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What are the next set of mods to do for HPDE?

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Old 06-11-2013, 02:15 PM
  #11  
UrS4
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It's thunderhill raceway in willows CA.

Another question:

Lots of people are saying to swap pads out at the track or right before the event. I was under the impression that swapping pads without replacing or turning the rotors wasn't a good idea, as during the bedding process, its the laying down of brake pad material on the rotor surface which creates the friction against the pad. Or is this not true and I can just swap away as long as I rebed the brakes pads each time?
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Old 06-11-2013, 06:44 PM
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UPRSharad
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I'm thinking tires & wheels, BBK, and a UCA.
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Old 06-11-2013, 07:08 PM
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What's the rationale for the UCA uprsharad?
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Old 06-11-2013, 09:46 PM
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notsofast
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I think an adjustable rear UCA will allow you to set and adjust the pinion angle if you have a lowered car and a one-piece aluminum drive shaft.
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Old 06-11-2013, 11:39 PM
  #15  
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I already adjusted my pinion angle with my adj LCA.
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Old 06-12-2013, 06:31 AM
  #16  
moochman4life
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Tires and pads are all you need right now, my man. Then more track time with an instructor to show you a faster line. You'll be amazed at the difference with just that.
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Old 06-12-2013, 08:00 AM
  #17  
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I hear you on the track time, but with regards to the pads, you're recommending swapping to dedicated track pads (HP+ or HT-10), without changing rotors or resurfacing them?
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Old 06-12-2013, 12:48 PM
  #18  
tigercrazy718
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Originally Posted by UrS4
I hear you on the track time, but with regards to the pads, you're recommending swapping to dedicated track pads (HP+ or HT-10), without changing rotors or resurfacing them?
bumping this because im interested in this answer as well
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Old 06-12-2013, 01:51 PM
  #19  
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I did exactly that just this past weekend at VIR. No issues at all. Matter of fact, I did the swap before the 3.5 hour trip. No issues on or off track. No warping. No fading. No odd movements. As soon as I get my vids up on YouTube, I'll share.
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Old 06-12-2013, 02:43 PM
  #20  
Derf00
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Originally Posted by UrS4
Issues on track: brake pads had good initial bite but heated up fast and had faded bad. Tires held up remarkably well. I've had them for 6 years and they were at 60% life and now after three events at 35%. I ran them cold at 40 psi and the shoulder blocks showed no signs of rolling over, they squealed but did fine. Last event was in 110 degree heat with track temps near 150, tire temps near 190-200. Car had pegged the water temp once but then stayed in the upper high after I ran the heater full blast while on track, sweated my **** off! Also got a slight hum from DS at 120 mph.

So in summary, brakes, cooling, and tires are what I see as the biggest problems.

Brakes: Different pads, brake duct cooling, different rotors, BBK?
Are you/were you on stock brake rotors? I warped my stockers twice here in the AZ heat although the first time I had them turned which simply makes them more prone to warping under the same conditions.

Just curious.
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