a good entry level suspension.

D-Spec Struts/shocks $610

http://www.americanmuscle.com/tokico...trut-0509.html

H&R Supersport Springs $250

http://www.americanmuscle.com/hr-sup...ings-2005.html

J&M UCA $140

http://www.americanmuscle.com/adj-up...s-jnm2005.html

J&M LCA’s $100

http://www.americanmuscle.com/2005-p...ling-arms.html

J&M Camber Plates $210

http://www.americanmuscle.com/2005-c...er-plates.html

Scott Drake Bump Steer Kit $140

http://www.americanmuscle.com/scottd...teer-0510.html

Steeda Ball Joint Kit $160

http://www.americanmuscle.com/steeda...ll-joints.html

J&M Aluminum Panhard Bar $115

http://www.americanmuscle.com/jm-panhard-0509.html

Steeda Rear Swaybar $160

http://www.americanmuscle.com/steeda...ybar-0510.html

Most people would consider this a good track day setup. I call it just getting started. The springs/dampers could be swapped for different units depending on the budget and if you can stand the ride. That is a bit of spring rate for a non coilover (good coilovers ride better than standard shock/struts, takes too long to explain) so this will not ride like a Cadillac. It would be aggressive. $1885
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Old 07-03-2013, 11:30 AM
  #26  
Norm Peterson
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Originally Posted by jayman33
Camber bolts are fine. Most of the horror stories are told in third person anyways, you'll have a hard time finding an actual person. Racing the car doesn't count though. Don't get me wrong, I still recommend CC plates as well as I enjoy the adjustability. Also I would opt to get a different set of struts but that's just me.
They're frequently told in the third person because the consequences of them not quite doing their job are far more serious than a little noise. Whether the installation was borked or the car was run hard/hit a really bad hole under braking/etc., hardly matters at that point. Most of the people who understand this at the gut-level do drive their cars harder than average, and have to assume that any random questioner also does - or might in the near future.


Originally Posted by VistaBlueFrank68
F**K the plates. Are you going to change them from day to day?
Having convenient adjustments does not mean that you always have to be tinkering with them. I set mine (Steeda HD strut mounts, FWIW) to my own camber specs over three years ago and haven't touched them since.



Cam Bolts, make sure they're torqued to spec or they'll get their nick name "Crash Bolts".
To spec means not past spec either. Overstressing those things is a really bad idea (unless what you want is a bunch of conversation piece paperweights for your office desk).

You've implied it yourself - and it is not a "mistake" to choose the more secure method of camber adjustment. Just good common sense. If there's any mistakes here, it's half-strength fasteners in a mission-critical location with no listed restrictions on use (that I've ever heard of). Ford upgraded their OE bolts and at least one other component somewhere after the middle of the 2008 production run for a reason (and tweaked again since), so OP's car isn't even up to the level of Ford's first upgrade to these fasteners.



Norm

Last edited by Norm Peterson; 07-03-2013 at 11:38 AM.
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Old 07-03-2013, 07:42 PM
  #27  
pinn
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Originally Posted by Norm Peterson
They're frequently told in the third person because the consequences of them not quite doing their job are far more serious than a little noise. Whether the installation was borked or the car was run hard/hit a really bad hole under braking/etc., hardly matters at that point. Most of the people who understand this at the gut-level do drive their cars harder than average, and have to assume that any random questioner also does - or might in the near future.



Having convenient adjustments does not mean that you always have to be tinkering with them. I set mine (Steeda HD strut mounts, FWIW) to my own camber specs over three years ago and haven't touched them since.




To spec means not past spec either. Overstressing those things is a really bad idea (unless what you want is a bunch of conversation piece paperweights for your office desk).

You've implied it yourself - and it is not a "mistake" to choose the more secure method of camber adjustment. Just good common sense. If there's any mistakes here, it's half-strength fasteners in a mission-critical location with no listed restrictions on use (that I've ever heard of). Ford upgraded their OE bolts and at least one other component somewhere after the middle of the 2008 production run for a reason (and tweaked again since), so OP's car isn't even up to the level of Ford's first upgrade to these fasteners.



Norm
Great info everyone. I stopped into a local Mustang garage and the owner highly recommended new bolts also. They are already on order from AM.

I'll keep you updated, keep the great ideas coming!
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Old 07-06-2013, 12:41 PM
  #28  
jsimmonstx
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I've replaced everything in the suspension on my car except the rear upper control arm. I recommend changing EVERYTHING if you want to make the car handle extremely well.

Unless they've redesigned it, DO NOT get the J&M aluminum panhard bar. Get one that has the adjuster positioned well away from the mounting bracket. I had one of those bars and you CANNOT adjust it while it's on the car.
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Old 07-06-2013, 02:16 PM
  #29  
pinn
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Originally Posted by jsimmonstx
I've replaced everything in the suspension on my car except the rear upper control arm. I recommend changing EVERYTHING if you want to make the car handle extremely well.

Unless they've redesigned it, DO NOT get the J&M aluminum panhard bar. Get one that has the adjuster positioned well away from the mounting bracket. I had one of those bars and you CANNOT adjust it while it's on the car.
I went with this one:

http://www.americanmuscle.com/jm-adj...rce=igodigital

The install was a breeze and the adjustments can be reached easily.
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Old 07-06-2013, 02:25 PM
  #30  
Norm Peterson
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Don't be afraid of getting a PHB that requires you to disconnect one end to adjust, either. Once you dial it in - which might take two or three attempts - it's very doubtful that you'll ever change it again (unless you change rear springs again).

An on-car adjustable PHB with the adjustment smack-dab in the middle going loose concerns me from a structural perspective for more reasons than just the fact that it went loose on you. A symmetrical appearance is not the hot tip here.


Norm

Last edited by Norm Peterson; 07-06-2013 at 02:54 PM.
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