Whiteline sway bars-which mounting holes to use?
#1
Whiteline sway bars-which mounting holes to use?
I've got Whiteline sway bars coming and would like recommendations on which mounting holes to start with. I've got a '13 GT with Koni yellows, Steeda camber plates and springs. It's not a daily driver and I want to set it up for road course use. I was thinking 3rd stiffest hole (out of 4) for rears and middle for front. Any suggestions?
#2
So I just mounted mine today.
There is a video by Whiteline that explains their hole methods. Pretty much you have the SWAYBAR, Holes 4 3 2 1, and then the OUTER END. Their "advertised" strength is achieved at hole #2. The more you go towards the swaybar (holes 3 & 4), the stiffer you make the sway bar. Of course using hole #1 makes it softer.
In their 4-hole setup, each hole = 1mm of strength. For Ex: with hole #2 being 33mm on the front, hole #4 would be 35mm, hole #3 would be 34mm, etc.
I would start with hole #3, and move up if needed. Their tower mounts are supposed to help with corner weights if you ever start messing with that. That will fine tune the bars after you figure out your hole setting. The bars themselves are already stiffer than factory, even at Whiteline's stock settings. It just takes a few runs to figure out what is best for you.
There is a video by Whiteline that explains their hole methods. Pretty much you have the SWAYBAR, Holes 4 3 2 1, and then the OUTER END. Their "advertised" strength is achieved at hole #2. The more you go towards the swaybar (holes 3 & 4), the stiffer you make the sway bar. Of course using hole #1 makes it softer.
In their 4-hole setup, each hole = 1mm of strength. For Ex: with hole #2 being 33mm on the front, hole #4 would be 35mm, hole #3 would be 34mm, etc.
I would start with hole #3, and move up if needed. Their tower mounts are supposed to help with corner weights if you ever start messing with that. That will fine tune the bars after you figure out your hole setting. The bars themselves are already stiffer than factory, even at Whiteline's stock settings. It just takes a few runs to figure out what is best for you.
#4
I'm liking mine as well. I don't know if it is the sway bars, the upper control arm, or a combo of both, but I am able to take a corner pretty fast and punch it without anything getting upset. It is going to be a lot of fun to try out at the next autocross.
#6
Thank you for your inquiry!
Best bet would be to drive the car up a set of ramps and adjust them accordingly.
Please be sure to torque the end links to 45-55lb/ft.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Best Regards,
Jan Pasia
Technical Service Coordinator
#7
I had my installer adjust the firmness of the sway bars for me...but here is what Whiteline replied on one of my inquiries...they are good at emailing you back within 24 hrs:
Thank you for your inquiry!
Best bet would be to drive the car up a set of ramps and adjust them accordingly.
Please be sure to torque the end links to 45-55lb/ft.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Best Regards,
Jan Pasia
Technical Service Coordinator
Thank you for your inquiry!
Best bet would be to drive the car up a set of ramps and adjust them accordingly.
Please be sure to torque the end links to 45-55lb/ft.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Best Regards,
Jan Pasia
Technical Service Coordinator
I set mine with weight on the suspension to 50lb/ft, so it sounds like my guesstimate was on the money
Whiteline makes amazing parts, and their customer service is excellent in general, I just wish they'd hire more/better tech writers so their documentation would match the level of the rest of their game.
Last edited by Torch_Vert; 06-11-2013 at 11:44 PM.
#8
They worked well at the autocross with the 3rd hole. One of my nemesis in a turbo RX-7 was beating me until the recent event. He placed a lap time and thought no one would beat it. After about 3 runs, I beat him by .2 when normally I would be behind by 1.5 seconds. Granted when he went back out and raced his *** of (he spun after the finish from driving so hard), he bettered the time.
Been taking it on the back roads to work as well, and i can take turns easily around 60-65mph that the factory would only able to do 50 at the most. I would say it is like driving on rails, but I think lowering the car after these bars would be more like it. So more like 75% driving on rails.
Been taking it on the back roads to work as well, and i can take turns easily around 60-65mph that the factory would only able to do 50 at the most. I would say it is like driving on rails, but I think lowering the car after these bars would be more like it. So more like 75% driving on rails.
Last edited by Boaisy; 06-11-2013 at 07:46 PM.
#9
They worked well at the autocross with the 3rd hole. One of my nemesis in a turbo RX-7 was beating me until the recent event. He placed a lap time and thought no one would beat it. After about 3 runs, I beat him by .2 when normally I would be behind by 1.5 seconds. Granted when he went back out and raced his *** of (he spun after the finish from driving so hard), he bettered the time.
Been taking it on the back roads to work as well, and i can take turns easily around 60-65mph that the factory would only able to do 50 at the most. I would say it is like driving on rails, but I think lowering the car after these bars would be more like it. So more like 75% driving on rails.
Been taking it on the back roads to work as well, and i can take turns easily around 60-65mph that the factory would only able to do 50 at the most. I would say it is like driving on rails, but I think lowering the car after these bars would be more like it. So more like 75% driving on rails.